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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So this is a long overdue guide to installing Bazzaz Fi and AFM goodness on your beautiful, shiny, but not-quite-fast-enough 07/08 600rr. True to our Laz-y-man theme of the day, I will refer you to another DIY by paul rider http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=100185 with the first steps pertaining to ripping your poor baby apart to get to the good stuff...I was far too excited at that point to be taking pictures. Don't worry though, over the course of the installation excitement quickly fades to indifference, and soon after wallow and despair. With that, let's begin:



Along with all the cables, installation guide (so they call it), software and junk, Bazzaz is nice enough to include what at first may look like a warranty (hahaha right). It's more like a disclaimer, but that doesn't really do it justice.


It's damn near longer than the installation guide, and certainly more thorough. Basically it so completely removes Bazzaz from even grossly negligent liability resulting in death and a charcoal bike that if they sent you a Super Ninento ROM chip instead of an fuel injection control unit, you could have koopa's popping out the ass of your exhaust and it's your problem. That said, you gotta pay to play I guess and I am doing this in the interest of advancing science...much like the early Apollo astronauts. We all take risks.

Following paulrider's steps getting the gas tank and airbox out, I highly recommend completely removing the gastank from the bike (and don't forget to drain the fuel lines) otherwise you're constantly shouldering the tank, holding it with one hand, or even your head, as this Laz-y-man did. Don't make the same mistake. Entirely removing the airbox is also optional, I only took off the top two layers, which works fine but means getting to the lower injectors is like getting into the pants of your best friend's recently dumped ex. There's a lot of **** in the way, but persistence is the key.

Anyways, I started with the AFM module, and I'll skip over the putting of the sensor thingy into the exhaust pipe hole thingy. If you can't manage that I suggest one of those blocks and holes playsets with the triangles and circles so you can practice. I routed the wire around the front of the engine (since there was so much slack) along side some other wires



and put the amplifier nicely next to the battery:


This process is much easier than the Fi unit itself, which doesn't really fit anywhere, and while they say put it in the tail, the cable is so fat, honestly getting that and the iWin taillight harness through the left side between the subframe and tail fairing was one of the hardest parts of the whole damn thing...It all does fit.

Anyways, after the AFM unit is all hooked up, there remains one tiny problem: what the hell to do with this?

No...doesn't go there.


doesn't fit there.


Yeah right.

Ah **** it velcro the thing to the inside of the lower fairing. As a side note, please if anyone knows where the hell the AFM connection's little anchors are supposed to fit into, I'd love to know, it sure looks like it was made for some hole in the bike somewhere...

Next run the Fi cable harness loosely from the tail down the left side of the bike through the battery tray and into the area underneath the gas tank. The length of the injector wires make it pretty hard to install them in the wrong order if you run them from the left side of the bike as the instructions state. For you powercommander converts, don't forget the bike has 4 more injectors on top of the airbox!! Say what?? That's right!

Now, for the real reason I wrote this writeup, which are the 3 connectors that are not injectors or the wire taps that actually have accompanying photos in the install guide. The throttle position sensor, the speed, and rpm sensors. The TPS sensor at least is easy to find from the manual, which directs you to the left side of the throttle bodies, which is actually behind this whole big junction box:

(while you're at it don't forget to hook up the ground here)



Now, actually disconnecting this and installing the inline connections to this TPS sensor which is wedged between an engine case and delta-box frame...it's really your problem as I blacked out during the process and woke up by the side of the road with tequila bottle in my bloody and callused hands, with it all mysteriously connected.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
The last two are a little tricky, since Bazzaz asks you to connect up the "speed" and "rpm sensors," which as far as Honda is concerned don't exist. In fact, the speed sensor is the "VS sensor" and sits cleanly out in the open on top of the transmission case:



As for the RPM sensor, I just took a wild guess and figured there's nothing else on the bike that would work for this than the CKP, or crank position sensor. Which is the black one mounted nicely over on the right -back side of the airbox:



That should be everything, go over the injectors once more to make sure that the males and females are all the way in and clicked. The OEM connector that plugs into the Bazzaz female is especially tight and goes in farther than you would think, make sure it all clicks!

