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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys,
I just purchased my first bike . 2005 CBR 600 RR. It has higher km then some others that were for sale but this one was always garage stored , had paperwork for regular maintance and came with extras ( stock exhaust with 2 brothers racing slip on installed, KandN installed shorty clutch and brake levers along with factory set, factory mirrors installed and 3 other sets, heated grips and 3 others, tinted windscreen and stock, stock signals front and back and aftermarket installed, rear seat cowl cover and Honda travel bag, frame sliders and bike pit stands) New chain, sprocket, fork seals, brakes . Passed safety check without needing a single thing . Which is all good . I'm just curious on things to look out for ? The bike has almost 60k on it but you wouldn't know it . I'm wondering about fluids? Should I change them ? ( Coolant, etc) all the hoses look mint , no cracking . The suspension feels like it was adjusted at some point and wondering if it's best to set it to factory set up , or would you go as far as to setting it up for your weight and driving style ? Also just over all things or tips for a higher km bike to keep it the way she is . Also one more question ... I understand and have read many articles on clutchless shifting... My question is for the downshift ...mine seems to slide into gear effortlessly on the downshift that it seems way way to easy ...not that I make a lazy habit of it .but could this mean a problem upcoming ? Or something mod wise that was installed to aid this manouver?? Like it does it without blipping the throttle or just barely doing so. I don't pretend to be perfect at it but it never grinds or engages hard at all , keep in mind just for normal rev range coming to a stop downshifts... Not higher speed shifts like with clutchless upshifting.. sorry to ask a few options about 2 opposite end of the spectrum topics but there on my mind is all. Thanks for any input

- Shaun
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2005 RR
 

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Welcome! 馃憢

Looks like you got great bike!!! Pretty much brand new!

If it came with service records, you can go with regular fluid-change schedule. Don't need to change suspension settings too much. Ride it lots to get used to it, then make minor adjustments here and there.

As for clutchless downshifts, I've found trick is to not let up throttle like for clutchless upshifts. if it changes smoothly, you're doing it right! Nothing to worry about.

Have fun!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Well, I ran into a issue ... Dead battery like 0 volts . So I bought I new one , and a multimeter. Installed the battery tested it while the bike was off 13 volts...turned it on ...12 volts....hit the headlight and revved it up to 5000 and it went too 12.3 then when I let of the gas it went back down . Now I'm assuming that means it's not getting a charge so it's the stator and/or rectifier regulator?? I ordered both parts anyways but couldn't get OEM Honda parts till October where I am from so aftermarket is only option. After installing both parts should I be good 馃憤? I really don't want to have to hunt down a electrical gremlin , not too fun and not very cost effect. P. S it looks like the original 17 yr old stator and rectifier so at 60k km I'm assuming replacement is just a normal thing. Any input?
 

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Test your stator's AC output at idle and 5000rpms. It may be perfectly OK and RR is problem. They face hard-life because old shunt-circuit drives stator @ 100% and dumps unused power to ground. Generating tonne of heat in both components.

See this post for solution: Stator keep going out
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Thanks, part came in on the weekend so I put it in myself . It ended up being the plug connecting the rectifier to stator . It was pretty black . The stator itself wasn't in that bad of shape . Looking at other riders previous pictures during their replacement process, mine was a 6/10 but since I had everything apart I changed both parts for piece of mind . So far so good , only rode her around for about 2 hours but starts up no problem . I'll check the Volts with my multimeter when I'm done my midnight shift tonight . Thanks for the help and the link!
 

