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Discussion Starter #1
Just replaced the stator, and R/R in my bike.

I did leave my key on for 15-20 minutes in accident. But the bike started right up. Drove it about 40 minuetes and it died on me when I was on the highway.

So any thoughts on just a junk battery or what?


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Did it die because of a dead battery?

If so, then because it started and then later died while you were riding there is definitely a problem with your charging system. I very much doubt that it is a bad battery. Obviously the bike then drained what was left in the battery which means the system does not supply enough to keep all the systems requiring power running and re-charcharge the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I had a buddy come with his truck, SHut the truck off, and put jumper cables on. and it wouldn't start. the battery wouldn't charge at all with the cables being on there. Brand new stator, and R/R are in the bike. I can take the Stator case off and look to see if any of the coils are dark.
 

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If you say the battery does not take charge it might be a dead cell - charge ot overnight and test it in the morning - best will be to get it load tested at a battery store.

You can also test your charging system to ensure it functions properly - there are lots of threads on here with details and specs on how to do that.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's a f4. So it's has carbs. I have a feeling I may have flooded the piss out of it when it was in the process of dieing. I've flooded it before, and had it wear it wouldn't start for about a hour because of that.

All fuses are golden. I aways check those first. And aways carry handle gulls with me.

I just tried to start te bike with full choke and it just was about to turn over, if it had 1 more second of batter.

Gunna try to get my ma to grab a charer while she's out, and charge it over night. Would it be best to charge it, then take it to a oriellys or something right away?


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Discussion Starter #9
And I don't think its the Regulator. Because it would be popping me 30 amp, and wouldn't turn over. It wants to turn over, just no juice from the battery. I'm thinking when the Regulator blew, It blew the Stator, then the battery went next. Since then I've replaced the R/R, and stator. and road about 300 miles on the dot, before the battery died on me.
 

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You can pick up a cheap Battery Tender JR charger at Walmart for $23.00 IF you order it online and pick it up there. They will not honor that price if you print it out and take it to the counter with you.
They don't have the greatest reputation anymore though, check out the one star reviews

I've been using the CTEK 0.8 for a while now and kinda like it. [ame]http://www.amazon.com/CTEK-93-56-865-Black-Battery-Charger/dp/B006CQ9BMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1399250786&sr=8-1&keywords=ctek+0.8[/ame]


You might want to check how much voltage your battery is holding before you hook it up because most automatic chargers require the battery to have a certain amount of voltage in them before they'll start to charge. If they fail to meet the minimum voltage the chargers will throw fault codes at you or tell you the battery is no good. Also different brands and models require different amounts.

My old Battery MINDer requires 10.5V minimum, Battery Tender JR requires 3V minimum, my CTEK 0.8 requires 2V minimum.
 

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Yes to either of them. The small AUTOMATIC chargers are chargers/maintainers for either a car battery or a motorcycle battery. Just make sure it states automatic in the description. If you ever need to charge a car battery they will take a long time to charge.
There are also small 1amp MANUAL chargers but that's not what you want for a maintainer.

Most people correctly use them on a small battery monitoring the process, when it gets to a fully charged state they promptly remove it. I use them for raising the low voltage of a battery to meet the required charge level of an automatic charger, then I make the switch to an automatic charger to finish it off.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yeah that's what my old man and I think. Gunna go take my moms brand new Harley out tomorrow and go get me a battery haha. Any suggestions on what type of battery is better if there is a better/worse brand/type


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The stock Yuasa (VRLA) are good batteries but expensive. Another option would be a Shorai battery that is a lot lighter.

If those are out of the price range look for a AGM or VRLA type.
With my first bike I needed a battery and ended up getting an Xtreme (AGM) from Batteries Plus. It lasted a few years till I let it sit without a maintainer on it. As always, do some your research.
If you can hear fluid sloshing around in the battery it's not one you want.

At any rate keep a small maintainer on the battery when not in use, it will live longer.
 

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a dead R/R would not necessarily pop the fuse.

you can test the R/R once you get the bike running by measuring the DC output. No reason why it shouldn't jump off another vehicle unless you don't have the leads on well enough.

sounds very much like a new battery is in order. don't buy a cheap one nor a conventional vented lead acid. sealed lead acid are fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
He drives a duramax, and didn't trust that his truck would pump to much into my battery and completely fry it to bits, so I had him shut his truck off an only left the jumper cables on for maybe a minute. When it was connected, my Dash was completely lit to it's fullest. wouldn't start, only beause I flooded the piss out of it on accident when it was shutting off on me.

Just spent 120$ on a r/r and 100$ on a new stator. So I'm 99% sure that can't be the reason. But I will test it when I get everything running.


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Yep, that's a cheap battery.
 
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