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Discussion Starter #1
Hey

I know there are posts out here for removing of the exhaust valve but I cant find any. I know how to trick the FI light but I need to know how to remove everything and tie off the valve.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
 

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curious too, I believe peeps have been manually fastening them in the open position with wire or similar.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
correct, and I've heard of posts out there for "how to" but cant find it...

doesnt seem that hard but, think I should steal a friends camera and make it:)
 

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Hey

I know there are posts out here for removing of the exhaust valve but I cant find any. I know how to trick the FI light but I need to know how to remove everything and tie off the valve.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers
go down to the valve and pull the cover off, i believe its two 8 or 10mm bolts. unhook the cables and put the cover back on.

next pull your seat off, unbolt the servo motor and take it out. then follow the writeup for the wiring to trick the computer. its really easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
go down to the valve and pull the cover off, i believe its two 8 or 10mm bolts. unhook the cables and put the cover back on.

next pull your seat off, unbolt the servo motor and take it out. then follow the writeup for the wiring to trick the computer. its really easy.
cool. I thought I had to use wire to hold the valve open.

cheers
 

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cool. I thought I had to use wire to hold the valve open.

cheers
Yes, I figure there should be something good installed to hold the valve open.

I have been looking at the valve and spring assembly for a while (bike is just going back together for a track bike). I am thinking of making a small bracket which will fasten the centre flapper valve bolt/shaft to both the small bolts where the cover bolts on. I believe the spring does not have enough tension to stop the valve from rattling or changing its position from wide open.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Some wire would probably also do the trick too:)
 

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Yes, I figure there should be something good installed to hold the valve open.

I have been looking at the valve and spring assembly for a while (bike is just going back together for a track bike). I am thinking of making a small bracket which will fasten the centre flapper valve bolt/shaft to both the small bolts where the cover bolts on. I believe the spring does not have enough tension to stop the valve from rattling or changing its position from wide open.
no need to put anything on to hold the valve open, once you pull the cables off the valve it stays open full time :five:
 

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I did this mod to my exhuast valve and is was held in the closed position with the spring. What you have to do is take the whole assembly off so it is just the valve.... start the bike and rotate the valve to the open or closed position, you cand tell fairly easy by listing to the exhaust note. and mark it. If you marked it in the closed position rotate it 90 degrees. I saftey wired mine open by drilling a hole in the case and attaching it to the valve and the hole in the case. Then to delete the servo motor go here.....http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=103279&referrerid=30566
 

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Can we cut the exhaust valve out entirely and weld a straight piece of pipe in? My bike sounds and runs like garbage until I hit 7k and I think its this valve.
 

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No need to remove or rig the valve in any way. Remove the servo-motor and the cables. That's it. The valve does not otherwise affect performance.

Also, keep in mind that your power band doesn't engage until 7k RPMs. That means your secondary injectors do not engage until then. This is working as intended. If you want to change this consider a sprocket change (cheapest) a tune (less cheap) or a full exhaust system + tune (not cheap).
 

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First of all, everyone was correct about the valve. Thanks @Ldn for the info about why the bike starts to run good at 7k. I had an irritating vibration that seemed to be coming from the exhaust and figured it was the valve, like it was loose and rattling in there. I cut the valve out yesterday and welded the pipe back up and no difference. So, like everybody says, just leave this thing alone. I bought the parts to do the servo motor delete and free up some room for some tools.
 

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I went a bit further. I removed all the cables and the motor, and installed a Servo Buddy.

But then I took the header off, and then cut off all the outside bracket and stuff, then ground off the remainder.

Next I cut off the bolts holding the throttle plate on, and then cut the throttle shaft and pulled it right out.

Then I welded screws in the holes left over.

I was just going to wire it open, and had marked it and everything, but it rattled very loudly and it sounded like ****. Plus the shaft and valve are still in there, and the bracket and spring/cam/other bits were still out on the pipe.

I figure if I'm doing this, Im going to maximize flow, minimize weight and clean things up both visually and to keep things as simple as possible.
 
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