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Keep an eye on that connector. It's black from being burnt from overheating due to amount of current it needs to pass. At some point, you'll want to replace connector with better specs than stock: tin-coated instead of bare-brass terminals.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Great....the stator and rectifier worked not even a week about 60 km then died on me again I haven't taken it apart to see which part failed but obviously one of the two did or the plugs connecting the parts together.I don't understand how the original part lasted so long and this aftermarket part lasted 6 days I just want to have it fixed properly and not have to go through this again regardless of what I have to pay to do it ...I just want to pay it get it over with and enjoy riding. Paying $4700 a year upfront for insurance and having the bike sidelined is even more of a piss off... Now I'll have to find a proper aftermarket part, since OEM isn't available till October...then pay and wait for shipping , then pay again for labor just to hopefully "rectify (lol)" this problem ....not pleased
 

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Sorry for your troubles but I have a question. You stated in your first post the bike has heated grips and the charging systems on these bikes are pretty fragile when modified. Have you tested the grips to see if they're leeching power from the battery or otherwise interfering with the charging system? It's pretty common when people add HIDs that things start going bad at the main harness ground. It's pretty common I'd search the forum so you can assess for yourself if your bike has a similar issue.

Great....the stator and rectifier worked not even a week about 60 km then died on me again I haven't taken it apart to see which part failed but obviously one of the two did or the plugs connecting the parts together.I don't understand how the original part lasted so long and this aftermarket part lasted 6 days I just want to have it fixed properly and not have to go through this again regardless of what I have to pay to do it ...I just want to pay it get it over with and enjoy riding. Paying $4700 a year upfront for insurance and having the bike sidelined is even more of a piss off... Now I'll have to find a proper aftermarket part, since OEM isn't available till October...then pay and wait for shipping , then pay again for labor just to hopefully "rectify (lol)" this problem ....not pleased
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Heated grips not hooked up ... No HID or anything ...only thing I did after buying it was replacement of the little 3rd headlight bulb which I can't see drawing that much power to burn out those parts . Literally nothing was changed or added to the electrical system .
 

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A lot of aftermarket parts are crap. Importers specify lowest specs possible to maximise profits. Many aftermarket parts are bad right out of box and needs to be tested. Especially electronics since it's not easy to determine quality and functionality just by looking. I once got box of 100 assorted fuses. They all looked perfectly fine, but over HALF were defective and didn't conduct electricity at all!

Solution here: Stator keep going out
Common fix is to snip out that burnt stator connector and solder wires straight across.




I prefer to improve upon OEM specs whenever I repair anything. Otherwise you're making exact same mistakes Honda did. I'll go through bike and replace bare-brass terminals in many connectors with tin-coated versions.



Before they've had chance to corrode, increase resistance and burn up.



Intro to moto wiring: MO Wrenching: How To Properly Splice Wires

 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Could the problem be a bad ground at the bikes battery ? I looked at the cable and it didn't look burn or tarnished . It did have a small heat mark on it but nothing the screamed "here's the issue" . I wasn't sure where that ground cable was mounted and/or you could beef if up at all with a larger gauge wire and if that would help cool things down at all as well?? This time I'm going to take it to the dealer and have them do the repairs . I do t want to be out riding and get stuck somewhere from a electrical gremlin that I'm not experienced enough to diagnose yet. The only thing I've changed again was the 3rd tiny headlight. It was out at the time out purchase when the bike performed fine as I knew it. After I replaced it that's when everything went wrong ... I just have a hard time believing that little bulb caused a draw on my battery enough to kill my bike . Mind you there was some moisture in the lens as some water had gotten past the gasket. That and I wash my bike by hand once a week at least ...but they're not meant to self distruct in water either.
 

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Little bulb didn't do anything. Read those links listed in solution thread: Stator keep going out . Exact same amount of current is passing through stator, stator wires, stator connectors, RR and RR wires regardless of whatever you're powering on bike. That's because due to shunt-circuit design, stator & RR will be running at 100% all the time.

Negative cable is perfectly fine as it's super heavy-duty thick gauge. Most current demands on it is starting engine, 60-90 amps needs to be carried by that cable between battery to starter. Since you were able to start engine, negative cable is perfectly fine and did its job.

Main problem you overlooked was replacing burnt stator connector when you did stator & RR. You can clean it all you want, but unless you took terminals out of connector and sanded inside & out to remove corrosion, it was still there. When you replaced stator + RR, these new parts were able to send more current through that connector than before and continued to burn it.

