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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been looking at what I can do to my bike since before I bought it and was wondering what suggestions people had.

I really don't want a choppy dyno chart and all I can think to do HP wise is slip on and and power commander or dyno-jet. I'm not really interested in loosing low end power with a full system unless there is a significant weight loss with the Ti headers. same with more aggressive cams.

This is a street bike but I really don't care about global worming so I was thinking PAIR removal. How much does this help?

I was thinking about going light weight. but there aren't many posts that I found in that direction. I do realize that cutting Lbs on myself is cheeper than cutting Lbs on the bike but I can only do so much there.

The new Michelin pure tires cute 2 Lbs each, which is good for 8 Lbs if you count for gravitational mass and rotational mass.

I was thinking about Ti and Al bolts, nuts, studs, mounts, and pins. I have no idea what the weight savings is there. Pro-Bolt said 40% weight reduction on replaced bolts.

Al sprocket

Mag wheels.

Ohlins Ti/Al suspension

Are cf farings worth the price or is it mostly cosmetic? I don't want to draw attention to myself. I just want a faster bike. the stock plastic is pretty light. Everyone goes crazy over cf but it's always about the look.

fender eliminator (still deciding which one)

any other suggestions or things I should change about my plan? details that I omitted that might help me prioritize which to do first? Anything would help.

thanks
 

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How many miles have you put on? Do you want your bike to be faster as in top speed, accel, or turning? Maybe all three? What are your priorities? Or have you not put in enough seat time to know what those are?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How many miles have you put on? Do you want your bike to be faster as in top speed, accel, or turning? Maybe all three? What are your priorities? Or have you not put in enough seat time to know what those are?
I really mostly use it on the street and am not looking at getting any tickets so top speed isn't a problem. Cornering and handling is important. I've put on about 4000 mostly highway. It's my fuel economy vehicle. My other vehicle is a V8 pickup. Before anyone says it, I know the best way to make the bike faster is to put in seat time but why not improve the machine and myself at the same time (when I have the money.)
 

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Pair removal won't help you at all. Its only good for A.) saving about 8oz of weight and B.) allowing a wideband sensor to accurately read your A/F ratio to obtain a proper tune. You can use two or three brain cells and fab up your own fender eliminator instead of paying all that money for one. As far as performance goes you cant beat the -1 tooth on the front sprocket and +2 or 3 on the rear. Very noticeable difference in accel and you only lose 10-12 mph off your top end. (not like you need it) Depending on what your going for a slip-on will just change your exhaust note. The cat and exhaust valve are the restrictions in the system. You will become numb to the 600s power and always want more but you just have to remember.. Your still quicker than 95% of vehicles on the road. There isnt a magic mod to make these bikes turn into beasts. Although I am in the process of installing a cold fusion nitrous kit.
 

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dont do Mag wheels if its going to be for the street... they'll get effed up quick (bumps, potholes, etc)

do alum.

CF fairings are basically just cosmetic... even though its stronger (technically)

wanna cut weight off the bike... talk to Hooligan lol
 

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Or dont waste your money on rims. Very poor cost/performance return ratio. These rims are already very light.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
The cat and exhaust valve are the restrictions in the system. You will become numb to the 600s power and always want more but you just have to remember. Your still quicker than 95% of vehicles on the road. There isnt a magic mod to make these bikes turn into beasts. Although I am in the process of installing a cold fusion nitrous kit.
I've heard so many threads saying don't drill the cat cause it flows well enough and it's not about me compared to the other vehicles it's about my personal experience. It's not a questions of who's cock is bigger. Lastly I realize it's not about a magic mod, I named several I had in mind as a project.


dont do Mag wheels if its going to be for the street... they'll get effed up quick (bumps, potholes, etc)

do alum.

CF fairings are basically just cosmetic... even though its stronger (technically)
thanks for the tip I was throwing ideas out there. Now that you mention it I remember hearing that Mag corrodes pretty badly.

also thanks on the cf tip people tend to ow and aw about the looks of mods here. I don't want to catch the wrong type of attention for the cops

Or dont waste your money on rims. Very poor cost/performance return ratio. These rims are already very light.
Thanks
 

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TRACK TIME, -1+2 gearing, BST wheels, Ohlins R&T forks, TTx shock, Pilot Pures, slip-on, Power Commander, dyno-tuning, TRACK TIME, Brembo CNC front calipers, SS brake lines, TI fasteners, TRACK TIME, BrakeTech rotors, Brembo front brake master cylinder. Oh, then some more track time. Have someone who knows what they're doing set your free sag, and work with you on tuning the suspension.

This is the basic "unlimited budget" package, haha.
 

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I've heard so many threads saying don't drill the cat cause it flows well enough and it's not about me compared to the other vehicles it's about my personal experience. It's not a questions of who's cock is bigger. Lastly I realize it's not about a magic mod, I named several I had in mind as a project.
I addressed your question about the pair mod and gave you the easiest and most cost effective performance upgrade available. You might want to ease up and not be so snappy Mr. Turtle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I addressed your question about the pair mod and gave you the easiest and most cost effective performance upgrade available. You might want to ease up and not be so snappy Mr. Turtle.
so are we begging for kudos now is that it. Are you a little jealous of the other members that got more attention. Well thanks for the tips but I think I might do the pair this winter cause keeping a well tuned bike sounds great to me. As for anything said on a forum I'm going to weigh it and take it with a grain of salt. I don't know the credentials of other people on here. At the same time I ask because I want input so don't be shy but don't expect me to listen to just one person.
 

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Kudos from a "MrRabbit" would be meaningless but i do understand what you mean about questioning the credentials of posts. There is alot of info out about the PAIR mod and should be common knowledge to anyone who is around or had their bike on a dyno. Zero HP difference when removed. A dyno technician can simply pinch the hoses that leave the solenoid to prevent fresh air from being injected into the exhaust which in turn would disrupt and skew the A/F ratio being read by the wideband sensor. So in other words the PAIR mod should be viewed as DYNO or datalogger mod. As a side note it can sometimes clear up backfiring on decel on some bikes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Kudos from a "MrRabbit" would be meaningless but i do understand what you mean about questioning the credentials of posts. There is alot of info out about the PAIR mod and should be common knowledge to anyone who is around or had their bike on a dyno. Zero HP difference when removed. A dyno technician can simply pinch the hoses that leave the solenoid to prevent fresh air from being injected into the exhaust which in turn would disrupt and skew the A/F ratio being read by the wideband sensor. So in other words the PAIR mod should be viewed as DYNO or datalogger mod. As a side note it can sometimes clear up backfiring on decel on some bikes.
thanks. I think you swayed me out of it. Is there anything else from anyone?
 
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