So I want to replace my 08cbr600rr brake line to stainless steel brake line. Does anyone have a good experience with any one brand. Or is there a quality brand I should look for. And can you get SS braided clutch cable. The bike has 20k and 1st owner never kept up to n anything so I’m replacing part when I can.
Need help with braided Break Line
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eh? Clutch cable's already stainless. Can probably use some cleaning and lubing. There are spraying kits you can get for bicycle-brakes that make it easier to clean & lube.
OEM brake hose works fine. I still have OEM hoses on my '86 VFR750 and VF500 and they work just as well as when I bought them. In fact, I still have original rear brake pads on both, have gone through at least 10x sets of front pads.
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It's the fluid that needs replacing every couple years. DOT 4 or 5.1 will give better heat-resistance on track-bikes, but absorb moisture faster, so needs to be replaced more often (yearly). Start with fluid-flush with fresh DOT-4 fluid.
Should rebuild master-cylinder and calipers when going to SS lines. I really like Galfer SS hoses and pads. Galfer Performance Motorcycle Braking Systems | Performance motorcycle braking systems for street, racing, and off-road.
OEM brake hose works fine. I still have OEM hoses on my '86 VFR750 and VF500 and they work just as well as when I bought them. In fact, I still have original rear brake pads on both, have gone through at least 10x sets of front pads.
It's the fluid that needs replacing every couple years. DOT 4 or 5.1 will give better heat-resistance on track-bikes, but absorb moisture faster, so needs to be replaced more often (yearly). Start with fluid-flush with fresh DOT-4 fluid.
Should rebuild master-cylinder and calipers when going to SS lines. I really like Galfer SS hoses and pads. Galfer Performance Motorcycle Braking Systems | Performance motorcycle braking systems for street, racing, and off-road.
Are the calipers and master hard to rebuild?OEM brake hose works fine. I still have OEM hoses on my '86 VFR750 and VF500 and they work just as well as when I bought them. In fact, I still have original rear brake pads on both, have gone through at least 10x sets of front pads.
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It's the fluid that needs replacing every couple years. DOT 4 or 5.1 will give better heat-resistance on track-bikes, but absorb moisture faster, so needs to be replaced more often (yearly). Start with fluid-flush with fresh DOT-4 fluid.
Should rebuild master-cylinder and calipers when going to SS lines. I really like Galfer SS hoses and pads. Galfer Performance Motorcycle Braking Systems | Performance motorcycle braking systems for street, racing, and off-road.
Ok cool. cause the guy I got it from just let it sit from like 2009 to 2017. He treated it like ****. Front brake lever broke missing hardware so I’m just replacing little by little. Some things are just dry rotted and cracked.
I agree. The bike is in incredible condition besides the cosmetics really. But bc he neglected it for so long I want to be sure brake lines are new. And going to rebuild master cylinders. Just bc it can’t hurt and I’d rather be safe then sorry.
You will definitely notice a difference when going to a steel braided brake lines. Especially fronts.
I went with Russell's '07 front end kit. I had nothing but issues. Not with the quality, but with the length. They are extremely short, and their customer service rep argued with me that I screwed it up. I ended up measuring a slightly longer line than necessary, and shuffling everything over.
Previous poster is very correct. Now is an excellent time to rebuild calipers. You should only need replacement rubber seals.
Partzilla has an absolutely excellent video on YouTube with just about every step highlighted. I believe he also did a front and rear master cylinder rebuild video as well.
My only cautionary statement to pass on, is the inherent rigidity of the steel lines. You will have to be very patient and observant when clocking the new lines.
Feel free to ask questions. There is a TON of knowledge on here.
I went with Russell's '07 front end kit. I had nothing but issues. Not with the quality, but with the length. They are extremely short, and their customer service rep argued with me that I screwed it up. I ended up measuring a slightly longer line than necessary, and shuffling everything over.
Previous poster is very correct. Now is an excellent time to rebuild calipers. You should only need replacement rubber seals.
Partzilla has an absolutely excellent video on YouTube with just about every step highlighted. I believe he also did a front and rear master cylinder rebuild video as well.
My only cautionary statement to pass on, is the inherent rigidity of the steel lines. You will have to be very patient and observant when clocking the new lines.
Feel free to ask questions. There is a TON of knowledge on here.
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I did the Galfer lines, front and rear. Nice product. The front is a little difficult to install as you stack two connections under the master cylinder which is already a tight situation. Some difficulties also with the electrical lines from the ignition that are in the way. Had minimal rubbing on my fairing which I had to trim off. I did not notice much, if any braking improvement, but I am not usually aggressive on the brakes.
Yup, ultimately what determines shortest stopping distance is tyres and how grippy they are. Brakes with different pads, lines, levers and fluid may affect how hard you have to squeeze to reach maximum deceleration force, but final result will be same braking distances.
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67 Posts
I've got Spiegler. The banjo bolts are a little difficult, and you definitely need a vise, but I'm pleased with them. Everything feels a little firmer at the lever now. I bought them through SBTG, and got a free can of brake cleaner and brake fluid with my order, although I opted to use my own DOT 5.1 brake fluid instead.
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I'm a fan of Core Moto. Fairly priced, used by many and fully customizable.
Confused. What do you need the vise for?
Put the banjo fitting in a 'soft jaw' vice, and thread the brake line in and give it a good snug with the appropriate size wrench. Better to do in a vice. Prevents cross threading and potential damage to master cylinder.
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67 Posts
The Spiegler lines come with a plastic jig that allows you to safely rotate the banjo fittings. The jig mustbe held in a vise; trying to hold it with pliers, including vise grip pliers, will not work.
That's a better setup than what I came up with for my Russell lines. I'm happy with what I finally ended up with, but the consumer support sucks. Oh well. Answering calls from people who are frustrated can't be an easy job to go to every day.
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