:dontknow:... That's a stock OEM ECU that gave you great gains????
New 2010, cheap mods made for a BIG difference!
So I picked up a 2010 600rr a couple weeks ago. I started off small with a DIY fender eliminator (put LEDs in the pass. footpegs) and DIY LED flush mounts in the front. I will post pictures of these later of course.
The reason for this post is to inform people of the cheap performance mods I did and just how effective they were. I put a two brothers pipe on first and I feel like it increased absolutely nothing, just made the bike sound good. Rather than buying an air filter, I gutted the steel bezel off of the factory filter and removed the intake pipe and chopped off all shrouds from the inside and cut out the hump at the top right on the inlet. I definitely noticed a little bit of a power increase after doing this mod. The front felt very light at the top of the rev range in first and second. After researching about the Z bomb I decided I would make my own, it is an extremely simple circuit... but further reading lead me to believe that the <2009 ECU should work in its place and needed no fuel enrichment up top. I got an ECU for less than the price of a Z bomb and installed it but it instantly through a CEL #25 which is for the knock sensor. Reviewing the wiring diagrams I found that the knock sensor signal pin changed between the years and needed to be moved.
The 2008 ECU has to be the biggest power improvement I have ever felt on a 600. I can no longer keep the front end on the ground in 1st gear at full throttle. It cost me about $50 shipped.
My next mod is going to be a GP-style exhaust using an old carbon Muzzy can I have laying around. I will chop it to about 6" and drop it under the foot peg. I will also build a quick shifter using a relay to cut coil voltage triggered by a micro switch, should cost <$10 and allow WOT, clutchless shifting just as the dynojet unit would.
The reason for this post is to inform people of the cheap performance mods I did and just how effective they were. I put a two brothers pipe on first and I feel like it increased absolutely nothing, just made the bike sound good. Rather than buying an air filter, I gutted the steel bezel off of the factory filter and removed the intake pipe and chopped off all shrouds from the inside and cut out the hump at the top right on the inlet. I definitely noticed a little bit of a power increase after doing this mod. The front felt very light at the top of the rev range in first and second. After researching about the Z bomb I decided I would make my own, it is an extremely simple circuit... but further reading lead me to believe that the <2009 ECU should work in its place and needed no fuel enrichment up top. I got an ECU for less than the price of a Z bomb and installed it but it instantly through a CEL #25 which is for the knock sensor. Reviewing the wiring diagrams I found that the knock sensor signal pin changed between the years and needed to be moved.
The 2008 ECU has to be the biggest power improvement I have ever felt on a 600. I can no longer keep the front end on the ground in 1st gear at full throttle. It cost me about $50 shipped.
My next mod is going to be a GP-style exhaust using an old carbon Muzzy can I have laying around. I will chop it to about 6" and drop it under the foot peg. I will also build a quick shifter using a relay to cut coil voltage triggered by a micro switch, should cost <$10 and allow WOT, clutchless shifting just as the dynojet unit would.
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yeah if you think about it the 08 doesnt have the same emmision restrictions like the 09 and up ie. timing retard at high end. so therfore you will get more power out of an older ecm. my question would be is will it adversely affect any other part of power range because i think they made a few changes to the engine but im not sure.:dontknow:... That's a stock OEM ECU that gave you great gains????
good thinkin btw
and you say the only change you had to make was the knock sensor signal wire terminal at the pcm? do the 07-08 even use the exhaust servo?
and i would try testing you "quick shift theroy" by killing power monetarily at idle to see if it kills the bike when shifting into first gear at a light. just a thought lemme know! also will killing the power to the coils cause the cel to come on
I have the ZBomb and a tune, but I have never had my front end come up on me heh. I would need a -1 in the front for that I'd guess.
I guess I should also clarify that my exhaust flap is permanently secured open right now and will be completely deleted when the next exhaust is built, along with the cat. I don't know if the 2008 had an exhaust servo at all, I just did it for noise. If there is not one in 2008 then I should get no CEL if I unplug the control mechanism all together.
As for the bike shutting off while putting it in first, it will only activate the switch during an upshift... May be a problem going from first to neutral but I could make it so that the system turns off below 30mph.
As for the bike shutting off while putting it in first, it will only activate the switch during an upshift... May be a problem going from first to neutral but I could make it so that the system turns off below 30mph.
yeah if you think about it the 08 doesnt have the same emmision restrictions like the 09 and up ie. timing retard at high end. so therfore you will get more power out of an older ecm. my question would be is will it adversely affect any other part of power range because i think they made a few changes to the engine but im not sure.
good thinkin btw
and you say the only change you had to make was the knock sensor signal wire terminal at the pcm? do the 07-08 even use the exhaust servo?
Yes, I found out from Nico, that the grey harness (B), has to have the #23 wire (colored black and yellow), moved to position 5. There is no wire in position 5. Once you do that it's just plug and play. No CEL. And lots of power. As for the exhuast flap I don't know about the 07-08 models. What I did get was one of those premade plugs with the eliminator circuit built in and covered with shrink tube. With this unit plugged in, you can remove the exhaust servo motor and cables. What I'm curious about is do you lose any low to mid-range by having the flapper always open?
