Honda CBR 600RR Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Maybe its because I moved from an R6, but the clutch is really really hard to pull in (it doesn't seem like it to begin with, but after a day my wrist is KILLING me). Also it catches at the VERY last second. Is this normal or is there something I can adjust to help it? I adjusted the throttle cable, but I still have the problem... Thanks guys for any help since im so new :bounce:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
986 Posts
adjust the clutch from the clutch lever. make it so you can fit a quarter (the coin) of slack in between the lever, and the mount.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,320 Posts
Honduh600RR said:
Maybe its because I moved from an R6, but the clutch is really really hard to pull in (it doesn't seem like it to begin with, but after a day my wrist is KILLING me). Also it catches at the VERY last second. Is this normal or is there something I can adjust to help it? I adjusted the throttle cable, but I still have the problem... Thanks guys for any help since im so new :bounce:
My riding buddy has an 05 R6 and I often ride it, so I can answer this for you. R6 clutch has less tension on the line(requires less effort to pull in) than the 600RR. We're comparing stock to stock here. However, you'll get used to the RR clutch pretty quickly and you won't notice at all. As far as your wrist hurting, that may be due to the RR's more agressive seating position coupled by getting used to the new clutch.

On the other hand, the engagement point for your clutch can be adjusted(read MOM: motorcycle operator's manual) to the way you like. Make sure you have at least a nickle to a quarter coin width of freeplay otherwise your clutch will always be partially engaged, causing accelerated wear and tear.

hope this helped.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,316 Posts
rode a cbr with the raptor-HP and all you need to do is like tap it....



Ceph said:
you could always kick out the $48 for an MSR Raptor-HP easy pull clutch lever and perch. 325% less pull effort than stock. smoooooth like butta.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,434 Posts
Have you tried to lube the cable? If it's under warranty ask your service writer to lube it for you. You can also lossen the adjustment on the cable and move the lever closer to the bar so your grip isn't as wide. I have about 1" of play in mine which is more than recommended by Honda but still allows the friction point to engage and disengage completely. You'll get in trouble if you have it adjusted too tight and it doesn't disengage or if you have it too loose and it doesn't completely engage when the lever is pulled in. As long as your friction point starts to grab atleast 1" from the clip-on you should be fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,434 Posts
Honduh600RR said:
1 inch isn't too much of play? I would think the bike wouldn't dis-engage all the way...
Nope. Your friction points fall well short of the lever travel. So your clutch is engaging and disengaging long before your lever travel ends or begins. You just want to make sure the range of your friction points do not equal or exceed either side of your lever travel.

Basically, if your clutch is not grabbing right at the clip-on then you have plenty of "play". The worst thing you can do is have it too tight and the clutch doesn't fully disengage. If you can put it in gear and then slowly let the clutch out until it begins to grab, it should start to grab about 1-1/4" from the clip-on. I'm guessing because I haven't really measured that point but it may be a little more. But a little more play in the clutch is fine as long as you don't get excessive with it. All you're doing is moving the friction point closer to the clip-on so it's easier to pull.

I've put 20k+ miles with it adjusted like this. It's yet to be decided if the clutch will wear out any faster because of it. But I'd rather replace my clutch a little sooner than have to deal with tendonitis.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top