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5. Hiss

5. HISS

If none of the above works, try this. The HISS antenna inside the black ring surrounding the ignition keyhole needs to talk to the transponder inside the key. If the communication is not proper the fuel pump won't be turned on. The ring is fixed using 2 star/Phillips nut from the bottom. Remove that and give it clean using some electrical cleaner and also clean the area around the ignition keyhole where this ring is going to be seated when you put it back.

Pics attached.

The symptom for my bike was intermittent. Sometimes the fuel pump will prime some time doesnt. Sometimes the fuel pump cuts off while running (dangerous).
Anyway, friend of mine had the same problem and he tipped me. Saved few hundred dollars by fixing it myself.
 

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So I have an issue with electrical that I need some help with. I took the subframe off of my 09 to paint it and some other cosmetic stuff. When I put everything all back together I put the key in my bike, turned it and there was NOTHING! No lights no tach jumping, nothing. I have checked continuity on all of the fuses under the seat and they all ohm'd out ok. I actually replaced them all just for grins. I have checked to make sure that I didn't loosen the grounding terminals when I removed the sub-frame. All of the wires seem to be tight in all of the connectors and I don't see any wires that I have inadvertently crushed or anything. Voltage on the battery is good. I checked it at home and took it to Autozone for a double-check. I have an ignition switch coming since I know that RRs are pretty prone to issues with them. I have done nothing with the BAS at this point. My next step I think is the BAS. After that...? Any thoughts??
 

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If the speedometer powers on, it's not your BAS. If speedometer does not power on, it's the ignition. Follow the wire from the ignition and jump the brown pin. It's safe. And there is no diode in the ignition as some people falsely say.

Correction: maybe not the switch, but a loose connection. Check connectors, and continuity. I believe it's ignition related. But probably not the switch.


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So I have an issue with electrical that I need some help with. I took the subframe off of my 09 to paint it and some other cosmetic stuff. When I put everything all back together I put the key in my bike, turned it and there was NOTHING! No lights no tach jumping, nothing. I have checked continuity on all of the fuses under the seat and they all ohm'd out ok. I actually replaced them all just for grins. I have checked to make sure that I didn't loosen the grounding terminals when I removed the sub-frame. All of the wires seem to be tight in all of the connectors and I don't see any wires that I have inadvertently crushed or anything. Voltage on the battery is good. I checked it at home and took it to Autozone for a double-check. I have an ignition switch coming since I know that RRs are pretty prone to issues with them. I have done nothing with the BAS at this point. My next step I think is the BAS. After that...? Any thoughts??
Did you check the 30amp main fuse that's attached to the starter relay?


Also, I can't see how removing your subframe would ruin your ignition switch. Let's not be silly here
 

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Hey fellow riders,
so here is my problem that i cant find any info on anywhere. anywhere. its a 06 600RR
when i turn on the ignition the fuse (20amp) next to the battery (on red wire) pops right the way, i think its the fuel injection fuse. the only time it doesn't pop is when the BAS is disconnected. i replaced the BAS and still the same. The fuse pops when the kill switch is flipped to on. when the fuse pops the bike cranks but no fuel injection prime. im thinking short to ground somewhere in the BAS wiring but cant find any diagrams. or something in fuel injection system where and what should i check?
help please, track season will soon start.
thanks all
bump
 

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Hey fellow riders,
so here is my problem that i cant find any info on anywhere. anywhere. its a 06 600RR
when i turn on the ignition the fuse (20amp) next to the battery (on red wire) pops right the way, i think its the fuel injection fuse. the only time it doesn't pop is when the BAS is disconnected. i replaced the BAS and still the same. The fuse pops when the kill switch is flipped to on. when the fuse pops the bike cranks but no fuel injection prime. im thinking short to ground somewhere in the BAS wiring but cant find any diagrams. or something in fuel injection system where and what should i check?
help please, track season will soon start.
thanks all
bump
Have you checked the fuse rating you are using is the correct one?
 

