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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm putting the header on once again, and after fiddling with it for what seemed like forever, I finally got it to line up fine. I put crush gaskets in, put the header in place, and after applying locktite, slowly started screwing on each nut. After screwing each one onto the stud, I began to tighten each one a little bit at a time making sure that each pipe sets in evenly. Once I got each one tightened down all the way, I began to pull out my torque wrench when I noticed that all my flanges are bent to ****. Seriously, what the ****. Is it supposed to be fucked up like this? Every picture of the header I've ever seen showed each flange nice and straight and flat against the mounting points. I read a post somewhere on this forum a little bit ago, and someone said something about on a Yosh header you don't need crush gaskets.

It almost seems like the crush gasket is either not crushing, it's obstructing the header from seating all the way, I don't have the header sitting right, or I don't need crush gasket at all. Here's a picture of what I'm talking about?

Does this look normal?
Can I go ahead and just torque the **** and call it a day?

I mean damn, it's not going anywhere, but it definitely doesn't look pretty.

 

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i think you overtightened it, my aluminum flanges are never bent like that.
 

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the flanges don't need to sit flush with the mounting points. If you tq'd it properly, which only calls for 9ft/lbs, it would never get tightened that close to the mounting points. There is always some gap, even on the factory headers. I realize the flanges for the Yoshi seem a little thicker, but I do believe you overtightened it. Did you even use a tq wrench?

I never used a tq wrench on mine, and just hand tightened until I felt resistance and then stopped and I'm sure that was more than 9ft/lbs. There is a gap between the flange and mounting point.

Did you check for any air leaks? If so, how are you checking? By sound? By feel? Those pipes get hot ridiculously fast, but it may be best to feel each port separately, then turn the bike off, let it cool down and then check the other ports.
 

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BRO!!! thats no bueno! 9 ft/lbs can be accomplished by sleeping babies! u deff overtorqued! next time as a frame of reference...if u feel like youre tightening more then what strength u use to twist the throttle...youre prob torquing more than 9ft/lbs...looks like u need new flanges!
 

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Ouch!

Def overtightened! :bootyshak

Don't get too stressed about it though, this one will go down in the "Damn I'm dumb" book, but you had good intentions so it's really nothing to hate yourself for.

New flanges!

Also, a nice little FYI for exhaust leaks, have someone take a damp rag, cover the tailpipe real quick while you feel for air leaks. You'll have a few seconds to feel around for any hot air blowing out wherever it may be leaking.:cruising:

We've all done something involving bikes/cars that was retarded, don't sweat it!
 

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or press it flat again using a hydraulic press.
 

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WAY OVER TIGHTENED!!! Your header bolts are even bent if you look close, the one on the right especially.
 

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Also, a nice little FYI for exhaust leaks, have someone take a damp rag, cover the tailpipe real quick while you feel for air leaks. You'll have a few seconds to feel around for any hot air blowing out wherever it may be leaking.:cruising:

We've all done something involving bikes/cars that was retarded, don't sweat it!
there has to be an easier way to check. A leak, esp. by the headers, would almost always have to give off an audible noise I presume. Physically feeling for a leak would be hard because that's one of the most inaccessible areas. You could get your hands over the top of the ports, but what about the bottoms?
 

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for reference (another member's setup). You can see the gap between the mounting points and the flanges, which is the normal gap.

 

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if they are tight and it doesnt leak, it honestly wont matter.
the flange only holds the header in place against the exhaust ports.

but for future reference Id say you should bust out the torque wrench a bit earlier.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Those flanges don't come off the header. They were bent before so I just put them in a vise and bent them straight with a pair of pliers. I was having a hard time tightening some of the nuts down, because some of the old ones were a little corroded on the inside. If it's hard to screw on in the first place, it would be hard to torque it correctly.
 

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so you just hand tightened right? That should be fine in most cases. Most importantly just keep an ear out for any leaks... If its sound, leave it and ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Eh, I just pulled the header off. Now I have a few quick questions. Do I seriously need to get new crush gaskets? I just ******* bought those ones that are in there. One of the studs came out when I was unscrewing the nut. Do I need to apply loctite to both the stud and the nut? Should I be apply loctite to any of the nuts at all?
 

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apply lock tite to the stud and anti seize on the nut.
and no, you should be fine with the gaskets you have, I usually get a few uses out of them.
 
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