^^ Exactly!
I'm unsure if I lost any power down low off the butt dyno alone. I'm sure that with the cat gone and the GP style exhaust I will lose a little down low but I'm very willing to sacrifice for the top end gain.
I'm unsure if I lost any power down low off the butt dyno alone. I'm sure that with the cat gone and the GP style exhaust I will lose a little down low but I'm very willing to sacrifice for the top end gain.
That's the reason I went with a slipon initially. I didn't want to lose the low end power. I figure the bike is already weak enough down low. Didn't want to sacrifice that.Yes, I found out from Nico, that the grey harness (B), has to have the #23 wire (colored black and yellow), moved to position 5. There is no wire in position 5. Once you do that it's just plug and play. No CEL. And lots of power. As for the exhuast flap I don't know about the 07-08 models. What I did get was one of those premade plugs with the eliminator circuit built in and covered with shrink tube. With this unit plugged in, you can remove the exhaust servo motor and cables. What I'm curious about is do you lose any low to mid-range by having the flapper always open?
My understanding is that the exhaust flap was intended to reduce noise. With a cat still in place, there is more than enough back pressure without the valve or a muffler to keep the mid-range torque. If I were you I would still grab a full system if it is in the budget. There is always a lower gear. 
hey guys i'm thinking of picking up a new 600rr . and i'm lost on some of the stuff your talkin about .. but with the ecu .. did anyone find out if its causing any problems putting a 08 into a 11 machine.. can someone tell me where i can read up on more of this stuff .. need to find out what the exhaust flap is ..
so my understanding is that going to the 08 chip .. u dont get the restrictions that honda put on the 11 model is this correct and is there pics of this install somewhere
cheer
chris
so my understanding is that going to the 08 chip .. u dont get the restrictions that honda put on the 11 model is this correct and is there pics of this install somewhere
cheer
chris
I assume that possibly getting an 08 ECU might be cheaper, but going the route where you get the Z-Bomb and a ZFI with a tune will unlock the full potential of what you have on the bike. Just my .02
Yeah I have the 08 and it has (had) the exhaust flapper. There is a guide to making an eliminator plug on here (so you dont get the efi error) which is really good, but don't expect huge gains from going with a full system, slip ons make the biggest difference on these bikes.
Im with clokwork, I think Honda wouldn't make a new 600 that couldn't be competitive in race trim. I would put the hp increase down to the timing retard restriction being taken off.
Im with clokwork, I think Honda wouldn't make a new 600 that couldn't be competitive in race trim. I would put the hp increase down to the timing retard restriction being taken off.
Also, in a minor update, engine internals usually change, so I wouldn't think the 08 map would be very accurate for a 2010 bike, because you've got a slightly different motor.
wait other members here on these forums said that the 08 ecu didn't work on their 10 or 09. i can't remember, something about a error light came on and the bike ran like sh*t.
I completely agree with you about the tune but a 2007-2008 ECU can actually be had cheaper than the Z-bomb/IRC, PLUS the computer doesn't think it is at 85% throttle which may limit the timing advance and hurt power across the board (can't confirm it but I would assume it). The best bet would probably be the older ECU plus a PCV or Bazzaz w/ autotune.I assume that possibly getting an 08 ECU might be cheaper, but going the route where you get the Z-Bomb and a ZFI with a tune will unlock the full potential of what you have on the bike. Just my .02
On a side note, do these units control timing at all to make use of higher octane fuels?
I did get an error light. The code which came up with for the knock sensor and for good reason, that seams to be the only difference in the wiring harness. If you re-pin accordingly the code will go away and the bike will run stronger than ever. I checked my plugs today and the bike is not running lean. I have been running 93 octane since doing this mod incase the difference in engine meant the 2010 model ran less timing across the board. I have done about 300 miles on the new ECU with no problems at all. Tonight I will be taking off the two brother's pipe and putting on the shortened muzzy GP style and eliminating the cat, the butterfly valve and the servo. I picked up the cap and resistors to build the eliminator as outlined in the DIY thread.wait other members here on these forums said that the 08 ecu didn't work on their 10 or 09. i can't remember, something about a error light came on and the bike ran like sh*t.
I also picked up the stuff to try out the DIY quick shifter but I will not write up a DIY for this until it works 100% without a CEL. I'm unsure if the ECU has a "check" system for its supplied coil voltage. It also may have a misfire counter which could probably be overcome by sending a high manifold vacuum signal and closed throttle signal to the ECU at the same time through the use of two more relays and the appropriate resistors.
Like I mentioned earlier, I also have the servo plug, but stil have yet to install it/make the flapper open permently. I can't really go back if I do notice too much mid-range gone.
I removed my servo and the valve inside the pipe completely since making is post. I noticed that when the valve was fastened in the "open" position, it was not 100% open, more like 90%. I noticed no loss of power at all down low but I plan on getting to the dyno pretty soon to varify it all.
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