Dealer most likely won't be able to fix it because they can only use factory OEM parts. They will be restoring your bike to exact same configuration as just before it burnt up. Real solution is to not redo Honda's design mistakes over and go again, but to UPGRADE those factory parts that keeps on wearing themselves out and burning up.
 

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There may still be other issues with your charging system other than stator and RR. Do "The Drill" troubleshooting process here: VFRdiscussion - The Drill (charging system troubleshooting).

Here's Electrosport's more detailed troubleshooting guide referenced in The Drill: Electrosport - Fault Finding Diagram.pdf

You will have better chance of fixing this problem than any dealer mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I did read what you posted before olny difference with mine issue was it went bad the plug to the bike was fine , plug from stator to RR was the bad one , which got replaced and looks to be fine still now from what I saw without taking fairing off yet.(that's today's job)... So you're saying it's most likely the other plug to the bikes harness? Well where do I buy a replacement plug at lol I'm sure it's not that simple ? Seems to me hard wiring is a good solution but a final one , bypassing the plug altogether leaves no other option if that didn't work no way around the fact I'd be out 2 harness plugs , therefore 2 more parts correct? Sorry to ask I just don't know if there available at a electrical supply place or something or you cut it out ,take out the guts ,replace with better connections,re wire and re plug in? Or like I said before just hard wire.

Just saw your other post , I'll read through the diagram ... I just want it to be fixed by me or whoever can do it right . I'm just afraid dealers just start replacing parts hoping it fixes the problem and not knowing what is really is and like you said before just making the same mistake Honda made ..but it did last 17 years before it broke ... I'm not owning this bike for 17 more years so there's that too keep in mind also that maybe OEM parts though not perfect ,outlast the bikes lifetime with me. Then again I hate passing something on knowing a potential issue could occur to someone else like it is too me right now . Guess I have some thinking and reading to do and not at 4:51 am ...I need to sleep . Thanks man
 

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Mystery deepens....

Should do some testing and post numbers. It's unlikely that both stator and RR went bad at exact same time. Replacing both then introduces 2 additional unknowns into system. So now we have 4 unknowns that needs to be tested to see which is good and which is bad. I forgot part about battery voltage = 0 and replacing battery. You may have short causing parasitic drain when bike is off and draining battery.

1. put battery on smart trickle-charger for 24-hrs. Battery voltage with everything off = ???

2. battery voltage during cranking = ???

3. battery voltage at idle = ???

4. battery voltage at 3000rpms = ???

5. turn bike OFF, measure battery voltage = ???

6. measure resistance of windings on old & new stators. A-B, B-C, C-A. ohms = ??? (6 different readings).

6. wait 3-hrs after #5, measure battery voltage = ???

7. wait 6-hrs after #5, measure battery voltage = ???


Unfortunately, you inherited bike with highly modified electrical system which may have any number of unknown errors and faults in it. Dying battery and RR are just symtoms if these faults, they're victims, not cause of issues themselves.

At this point, I recommend putting wiring back to 100% stock condtion:
  • inspect harness from end-to-end, look at every cm of every single wire all 360-degrees around for damage or modifications. Repair damage and revert any mods found back to 100% stock condition
  • remove heated-grips and all its wiring and switches
  • remove aftermarket winkers and any ballast resistors and flasher-relays. Put OEM winkers back on with original harness connectors

So many problems like yours start with modifying the wiring. It may sound simple at first, "Oh let's just replace winkers with LED". WTF WHY??? They're not any brighter than stock and doesn't make you any more visible or safer, doesn't make bike faster. Only causes problems like this. Bike worked perfectly fine when leaving showroom floor, and it will again when wiring is reverted back to 100% stock condition with all stock factory OEM components. In process of reverting back to stock, you'll most likely run across wiring issue that's causing these problems.

If harness connectors had been hacked off to install aftermarket parts, you can restore them by re-installing factory connectors: Corsa-technic : Lighting connectors


btw - post some fotos of original stator connector that burnt, along with wiring of heated grips and aftermarket winkers.
 
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