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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I have a cbr with 26 miles on it, and the check engine light came on, 3 long 4 short. code 34 exhaust servo. So I did the MOD exhaust servo delete with the capacitors and resistors. After doing the mod now I get engine code 35 idk what that is. Im dieing to go ride!!!
Another couple questions I have.
I bought a full yoshimura exhaust is not on the bike yet I was told I need a tuner in order to run a full exhaust is this true?
 

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Seems like you didn't do the mod correctly since the error code directly relates to you modify the servo. As for the second part of your question, yes you will need to buy a bazzaz or power commander to have the A/F ratio adjusted to accomodate your full system. If you don't then it will probably run rough and you'll be less than pleased.
 
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Well, you just pissed away any warranty work being done on your bike with that problem.

Before you just had a high voltage fault which should have been fixed properly, not by doing a halfassed servo delete. Code 35 is for the servo motor malfunctioning, so chances are you did your wiring incorrectly and is throwing up that code as well.

Your best bet is to buy a used motor from eBay, put it on the bike, then go take it to a dealership and have them fix it, unless you're comfortable with finding an electrical fault in the system.

The green wire is ground, yellow/red is power. You should have no more than 5V with the ignition in the on position and 4.75-5.25Ohm with the servo disconnected and power off.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Damn, im gonna make another one but i followed everything from the picture in the how to. Also what do you suggest for the efi tuner . 2 bros juice box pro, bazzaz or power commander?
 

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You could aways try and reverse whatever it is that you did and hope Demented is wrong, but he's a pretty wise when it comes to Hondas.
 
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Damn, im gonna make another one but i followed everything from the picture in the how to. Also what do you suggest for the efi tuner . 2 bros juice box pro, bazzaz or power commander?
Bazzaz or PC depending on what you want out of it.

Either it was made wrong, or the too high of voltage that was in the original fault, burnt up some of the components in the bypass you made and caused that fault. You have to fix the high voltage fault first.
 

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Power commanders are very common and seem to work quite well, The Bazzaz system is a bit more in depth Its gives you more features of control with it comes to tuning. I don't know of anyone using the juice boxes, I wouldnt really recommend them.

Honestly I would just stay away from the servo motor, you botched it once do you really wanna wreck the servo?
 
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So your saying code 34 wasnt a bad servo it was high voltage?
Correct. Could also be low voltage, but since failure 35 is now present and you're positive the circuit was built right, leans more towards high voltage.

Fault 34-1, EGCV Pot low voltage
Fault 34-2, EGCV pot high voltage
Fault 35-1, EGCV servomotor malfunction.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Alright I went back to radio shack and did a new unit followed all the directions checked everything and still once i plug it in it goes from code 34 to 35. I rode the bike about 10 miles is running strong.
 
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You have to fix fault 34 before doing anything with 35. You're just running in circles making no progress.
 

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For what it’s worth – I’d put the servo back on, hook everything (cables) up and remove the battery over night. Connect the battery back up the next day and go for a ride.

The code might/should clear on its own now unless something is truly messed up.

I would also suggest that you put at least 600 miles on the bike before you do full exhaust and power commander. I took mine in for the 600 mile checkup/oil change and then did my full system at 1000 miles.

I also did the servo delete and didn’t have any issues so it does work.

Something else to think about – Did you make sure that the exhaust valve is locked open? Without the servo the ECU has no way to manage the position and if it’s closed that could be some of the problem.
 
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For what it’s worth – I’d put the servo back on, hook everything (cables) up and remove the battery over night. Connect the battery back up the next day and go for a ride.
That wont fix or determine anything. Killing power to the system overnight will not fix or reset the fault.
I would also suggest that you put at least 600 miles on the bike before you do full exhaust and power commander. I took mine in for the 600 mile checkup/oil change and then did my full system at 1000 miles.
You can put a full exhaust on at 0 miles on the engine/bike. No harm will come from putting an exhaust on at 0 miles, 100,000 miles, or anywhere in between.


Something else to think about – Did you make sure that the exhaust valve is locked open? Without the servo the ECU has no way to manage the position and if it’s closed that could be some of the problem.
That will not lead to an electrical fault being detected by the ECM.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I am just gonna put everything back the way it was I did a nice job soldering the servo back to the stock harnest and looks like when it was new...gonna take the bike in to honda tomorrow.
 

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That wont fix or determine anything. Killing power to the system overnight will not fix or reset the fault.

You can put a full exhaust on at 0 miles on the engine/bike. No harm will come from putting an exhaust on at 0 miles, 100,000 miles, or anywhere in between.



That will not lead to an electrical fault being detected by the ECM.
I think that you are more concerned about having the last word than actually helping someone.... No need to reply to this because I'm done.
 
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I think that you are more concerned about having the last word than actually helping someone.... No need to reply to this because I'm done.
Last word, no. I'm just correcting you on the BS information that you have out without a shred of knowledge on the issue.
 

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I'm with D on everything but the high voltage bit, including his replies to jermstyle.

As far as the high voltage is concerned, IMO its just as likely to be high as low, however I would lean towards low as its more likely you have an open circuit somewhere than an issue with the 5V rail.
 
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Either way, the same test will show if it's a high or low voltage fault. I only sway to high voltage fault 'cause there was no issue with the actual servo motor throwing code 35, buy the bypass plugs (assuming they're being made right) throw them. Low voltage wouldn't damage one.
 

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Either way, the same test will show if it's a high or low voltage fault. I only sway to high voltage fault 'cause there was no issue with the actual servo motor throwing code 35, buy the bypass plugs (assuming they're being made right) throw them. Low voltage wouldn't damage one.
I was thinking that the low voltage would cause it not to work properly (no supply), not that it had been damaged...
 
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I was thinking that the low voltage would cause it not to work properly (no supply), not that it had been damaged...
Only problem I see with that is then with the stock servo on there, code 35 should have come up.
 
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