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Discussion Starter #1
:banghead:so my friend with the stunt bike decided he wasn't taking it out till next week until he gets some new parts.. soo my thirsty ass raised the idle on my stock 04 honda 600rr i've done it before and it was always a little bit harder to turn than i thought it needed to be.. and now its at about 3.5k rpm and i can't lower it!:help:
 

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The idle screw on our bikes SUCK BALLS! They get kinked b/c they travel intertwined with all the other hoses/electrical under the gas tank. The only way I have ever gotten it to not break or get messed up was to install a new one and put axle grease on the threads of a new one and install it. It has worked for about 3 years now with no problems.

My guess is that yours is kinked and about to break if it already has not. Lift the tank and get some needle nose pliers and try to turn the idle down by turning it before it goes into it's housing (in between cyclinders 3 & 4 behind the electrical connectors for the injectors if my memory is correct). Then if it's not broke or kinked take the cable out and lube it with some grease. It's a pain in the ass, but don't want to look like a fool when the bike is idling at 3.5K at a light!
 

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thanks for the help, okay so heres where im at.. yesterday i took off the gas tank, and saw all the wires and what not i followed the idle cable and saw the little metal screw but it was impossible to get to unless i took off the airbox and fuel lines and all that which i have no idea how to do. Where and how much is a new cable? or.. how exactly do i take it off to lube it?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
also, please define kinked, when i took off the tank i pretty much had it seperated from all the other wires i straigtend it to where it was just the metal screw and wire to me
 

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I was able to fix it without removing the airbox or fuel lines, but it is a pain in the ass! Just try to get a thin/long needle nose pliers and you can only turn the thing like a few centimeters at a time. Your hands will get tired but it will eventually come out. Just try to look at the threads to make sure your backing it out instead of driving it in farther.

From the looks of your avatar you have a 03/04 model, if so, it's part 4... $20 plus shipping. If there is other random OEM parts i would buy them when you buy a new cable b/c the shipping will be the same. (Ron Ayers usually takes about a week and a half from ordering to arrival)

http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/1/Make/Honda/YearID/45/Year/2004/ModelID/6627/Model/CBR600RR/GroupID/279977/Group/THROTTLE_BODY_03-04
 

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Discussion Starter #6
great assistance thanks im gonna go for the turning with the needle nose, right now it looks like i can see a lot of threads. what i want to do is bring it down to see less threads correct? and if i fix this! im NOT touching that damn idle ever again
 

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Haha, the only way I made sure I backed it our correctly was get another bolt and have the threads matching the idle screw and see which way the bolt backed out of a nut. I did that b/c it is a pain turning the screw so much.

When mine was "kinked" the wire withing the black hose was bent and that usually signals it will break soon. If you buy a new one like I did, I just rerouted the entire "hose" below all the other stuff under the tank. also try not to have a big bend right before the housing under the throttle body
 

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Discussion Starter #8
this is a pain in the ass.. got the bike apart.. cant get the screw to turn, i tried taping the needle nose for grip. now gonna spray it but i really hope id idnt bend teh thread when i squeezed it. if i put a new wire.. how do u detatch the wire? sorry for allt hese newbie questions
 

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you need a new one before you can take it all the way out FYI!!

but to turn down the idle try and turn it before the threads so you don't mess up the threads. the entire piece with the treads should come out when you install the new one
 
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