Honda CBR 600RR Forum banner

41 - 60 of 86 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #42
For installing the retaing cotters;

I used an small magnetic electrical flat head screw driver to hold it in place. The manual said to use grease to hold it in place while installing, but I am a visuall and hands on type of person and like to "feel" what I am doing. Once in place, I used an non-magnetic flat head to disconnect it.

Installed the second one, allowing gravity to aid in the installation.

With the spring compressed, with this type of tool, it is kinda of in an wedge. So, with slight pressure, I just slightly moved the spring to allow the cotters to fall into place naturally.

Afterwards, you can see them kinda floating in position with no pressure holding them in.

Finally, I eased off the spring valve compressor and they eased into the correct position. If they are correct, you will feel them slide into position with no resestance. If they make a metallic sound or clunk, just take a look, decompress and check your installation a second time.

I hope this helps you guys for any builds. If not, let me know and correct me if I am wrong or if you guys have better experience.

Time to continue... ?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #43
So, tonight... I hade a major defeat. Got to valve 16 and I was missing (1) cotter retainer! Have no idea where it went. I am not sure if it got stuck somewhere or dropped. I had accountability of it before the install. Not sure if the little Kiddos' got a hold of it...

I am completely devastated! Hahaha might have to spend a lot of $$$ for just one of the smallest, crutial parts of the engine! I am definitely loosing sleep and my coworkers will hear me complaining all day over this! Ugh, this sucks!!!! Hahahaha
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #45
Finally got that "misplaced" valve cotter retainer...

Installed the HRC Inner/Outer Valve Springs, along with all valves. Those guys were definitely harder to compress compared to the OEM springs...

Moved onto and installed the Cam Tensioner B, bolt, sealing washer...
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
Referencing the HRC Kit and OEM service manual;

With the No. 1 Piston at TDC, got the HRC Camshafts Installed. Everything was replaced, and tourque in steps to OEM/HRC specs. Also, checked the valve/piston clearance and was within spec.

I did notice, turning the crank after install, there was more resistance than turning it over then before. Pulled the clutch cover and check all chains and cam tentioners... all looked well and with no binding. Could maybe be an adjust with the cam tensioner?

Anyone on here have that same experience?
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
If you have stiffer valve springs and higher lift cams of course it will be harder to turn the crank.
Thank you, Wibbly! Now, that you mentiond it... makes sense. Hahaha lack of sleep and frustration at work kinda took common sense out the window. Hahaha

Felt like after I read your comment, felt relief and my life did a 180. Hahaha Thanks, man!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #57
Closed throttle vs fully open;

Installed a 50mm reel to mess around with for some straight runs. Man, she snaps open quickly! I cant wait to try out different reels on the track and see the different throttle responses. Straight old school. Damn those "throttle by wire" guys! Hahaha What rider aids!? Hahha
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #59
Pulled of the clutch cover, springs and places were still pretty within specs. Was a little interested in some HRC Clutch Springs to keep it simple, or an Slipper Clutch. Either F.C.C. or go full out on a Moto2 Suter (my dream clutch and cover!) Sometimes, I do get a little nerve-wrecked going from 155+ to a 45mph turn! Controling some throttle blipping and rear wheel wobble/sliding is pretty fun!!!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #60
I was thinking about stripping the OEM wiring harness or purchasing the full HRC electrical kit. The kit would cost a huge amount of $$$$... or create a huge headache, trial and error to strip the OEM harness.

Originally, I was planning on running a Powercommander/Ignition module with OEM ECU reflashed to remove all restrictions.

Wanted to strip and unplug all wiring from the harness, connectors and reseal the harness.

Items I was looking to remove;
- Right/Left turn signals,
- Headlights, Low/High/Position,
- Clutch Switch,
- Horn,
- Fan Motor,
- Sidestand Switch,
- Rear Left/Right Turn Signal,
- Rear Brake/Tail/License Light,
- Rear Brake Light Switch,
- Pair Control Solenoid Valve,
- Front Brake Light Switch,
- EGCV,
- Ignition Switch/Key,
- HESD
- Turn Signal Relay,
- Headlight (hi) Relay,
- Fan Motor Relay.

I am assuming, if I remove all of these, the bike would not run becuase the ECM is programmed to look for and run all of these sensors/connectors?? Also assuming if I remove these items an ECU reflash would be needed??

Any of you guys have any experience with stripping the OEM wiring harness. I did some searches but some of the topics die off. If I have read correctly, the HRC kit provides tunning to the following;
- Ignition
- Fuel/Air for all primary/secondary injectors,
- Shift Indicator,
- Pit Limitor (through the turn switch)
- Quickshifter (through the horn switch) $$$$
 
41 - 60 of 86 Posts
Top