With everything hooked up, take your time routing the cables as nicely as you can leaving lots of room for the gastank. Putting that back in was the most anal part for me, I wanted to make very sure it wouldn't crush or pinch anything. The best thing to do is screw in the bolts at the back of the gastank first so you can use that as a hinge and test lowering the gastank in and out with one hand. Don't forget to plug back in the fuel pump cables, and make sure those don't get crushed on the way down either.

Now for the last and most important step. CLEAR THE MAP THAT COMES WITH BAZZAZ. Do not use it. Firing up the bike for the first time with my eyes closed, she sounded like cylinders weren't firing. After about an hour of checking connections and cycling the fuel pump and whatever the **** else, I actually looked at the Bazzaz map on my laptop and saw the 0% throttle row was all at like +30% fuel. With the bike running, and spitting smoke and raw gas out the exhaust, I cleared out all the cells and magically she sprung to life, no problems! Clear your map and let the self-tune do it's thing, I see no reason to start off with their map it's clearly tragically mistaken.

Last but not least: :all_cohol:all_cohol:all_cohol
 

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BOTM Winner 12/08
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The slipon.zfm1 map that came in my unit works very well.


Self-mapping on the track actually hasn't worked out so well. I've had to take the best parts of some maps to replace the screwed up parts of other maps that resulted from self-mapping.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Yeah I haven't expected the self map thing to be perfect, I've been assuming a few of the values will be wrong and just keep mapping to see if I can look for what comes out consistently. My first run it wanted to lean out everything 5-10% and the next run said it wanted to richen 5-10%. I'm almost suspicious of turning the bike off before applying or at least stopping the self map. I didn't look at them once before shutting off and coming back later and all the self map's green squares were exactly 10.9 AF's. I'm starting to think that the collected values can get corrupted that way, even though the instructions say turning off the bike doesn't stop the self mapping -- which is true it doesn't necessarily turn off self mapping, but it might be messing up the data...I dunno.
 

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Vendor --- BOTM 05/2009
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I have been self mapping for several months on the track and off the track. I look at the data and suggestions closely. So far it has been spot on. You have to be very careful to clear the afm before starting or the data will be incorrect. I've also made the mistake of applying the changes twice which willthrow it off. I wonder what could be different?
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Dunno I turned on the self map for a ride through the hills yesterday to see what it would say and it came back with numbers very similar to my first session, so I don't know where the crazy rich map and the constant 10.9 ratio map came from. I guess I'll chock those up to a bug or something bad I did.

And Cozye, you're saying it's bad to start/stop/start/stop etc. the same self-map without clearing right? But you've had no troubles turning the bike on and off while keeping the same self-map session going?
 

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I had a strange experience with the self-mapping this week. I usually ride at Portland (sea-level), but was out at Miller Motorsports Park in Utah (4K feet) so decided to re-map the first couple of sessions on the track. I didn't pay attention to the values it was recommending, I just applied them. After that, I started to feel a major problem around 11K RPM. It felt like the bike as cutting out.

I reviewed the map and found a cell that was set to -50%! It must have been a glitch of some sort. I reset the cell to 0 and the bike felt fine from then on out.
 

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Vendor --- BOTM 05/2009
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I had a strange experience with the self-mapping this week. I usually ride at Portland (sea-level), but was out at Miller Motorsports Park in Utah (4K feet) so decided to re-map the first couple of sessions on the track. I didn't pay attention to the values it was recommending, I just applied them. After that, I started to feel a major problem around 11K RPM. It felt like the bike as cutting out.

I reviewed the map and found a cell that was set to -50%! It must have been a glitch of some sort. I reset the cell to 0 and the bike felt fine from then on out.
I've heard of errant values in cells before. I've not had anything out of whack, but I do check over the whole table before applying the changes. I would leave out anything that 20% or more.
 

