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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up a flawless 03 600RR bout two weeks ago. I pull over the other day and the thing won't start back up.
I brought it to the dealer, they replaced the battery.
So I asked why a brand new bike that I've been riding non stop would need a new battery in two weeks.
Dealer says I need to be driving at higher RPMs. He said the battery disengages at low RPMs and doesn't charge.

Anyone hear of this ? What RPMS do you usually cruise at while in a gear ?
Someone also told me never keep the key "ON" with the bike not running, the battery will die fast.

thanks
 

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First of all, let me be the first to day, welcome to the site!!!
Make sure in the future to ask these types of questions before going to your dealer, you'll find a lot of smart people on here.

yah,
that stealership is just trying to bank money off of you. However, what he did say about having the bike in the "ON" posiiton for a while is true. If you turn your ignition on, especially with the headlights on brights, you will burn that battery out quick quickly, so I definatley recommend not turning it on until you plan on starting it. However, burning out the battery this way... you'd simply be able to charge it up with little harm to the battery, it's definately not going to keel over and die.
 

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I usually cruise around at 7-10k rpm I think. I'm sorry I cant help with the problem as I havent heard anything bout rpm and batteries. But yes u don't want to keep the bike light on if your not moving.
 

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riding with the brights on is typical, I just don't do it at night, it is definately bright...

That being said... I typically cruise around at 7-10k so that if I need to react to a situation, I'm able to get up and go pretty easily. I wouldn't really ride around at much lower than that, as it'll take a while longer to spin up. Besides... all the fun starts above 10k anyways :D
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for all the feedback....i'll keep it up in the RPMs...

i like this site alot, been lurking on it and reading a bunch of posts for bout two weeks, so i decided to join the family.

If the battery dies again, I'm gonna rip the hairpiece of the service managers head.
 

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The battery was probably dead from the bike sitting on the dealership floor for a while. I agree with everyone else - dealership is full of it. I would rec buying a trickle charger though - replacing the battery out of pocket is really expensive (I paid $115 for my new battery) and trickle chargers/conditioners make the battery last longer and perform better.
 

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I bought a brand-new 03 last December and the battery had to be replaced in April (even though I hooked a battery tender to it over the winter). It probably was not maintained properly as it sat on the showroom floor.

I also hooked a voltmeter to my bike and went for a ride - it registerd 14V at the battery terminals at any RPM above 3000-3500. If you are sitting in traffic idling you "could" have a problem, but you don't need to start riding on the highway in 3rd gear with the revs at 9000 to keep your battery charged.
 

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Resident Leg-Humper Females Beware
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it charges above 5k rpm. the '03's were also notoious for having weak/bad chargers, so that could be an issue, plus as others mentioned, not being maintained while sitting in the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Well the dealership dropped a new battery in for no charge. They should have done that before selling it IMO.

I think I'll get a trickle charger, cause alot of people recommend those.
Hopefully I won't have any more problems. I just hope it was the battery and not something more which will continue to drain the battery.

Then they have to look at the next problem. My fuel gauge is all wacky, doesn't stay sold at any point, so I only know how much fuel i have by using the trip odomoter..
Any thoughts on that ? Sensor in the tank I'm guessing...
And I thought getting a used bike from a dealer would be niiiice and easy
 

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Can't go wrong if they put a new battery in for free... I completely agree that they should have covered that cost, however, not all places are down with that, so consider yourself fairly lucky
 

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The batteries will die fairly quickly if you leave the key on and its not running...it will still take a bit of time though, probably well over an hour or so. But there have been circulating rumors that the 03's had bad/weak charging systems, and a few other electrical anomolies. If it does it again, i would take it back and DEMAND that they look at yor charging system...not just feed you a line a bull about not running the RPM's high enough. You really wont need a trickle charger unless you dont ride very often or more than a week or two inbetween rides. If you ride it at least a couple times a week, you should be fine and the battery should last indefinetly.
 

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somebody correct me if i am wrong, but i think if it happens again you should replace the rectifier and get one off of an 04' as the 03' rectifiers are the problem with the charging system. i am most certain i read that somewhere on this site. but forgive me if i am wrong. i have an 03 with 9k miles and have never had a battery problem but i also never use the highbeam and never leave the key in the on postition.
 

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BlueBlur said:
it charges above 5k rpm. the '03's were also notoious for having weak/bad chargers, so that could be an issue, plus as others mentioned, not being maintained while sitting in the dealer.
No No NO! Please stop telling people this. The 5,000 rpm your quoting is the test range to verify the voltage (15.5v) w/ the high beams on. But as RRdvark has pointed out, if the bike is running the R/R is charging! Period!

B1KESLDDR said:
somebody correct me if i am wrong, but i think if it happens again you should replace the rectifier and get one off of an 04' as the 03' rectifiers are the problem with the charging system. i am most certain i read that somewhere on this site. but forgive me if i am wrong. i have an 03 with 9k miles and have never had a battery problem but i also never use the highbeam and never leave the key in the on postition.
You my friend have been doing your homework!


NickJames, Don't wait for it to happen again. Take it back to the dealer and have them inspect/verify the Regulator/Rectifier BEFORE it damages the battery again. Check to see if it has an aluminium shield istalled around it. If it doesn't make them test the R/R and replace it if needed.

And unless you let the bike sit for weeks on end save your money on the trickle charger. This is just a band-aid for the real problem. Your basically buying another charger to do the job for the one Honda designed. Why? Make them fix the problem once and for all.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
NewRedRider said:
NickJames, Don't wait for it to happen again. Take it back to the dealer and have them inspect/verify the Regulator/Rectifier BEFORE it damages the battery again. Check to see if it has an aluminium shield istalled around it. If it doesn't make them test the R/R and replace it if needed.

And unless you let the bike sit for weeks on end save your money on the trickle charger. This is just a band-aid for the real problem. Your basically buying another charger to do the job for the one Honda designed. Why? Make them fix the problem once and for all.
Nice, Nice, Nice....will do. :)
 

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Did everyone forget that BATTERIES DO, from time to time, DIE?

Ya know, they become chemically unable to hold a charge anymore.

If the battery was charged at one point or another (new batteries are stored with the acid stored seperately from the lead elements), and was then allowed to sit unmaintained, normal exchange of electrons with the bike and the air would eventually render the battery chemically impotent.
 

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It's a pretty common problem with the '03. There is no heat shield seperating the regulator/rectifier from the exhaust headers. The regulator/rectifier gets too hot and the bike won't start. Most start again after everything cools.
 

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The problem with the R/R is when it overheats it will start fluctuating the voltage to the battery. Eventually the spikes damage the cells in the battery. That's why so many people are going through battery after battery without solving the problem. That's why I keep saying to test the R/R AND the battery.
 
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