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Discussion Starter · #1 ·



I put in this indicater today. It is a datatool digital indicater and the install went very smooth. I only had to take the plastic piece off that goes between the gas tank and the front fairing. The one that is on the top, right ubder the handlebar. Once this is off there is a blue wire connector that can be taken apart to remove the front upper fairing and all the wires are in that bunch. I spliced in on the bike side of that blue connector so that I can remove the upper fairing without any trouble. The indicater is on the dashboard, which stays when the upper fairing is removed. The wire connections are as follows.

INDICATER BIKE
black-------------ground----------green
red---------------power-----------white/green
yellow------------tach-------------yellow/green
green------------speedo----------pink/green
brown------------neutral----------lt green/red
orange stays open for learning

The set up was very easy and goes pretty quik with the bike on the rear stand. Over all am very happy with the investment and instalation. I hope this helps somebody.
 
G

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I want one too...but I recently saw it advertised as now having a "plug-in" version so that it is no longer necessary to splice any wires? Anyone have any experience with these? I think they are a little more $$ but may be worth it!

Anyway, I would be interested in a group buy if someone started one!! :mrgreen:

H
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
this is were mine came from
I got this one from a friend that didn't want to take the time to install it. Paid 50 for it.http://www.datatool.co.uk/
 

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I have one on my 97 Suzuki Bandit. It was a major pain to install. Not only did all the half fairings have to be off but the instrument cluster required disassembly in order to splice into and then solder all of the connections. Then magnets are required to be epoxyed into the Allen Head bolts of the right front rotor. A pickup sensor must be attaced to the right fork leg and positioned 15mm away from the tops of the rotating magnets placed in the rotor bolt heads. The wire from the pick up is run up the fork leg to the site of your splices and tied in. A programming wire must be attached and long enough to use while sitting on the bike.

It takes a long piece of road to then program it (in absence of a stand or rolling road)---you must run thru all of the gears while maintaining 2000 RPM touching a ground with the programming wire when prompted.

To be honest, I installed it early last year and never bothered to program it for the reasons above--but it works correctely 80% of time unless you lug a gear (never happens?) but once you cycle back to nuetral it self corrects..

It's way trick and I am glad cosp600rr had such an easy time of with the RR but I would wait for the Plug-in model----I never like to splice into wire harnesses.


CHAZ "RR" :salute:
 

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CHAZ, From what your telling us it looks like your bike was getting it's speed from the tires. The 600RR gets it from the engine rpm's. That's why you have to get a speed cal if you change gearing. With your old bike it goes off the tire speed so you wouldn't have to use a speed cal since the bikes tires would be spinning at the same speed.
 

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Your pretty close. It's calculating with the following inputs--Nuetral, Tach pluse & Wheel rotation. In any given gear with engine at a constant 2000 RPM wheels will be at X Rpm and it calculates this ratio to it's Readout.

Matt or cosp600; am I to understand that the magnets in the front wheel are not required on the RR----

If this is true, great---But I would still wait for the plug-in!

CHAZ "RR"
 

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Nope, no magnets on the front wheel. The sitre doesn't list our bike as being on the list for a plug in. We might have to get everyone interested and write them to tell them that there is interest and hopefully they will make them.
 
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