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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

I have a 2003 Cbr600rr. The chain and sprockets were quite bad and not changed for a while it seems (had the bike 8 months myself). There was very large ingress of grease built up all over.

The bike came with a new DID 525 chain. I purchased renthal 16t front and standard 525 rear sprockets.

Watched the videos and tutorials on YouTube and followed everything.

However I've now got a knocking sound from around the front sprocket area.

Searching hasn't found a definitive answer so far. I feel quite down about it now :(.

Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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Welcome! I've heard what you're describing and it's possible you have the rear wheel mis-aligned or you have too much tension on the chain. How much chain slack did you measure after install and what was your method for re-mounting the rear wheel?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hello Mr. Cannon,

Thanks for the warm welcome.

It was within the 1 3/8 as described. However I couldve measured from the wrong place.

Whilst the bike was up on the stand I rolled the wheel onto a wooden block so that it was aligned with the gap for the axle pin to go through. Aligned the brake caliper, tightened everything down to 83 ftlb.

Lubed the chain and was extatic. Until I turned it on and heard this dreaded sound. It is still.on the stand by the way so I'm not sure if this has any effect on it overall.

Just so heart crushing to end up in this situation. :(
 

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Remove the front sprocket cover and rotate the rear tire with your right hand.

When the chain slack is correct it should just touch the plastic chain guide on the underside of the swingarm.

Check your chain for any frozen links.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hello guys,

Some videos/pics to assist in diagnoses below:
Black Font Recreation Indoor games and sports Wood

Motor vehicle Automotive tire Rim Auto part Automotive exterior

Liquid Automotive tire Fluid Automotive wheel system Electronic device

Publication Font Material property Vehicle Book

Tire Liquid Automotive tire Bottle cap Fluid


The old sprockets and chain I've cleaned about 80% - they were really bad and still are filthy. It's why I decided to do a complete change.

I've also added a photo of the oil used just incase that has anything to do with the problem.
 

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Well, honestly the 40w oil is probably still better than chain wax. But you actually need 80-90w gear oil. I use Lucas brand gear oil but any 80-90w gear oil will do.

What we can't see is the alignment of the chain with the sprockets. Take a picture from the rear looking forward. We can't see the spacing inside the front cover or the chain slack.

Take a video of you rotating the chain by hand so we can hear how bad the noise really is. It may be that you just don't have enough oil on the chain yet. Get some gear oil and an old cotton hand towel. Put 2-3 Tbsp of oil on the folded rag. Grab the chain with your left and with the rag. Rotate the tire with your right hand by pulling DOWN to make sure the chain pulls away from your hand and does not pull your hand INTO the sprocket set. Continue to add oil to the rag as needed and rotate the chain until it gets noticeably quite. You won't have oil dripping off all over the floor and you'll have a perfectly oiled chain in just a few minutes.

If you bought the correct chain and sprocket set and you have it aligned, adjusted, and oiled properly then you shouldn't be having noise issues. Make sure your chain is not binding or rubbing on the case next to the front sprocket. Make sure your chain guide is installed.
 

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I should have been clearer. You don't need to run the bike.

But, I think I see your problem. Your chain slack looks fine for now. Recheck it again after a few hundred miles. When you were showing us the chain slack you pressed up on the chain. Then you pointed to a link that is clearly binding. It might be your master link. I could see it before you even touched (@0:45) it but since you did it makes it much easier to describe. Get some 80-90w gear oil and apply it like I suggested. See if you can get that link to move freely.

You may have over-pressed the master link plates and may need to redo your master link.

 

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Hi thanks for the response. I've got some vernier calipers so will take some measurements of the link in comparison to the others.
Don't bother, it's definitely that link that's your problem. Redo it before you ride again.

Edit: Also, be very careful if you decide to touch any of the moving assembly while the bike is running. Personally I avoid it.
 

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it's very easy to over-press master-link, causing it to bind and make stiff link & noise.

Make sure tool is only pressing on pin on both sides and not on plates.
 
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Hello,

Manages to take some measurements.

Original factory link = 20mm

My pressed master link:

Middle 19.5mm
End: 19mm

The master link is 1mm more pressed than the factory links. Is this too much of a difference?
 
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