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Hey there. I am from CULS Prague formula racing team, We're competing in Formula student in our car we use CBR 600 RR engine from year 2007. My problem is the engine doesn't have a spark when we try to start it. We have a fully programable ECU wich can perform spark plug test. And when I run this test spark plugs fire fine, so it shouldnt be bad ground or something like that. So I thought about Crankshaft position sensor (wich is also CAM sensor in this case) going wrong, but the ECU software is saying that it has signal and when I mesured it with a multimeter it also had a signal. I was wondering, is there any other sensor that would cause engine not to have a spark ? Thanks in advanced :)
 

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Hey there. I am from CULS Prague formula racing team, We're competing in Formula student in our car we use CBR 600 RR engine from year 2007. My problem is the engine doesn't have a spark when we try to start it. We have a fully programable ECU wich can perform spark plug test. And when I run this test spark plugs fire fine, so it shouldnt be bad ground or something like that. So I thought about Crankshaft position sensor (wich is also CAM sensor in this case) going wrong, but the ECU software is saying that it has signal and when I mesured it with a multimeter it also had a signal. I was wondering, is there any other sensor that would cause engine not to have a spark ? Thanks in advanced :)

Did you bypass the kill switch? Not the ignition, but the red switch from the right handlebar; that could prevent the engine from firing. On the bike, it also stops the fuel pump from priming


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Yes, both kill switch and fall switch are dissabled in ECU, accualy today I sorted it out (kind of :D ). Somebody played with ECU tunning and the setting of timing synchronyzation was completely messed up. Now the engine has spark, only not in precisely right moment so it still doesn't start. But I think I'll sort that out soon with measuring crank sensor with osciloscope. Anyway thanks for quick reply and help :)
 

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Re how to troubleshoot a bike that wont start

Thank you man for the amazing troubleshooting tips. The pain from the bike not starting gently eased off when I read your post and realized that my situation was not a big deal and would be easy to figure out. It actually ended up being shoddy wiring getting pinched from the fuel pump relay. Bike is back up and running and again, thank you very much. I am going to learn a lot here
 

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Anyone think they can give me a little advice?

I have a 15 600RR that was dropped in a low side crash. Only real damage was a whole in the clutch cover but the bike still ran. Changed the cover, put everything back in place correctly (gears, washers, etc) and now it wont turn over, it just clicks as if the battery is dead. I've since replaced the battery, starter, and starter relay/solenoid and still have the same problem. Fuel pump primes, lights come on, horn blows, just no start at all. i have the bike in neutral with the switch on. I can also spin the engine with a ratchet so it isn't locked up. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP I'M MISSING ALL THE PERFECT RIDING WEATHER :(
 

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Hi there, Read your post and followed your process but my bike wont' still start.
Below is what I've done so far. Your Comments are appreciated. TY.

600 RR Riders,
New member and First time posting. I hope someone out there could help me with this issue before I tow my bike to the dealer. I was surprise to see how many CBR 600 RR owners are also tackling this “WON'T START" issues after having no symptoms of this issue. It works fine and after a few minutes or hours, the bike will not start? It sucks. Luckily I encountered this prob in my garage.
I own a 2012 CBR 600RR and recently came about into this problem after just performing basic maintenance, Oil Change and Air filter change. What puzzled me is, the bike started as soon as I was done with the tune up. No problems, check for leaks and shut it off. The next morning, I could not get it to start anymore.
Turn on key, I have plenty of gas in the tank, could hear the Fuel pump priming, the Relay’s clicking, Kills switch ON, Bike in Neutral, but will not turn over.
Started reading and researching this “WONT START” complains in the web and there were plenty. Using my lap top, Volt meter, 12 volt battery and Bike Manual, I decided to trouble shoot the issue. Removed all the plastics / covers and performed the items below: Plan to do the highlighted items this weekend.
1) Checked the Battery and it was time to replace. Bought Brand New Battery from Dealer same model, got it tested (Pass) –– Still Did not turn over / start.
2) Checked all the fuses, the 4 relays, (energized each one for “clicking and continuity), checked the 30A fuse, integrated to the Starter relay harness, also energized the starter relay and check for continuity, Tested OK
3) Check the Diode, using volt meter and manual procedure – Tested OK
4) Checked the Bank angle sensor using manual procedure – Tested OK
5) Checked the stand switch using manual procedure– Tested OK
6) Checked the Neutral switch using Volt meter and manual procedure– Tested OK
7) Removed each spark plug and checked for “Spark” – Plenty of spark to each plug tested Ok
8) Checked the PGM-FI Unit connectors for bent pins and made sure connectors are securely lock in place.
9) Checked and made sure kill switch is “ON” DURING each attempt to start- Does not want to kick over.
10) Checked compression to each spark plug. Work on it this week end.
11) Replaced spark plugs with Factory IMR9E-9HES. Work on it this week end.
 