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BOTM Winner 12/08
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I'd like to see the self-mapped files of others that have worked well to compare them to what I have. If you could attach them here (renamed as .txt file) or email them to me CCS440 at earthink.net that would be great. List the mods you've done too.

I'm trying to map to a stock filter with the paper removed. That's a big increase in air flow to adjust to. I'll be at the track on Monday with a full day for self-mapping.

Right now I'm entering all my map data into an Excel spreadsheet so I can easily compare the differences between maps. It's also easier to combine the best parts of each map into a new 'ideal' map and then manually enter those numbers into the Bazzaz program as a new map.
 

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question here for you guys. i only have a leo slip-on right now and am thinking about doing this setup but was wondering if anyone is using the stock headers? or if its even possible since i dont think there is an 02 sensor. do i need get the arrow header first or can i get the bazzaz first. thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You'd have to drill a hole and weld on a bung if you're gonna run the o2 AFM, otherwise the Arrow header makes mounting a heck of a lot easier :icon_lol:.

In other news this isn't exactly scientific evidence but it seems like doing controlled pulls holding the throttle at different positions seems to make better maps than when I run the self-map at the track or around the canyons.
 

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thank you!

Holy crap! thank you soooo much for posting this!!!!
I just installed mine tonight took me a good 4 hours. the first 3 All i had was the bazzaz instructions (which didnt help for ****!) im already not familiar with all the internals (I sure as hell am now) but the manual i have for the bike didnt help at all either. But thank god 3 hours in I found this thread, I was done in like 30 minutes. so one more time Gracias!!!! Now i just have to find instructions on how to load the maps properly
 

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The last two are a little tricky, since Bazzaz asks you to connect up the "speed" and "rpm sensors," which as far as Honda is concerned don't exist. In fact, the speed sensor is the "VS sensor" and sits cleanly out in the open on top of the transmission case:



As for the RPM sensor, I just took a wild guess and figured there's nothing else on the bike that would work for this than the CKP, or crank position sensor. Which is the black one mounted nicely over on the right -back side of the airbox:



is it the one with the green and black wire or the black and red one next to the gray /white plug??

All these plugs are left hanging? The bazzaz ones just replace the stock ones correct??
 

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In that pic its the one closest to you. The bazzaz plugs inline- one goes to the plug and one goes to the wire.

Great write up, I installed the ZFI-QS and everything went smooth because of this.
 

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It's damn near longer than the installation guide, and certainly more thorough. Basically it so completely removes Bazzaz from even grossly negligent liability resulting in death and a charcoal bike that if they sent you a Super Ninento ROM chip instead of an fuel injection control unit, you could have koopa's popping out the ass of your exhaust and it's your problem. That said, you gotta pay to play I guess and I am doing this in the interest of advancing science...much like the early Apollo astronauts. We all take risks................
the disclaimer really is the most complete part of their instructions :toothy4:

but joel @ bazzaz is very helpful if for some reason the sending unit or wiring harness starts givin' you problems. wiring harness on my first unit had a wire loose & the bike wouldn't work right. they had a harness to me the next day & all i had to pay for was shipping & was allowed to return faulty harness after they sent me a new one. most companies won't do that......
so IF for some reason it's not performing properly or you have any questions call bazzaz; they will most likely correct whatever is wrong. keep in mind these are new & it's not unusal for new technology to have some hiccups along the way

thanks for the write up rushkie :five:
 

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Rushkie said:
It's damn near longer than the installation guide, and certainly more thorough. Basically it so completely removes Bazzaz from even grossly negligent liability resulting in death and a charcoal bike that if they sent you a Super Ninento ROM chip instead of an fuel injection control unit, you could have koopa's popping out the ass of your exhaust and it's your problem.

...

Entirely removing the airbox is also optional, I only took off the top two layers, which works fine but means getting to the lower injectors is like getting into the pants of your best friend's recently dumped ex. There's a lot of **** in the way, but persistence is the key.
Dude, you are HILARIOUS!!!
 
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