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Discussion Starter #1
O.K. so I am basically electric illiterate and need help.

I am installing new license plate lights and need to wire them up in series, so I get out the multimeter to check current. I haven't used these much at all, so I consult the manual. The first chapter is on simply testing DC batteries, so I think thats easy enough. I hooked the leads up and touch the black lead to the frame and the red to the positive battery post. I get a spark at the post, I hear a pop at the front of the bike and the leads get real hot real quick. Something wasn't dialed in correctly on the multimeter. Piss. Now the speedometer, fuel gauge, nuetral light, running lights and plate lights are inoperable. I am thinking that it is one of the relays on the left air intake but I am not sure. I bought the bike used, it did not come with the owners manual nor have I bought one yet ( :roll: ). I haven't located any fuses on the bike.

1. Anyone know which relay is to blame?
2. Are there any fuses that I should check?
3. Any other ideas?

Thanks in advance for any help. I know I should have an owners manual as well as a service manual but I have put it off hoping I wouldn't need it :oops: .
 

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the fuses are in teh front left side of the bike behind the faring. sounds like you just blew a fuse to me
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Wow. I feel like an idiot. :oops:

Thanks faygo92- I got to digging around for the fuse box, found it and sure enough it was the 10 amp fuse. :D I had a good feeling it was just a fuse, or at least I hope it was and that I had not fried a harness.

Thanks again.
 

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yep, that happened to me too when i was wireing up a custom plate light setup. while i was trying to get the placement of the light worked out, i accidently grounded one of the lights to the frame, and BAMM the instrument cluster and running lights go out... swapped out the fuse and i was good to go... :mrgreen:
 

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eleven
do not feel like an idiot it happens to the best of us :bounce: :bounce:
 

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OK here's some help about using your multimeter.

-YOU NEVER using the current test on a closed circuit. The multimeter needs to be in the path of the current. BY this I mean you have to cut the wires open and put the leads at each side of the wire.

This is not very efficient so my suggestion would be to take a voltage reading with the bike on. You can use Voltage without cutting wires. Should be 12V (duh) hehehe or very close to it. Make sure you are on Volts DC and NOT AC.

With the bike off use the OHMMETER to check resistance. You have to do it with the bike off b/c the multimeter puts out a small electrical current so it can calculate resistance. Divide voltage by resistance and mathematically that will equal current.

If what your checking for is and open in the wire you can use the ohmmeter or my personal favorite, the diode checker. If you have a short (A wire should be a short) you will hear a beep from the multimeter. If the wire is broken it will be silent. This is good to use b/c you dont have to look at the multimeter all the time.


Let me know if this helps you.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
havoc- rock on man, I appreciate the info.

Wow, could this be the first post where the original poster realized how easy the problem was and didn't get a page or two of flames? :bounce: :bounce: :bounce:

J/K Its nice to know that the majority of us are here for right reasons. :mrgreen:
 
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