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Did you try cranking it with the throttle wide open? If you started it then shut it off immediately you may have just flooded it.
 

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I’ve done 95% of everything listed. Fuel pump still doesn’t prime. Does prime when bench tested. There is no power going to fuel pump relay. I tried to “jump the kill switch” by connecting the black and bl/wh wires together. Nothing. It is a 2006 model. Ignition only has two wires. Starter cranks and cranks. Help pleaseeee hahaha
 

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I’ve done 95% of everything listed. Fuel pump still doesn’t prime. Does prime when bench tested. There is no power going to fuel pump relay. I tried to “jump the kill switch” by connecting the black and bl/wh wires together. Nothing. It is a 2006 model. Ignition only has two wires. Starter cranks and cranks. Help pleaseeee hahaha


Ground the other negative on the coil side of the fuel pump relay. If the pump runs try a known good ecu.
 

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I’ve done 95% of everything listed. Fuel pump still doesn’t prime. Does prime when bench tested. There is no power going to fuel pump relay. I tried to “jump the kill switch” by connecting the black and bl/wh wires together. Nothing. It is a 2006 model. Ignition only has two wires. Starter cranks and cranks. Help pleaseeee hahaha


Ground the other negative on the coil side of the fuel pump relay. If the pump runs try a known good ecu.


Would I do that by splicing a ground into it? Do you happen to know which wire that is by color? The fuel pump relay is four wires. Brown and brown with white. Black and black with white. (If I remember correctly.)
 

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So I've done everything I've been advise to at the tart of this feed

1 I have power to my headlights and cluster but not the 3rd headlight but that's never worked.

2 fuel pump is working and the kill switch is okay.

3 BAS is tested and okay.

4 side stand sensor is good.

5 neutral sensor is okay.

6 ignition has no power to any plugs. New plugs but still nothing. Tested for power to coil packs and nothing!!!!

7 compression is okay.

8 I have also a new battery service carried out.

Please someone help me....
10
 

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I've been finding that an alarming amount of people are having trouble with bikes that won’t start and most of the threads consist of "My bike won’t start, help". It's extremely difficult to troubleshoot a bike with that little bit of info, but if you follow this guide, you can likely find the problem on your own, or at least get enough info to help us help you.

There are a number of things that can prevent a bike from starting. Almost all of them are electrical. Your first step will be to grab a manual. You will need it to complete the following troubleshooting steps. Your next step should be to develop a systematic approach to your troubleshooting and use known tests (service manual) to rule out possibilities. If you just start shooting in the dark, you may get lucky, but you may never find the answer. I’ve provided ways to test with and without special tools, in many instances here but to do things properly you will need to get a few things.
-Digital Multimeter, capable of testing resistance, voltage and continuity.
-Compression Tester
-Test wires w/alligator clips.

1. Power
This one should be obvious, but your headlights should come on, gauge cluster lights up and POSTs. If you find that none of these things happen, check your fuses. If your headlight fuse is either absent or blown, your bike won’t start. Charge/replace your battery. If you have a multimeter available test your battery for 12v. If it’s low, charge it. If its 0, replace.


2. Fuel Pump and Kill Switch
Is your kill switch set to the "RUN" (down) position? Turn the bike on and flip the switch off/on. You should hear your fuel pump prime. If you do, your kill switch works. Make sure to leave it in the "RUN" position for the rest of this guide. As soon as you turn your key to the "ON" position your fuel pump will make a short 3s whining sound if the kill switch is "on". This is your pump "priming" and sending fuel to your injectors. If this doesn't happen bypass your kill switch by disconnecting the white 7-pin connector on the right side of the bike near the frame (next to the red 2-pin connector). Using a piece of wire and two small alligator clips jump the pins for the White/Black & Black wires on the bike side of the connector (not the switch side). This will bypass your kill switch and should engage your fuel pump as long as your key is in the "ON" position.

