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Discussion Starter #21
Yeah if in doubt get a second opinion. You might find they say it's ok? Brakes are always a faff to get right. Took me a while to get mine sorted. The first few bends at Oulton Park on brand new pads, new discs and freshly bled brakes were definitely scary! 馃槀
Hahah yea i dont want my brakes to fail when i hit a corner
 

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2018 S1000RR Blue/White/Carbon 2015 R3 Red/White 2006 CBR600RR (blacked out)
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I apply pressure with the lever then open the valve on the caliper and let the fluid go into a container
don't just squeeze the lever once and open the bleeder. Squeeze multiple times before opening the bleeder and make sure you hold the lever firm until the bleeder is closed. This is why having someone to help makes it much more effective
 

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Discussion Starter #23
don't just squeeze the lever once and open the bleeder. Squeeze multiple times before opening the bleeder and make sure you hold the lever firm until the bleeder is closed. This is why having someone to help makes it much more effective
Yes ive been doing that, but alone :)
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Ive made a new video, in the first few seconds you can see me gently pulling the lever in, there is no pressure. Shouldn't there be pressure faster? And later you can see me trying my hardest to pull it in
 

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If i try hard enough i can still pull the lever to the handlebar
I assume you're not able to go out and ride to verify how the brakes feel? from the second video your front brakes look good to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I assume you're not able to go out and ride to verify how the brakes feel? from the second video your front brakes look good to me.
Well i can! But the bike is completely clean! Took it apart to clean everything, the weather is **** right now and they spray salt on the roads for ice so dont really want to ride
 

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Well i can! But the bike is completely clean! Took it apart to clean everything, the weather is **** right now and they spray salt on the roads for ice so dont really want to ride
When you do ride it once the roads are clear just take it easy the first few times braking. I did notice a fair difference in brake application following installing braided lines.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
When you do ride it once the roads are clear just take it easy the first few times braking. I did notice a fair difference in brake application following installing braided lines.
But you think the lever play is fine? If i press real hard it can still hit the handlebar
 

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But you think the lever play is fine? If i press real hard it can still hit the handlebar
you have shorty pazzos installed, they're adjustable yeah? you sure you don't have them adjusted all the way down? I had to adjust mine all the way down to properly hold the lever when doing the overnight bleed
 

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Discussion Starter #31
you have shorty pazzos installed, they're adjustable yeah? you sure you don't have them adjusted all the way down? I had to adjust mine all the way down to properly hold the lever when doing the overnight bleed
Nope the are as fay away from the handlebar as they can be!
 

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until you can ride it just the visual from the video isn't going to be very helpful. even just roll the bike in the garage and see how little or how much effort you need and where in the travel does the bike actually stop
 

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You understand that air is lighter than brake fluid yeah? Therefore when the master is fully depressed and the return port is opened inside the master, gravity does the rest. Air bubbles will rise to the top of the lines and enter the reservoir eliminating the air stuck in the system.

when you pull the lever and zip tie it, the system is CLOSED. if a fully depressed lever left the system open then every time you pulled the lever it would fill the reservoir instead of applying the brakes. the port that the reservoir fills the system from sits right in front of the plunger when the lever is released, as soon as you pull the lever, the plunger travels past this port and closes it off from the braking system, allowing you to build pressure and extend the pistons in the calipers.

what happens when you ziptie the lever is the air is able to migrate INTO THE MASTER, but not the reservoir. if you're lucky, when you release the lever the air will move into the reservoir, but it isn't a sure thing. if you just push back the pads after releasing the lever, it'll guarantee whatever air collected in the master migrates into the reservoir.
 

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I apply pressure with the lever then open the valve on the caliper and let the fluid go into a container
Do you close the bleed nipple BEFORE letting the lever back out?

The suggestion that the master cylinder may be faulty is also a possibility. I bought a rebuild kit for another bike, fitted it, but it was worse than ever. The internal housing had worn down, so I had to bin the master cylinder.

I really don't believe the lever should come back to the bar like in your video if all is well. Do you have the lever adjusted to it's furthest setting AWAY from the bars? That might help. Also is that lever a new addition or one you've had fitted for some time? Decent make like Pazzo, or cheap Chinese knock off?
 

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I would rebuild the master cylinder (miking the bore of course) and calipers both. Even a Brembo MC that would be good also. Those shorty levers aren't doing anything good at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Do you close the bleed nipple BEFORE letting the lever back out?

The suggestion that the master cylinder may be faulty is also a possibility. I bought a rebuild kit for another bike, fitted it, but it was worse than ever. The internal housing had worn down, so I had to bin the master cylinder.

I really don't believe the lever should come back to the bar like in your video if all is well. Do you have the lever adjusted to it's furthest setting AWAY from the bars? That might help. Also is that lever a new addition or one you've had fitted for some time? Decent make like Pazzo, or cheap Chinese knock off?
Yes i lve been bleeding it correctly, they are cheap chinees knockoffs, i have them on the bike for like 1 month now
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I would rebuild the master cylinder (miking the bore of course) and calipers both. Even a Brembo MC that would be good also. Those shorty levers aren't doing anything good at this point.
What do you mean with miking the core? english isn't my native language
 

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Oke thanks!
What was the result of rolling the bike in the garage and seeing how much pressure you need to stop the bike and where in the brake lever travel does the bike stop? Just because you can squeeze it hard and get it to touch doesn't mean you have a problem, on the street at speed with that level of force you could be locking up your front end. however if it takes you that much force and travel to even slow the bike down then yes you have a problem. Until you're able to ride the bike or even get it rolling at a decent pace and slightly apply the brakes to see where in the travel the bike begins to stop and how much pressure is required to do so will you know if your perceived problem translates to an actual issue
 
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