If your fuel pump still doesn't prime, test your fuel pump relay (video below) and bench test your fuel pump. To do this, using two wires with alligator clips on both sides connect one to each of the pins inside of the brown connector on the bottom of the fuel pump. Green is ground, Brown is positive. Connect the green to the negative terminal on your battery (known good 12v power source), Brown to the positive terminal. Your fuel pump should prime. If it does not, replace. It's best to do this with the main fuel line coming from the fuel pump disconnected on the injector side and routed into a small container. Once the pump primes you should see a strong steady stream of fuel. If you do not, replace.

Note: Do NOT touch the two clips to each other, they will spark, and spark/fuel does not mix. This test is easiest when you have two people, with the fuel tank and battery removed from the bike completely.


3. Switches and Sensors
Okay, so your kill switch and fuel pump work fine but your bike still won’t start… what now? Your Bank Angle Sensor (BAS), Neutral Position Indicator and Kickstand sensor can all prevent your bike from starting.

To bypass your BAS remove the sensor located underneath your 3rd Eye Headlight and using a wire with alligator clips on each side, connect one clip to the pin for the green wire and the other to the Red/Blue wire on the harness side of the sensor.

Next you’ll need to disconnect your kickstand sensor. The connection can be found by tracing the harness going to your kick stand. All you need to do is disconnect it.

And your Neutral Position Indicator sensor will need to be tested using the method shown in the attached picture.

Once all 3 sensors are bypassed/tested, try to start the bike. Make sure you’re in neutral when you do this. If your bike starts, it’s all a matter of the process of elimination. Put each sensor back 1 at a time and try to start the bike after. When it fails, you know what your problem is. Replace.


4 Ignition, Fuel & Compression
Okay, still wont start? Now what…

There are three things required to make a motor run. Ignition (spark), Fueling and compression. We’ve already done a majority of the testing for fueling in step 2 so we will bypass that for now. Its still possible that your injectors are clogged, but I’ve never seen it happen.

To test ignition, remove each spark plug and visually inspect the electrode. If it’s wet, you fouled your plug and it will need to be replaced. One spark plug at a time, Connect the ignition coil (boot) to the plug and hold the grounding stripe to the frame and attempt to start your bike. Make sure you’re holding the very top of the boot and no part of your (gloved) hand is touching the spark plug itself. Your plug should immediately spark multiple times to the stripe. Hold the starter for about 1-3 seconds each so that you can make sure you get good spark. If you don’t get spark on any particular spark plug, try swapping out the ignition coil with the coil from a different cylinder. You can see where I’m going with this. Replace the ones that need it. If you don’t get spark from any coil, make sure your kill switch is still in the run position and make sure each of your main wiring harness connections for the coils and the primary harness connection are nice and clean/tight.

I like to test compression as I test spark for each cylinder. It’s easier not having to R&R spark plugs multiple times. A compression tester is $20 from Harbor Freight. Keep in mind this is a very cheaply built tester and the design is poor. This style tester has the check valve at the gauge instead at the end of a pressurized hose. Because of this design, the tester will add volume to the cylinder which means your readings will be significantly lower than what’s indicated in the manual. The manual indicates 178psi for each cylinder. These test kits will usually indicate around 120psi. To test compression, thread the tester into the plug hole using the appropriate adapter, hold the throttle at WOT and attempt to start the bike. Give it a chance to turn over a few times to build compression, and you should see the values on the gauge go up. Once it steadies up (usually around 3 complete cycles) you should have your results. You're looking for around a 10% uniformity between each of the cylinders. If your results are significantly below the expected values, take your bike to a shop, you will need motor work. Most likely a blown head gasket or piston rings. If you've gotten to this point, you've likely already seen issues with the bike overheating, losing coolant or other temperature related problems.


That should pretty much cover like 90% of all of the “My bike won’t start threads”. Questions or comments, let me know. Or if I missed anything.

Note: for some of the electrical connections (the female ones) you will need to use a small probe or solid copper wire stripped on each end to bridge the connection.

Always use insulated tools and a gloved have when touching wires.

 
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