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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's up guys? Figured I'd join another forum since ZX10R.net, 13x.net, svrider.net as well as a few of the other ransoms I'm on are pretty specific to models and manufacturers in general with the exception of 13x. Anyways, I'm here for all your knowledge. Lol I've creeped a bit but figured I'd make it formal since I will be here for a while.
So what the hell am I about?
I ride a 2020 ZX10R KRT on the street that makes 207rwhp. I also bring it onto my local track from time to time but more on that later. It's a great bike and can't see myself parting with it. Eventually it will be track only.... I see this sneaking up on me sooner and sooner every track day when I decide to load it up and go. Next is a 2001 Sv650. This is a dedicated race bike (see the trend yet?) So this is as far as you can go. Full body, spears racing forged +2mm superbike built motor, gsxr 1000 front end, total loss system and some 42mm kehin flat slides. Things a beast on track at a whopping 78rwhp. 馃槀 I bought it because it was a well rounded light bike to learn on and it's been a solid platform.
Still reading? ....my man/woman. I just recently picked up a 2003 cbr600rr for $1k. It has 19k miles on it and it's a bit rough. I am in the (slow) process of making this into a 2nd/practice bike for when the +2mm motor is down for maintenance and what not. So far I've bought and replaced the air filter with a BMC filter, new oem plugs, engine ice and a new thermostat and overflow coolant tank, sliders/rear spools, vortex race rear sprocket set so 43-47 tooth. Also a new clutch cable, a vortex front stay, oil change and a fresh set of Michelin CT2s. It's a slow build since I'm maintaining my life, 3 bikes and begining track days. So all the gear and such is crazy...
Not to mention the **** you don't think about like a generator, tents, blah blah. Anyways, future plans include 2005/2006 cbr600rr fromt end...also seen some ppl swapping to 1000rr front end? Not just stopping there, I'd like to do some cartridges and find myself a used rear Penske or online I can send to alliance motorsports.to get rebuilt. I'd also like to swap a 05/06 swing arm also. Does anyone know off hand if the 07-10 swing arm is the same also?
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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Last night I removed the oem headlight assembly and a bunch of random parts while going through the bike. I'm going to try to lay some rattle can paint today so it's less of a eye sore. I took a tail fairing I had laying around from a customers crashed zzr600 and made some headlight plates for a ghetto race body until I can buy a set. It turned out ok with a few hours massaging and a heat gun. I just have it held in place currently with a bunch of 4mm Allen key but it will get riveted after paint. Lmk what you guys think.
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That's a wicked scratchy front fairing, top marks for the boltwork!

Definitely get cartridges and a good rear suspension setup.

Don't think the 07+ swingarm is compatible...haven't seen anything OTF about this swap.

At your local track, how do the 07+ CBR's hold up against the 03-6 models?

Are they pretty much equal, or does one have an advantage?.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That's a wicked scratchy front fairing, top marks for the boltwork!

Definitely get cartridges and a good rear suspension setup.

Don't think the 07+ swingarm is compatible...haven't seen anything OTF about this swap.

At your local track, how do the 07+ CBR's hold up against the 03-6 models?

Are they pretty much equal, or does one have an advantage?.
Scratchy body work? Well, do I have good news for you. 馃榿
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First coat of primer on blue panel, and cleaned up the nose. About to go to the store grab some 600 grit and rivets for the final assembly. Honestly, I figured as much with the 07+ cbr swing arm. It's more of a pipe dream since I know 05-06 arms will work.....then at times a part or something will show 05-20 cross reference. Only reason I want the updated swing arm is easier to find shocks even though I could switch the entire linkage. But also chain adjusters. Yeah the forks/suspension and body work are next on my list. This bike will mainly just be a extra bike like I mentioned before. As for the 07+ builds....you see them out there more plentiful than you do the 03-06. I'm guessing because this bikes a tank. I can strip more weight and I don't plan on being extremely competitive on this chassis but it's nice to have. One of my coaches is on a 2010 and not that it's a great comparison because....he's extremely fast. This will be the first time I will bring the cbr out on my next track weekend. Also I'll add some pics of some other bikes. Both are pretty well prepped and just chilling until the next track day also.
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Headlights out, and temp "race body" somewhat installed. Actually worked a ton better than I thought it would.
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Also painted the blue panel..
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As for putting it all together I'm beat. And I still have a bit of work to do I'd like to bleed the coolant one more time and clutch cable.
 

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Welcome to the forum. I own an 03-04 600RR race bike built to SBK specs with a mishmash of HRC & other trick parts. Everything you could possibly think of doing on that bike I have done it & then some.

For the suspension if you're going to use the original conventional forks just get K-Tech 9.5N fork springs & Ohlins fork piston kit & set the fork height flush with the top triple, this bike needs a lot of trail to be stable under hard braking & high lean angles. Going with 05-06 600RR USD forks will give you more options as far as fork springs go but that's it. A well tuned conventional forks is still capable of performing at the same level as any USD fork short of having an Ohlins or K-Tech Superbike forks.

The advantage of going to an 05-06 600RR swingarm is it's lighter than the 03-04 but you'll have to get the rear caliper bracket & other parts to complete the swap, if you can get your hands on a WP 4618 rear shock that's the best you can get for that bike, otherwise you just have to settle for an Ohlins 46PRXLS rear shock.

As for the engine just swap out the 03-04 head in favor of the 05-06 head, mill the head .20mm off, degree the cams, set the valve clearances to .20mm IN & .25mm EX. Mill the cylinders to get .60mm squish using the OEM head gasket but that requires you to take the engine apart, I don't recommend using Cometic or Athena head gaskets, went through a few of them & they all blew out. OEM or HRC head gasket is the only way to go.

Going to watch the progress of your CBR build, I also happen to work on a lot of Gen5 ZX10R/RR for track & race. Going to build one from scratch as soon as I finish tweaking my 600RR.

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Welcome to the forum. I own an 03-04 600RR race bike built to SBK specs with a mishmash of HRC & other trick parts. Everything you could possibly think of doing on that bike I have done it & then some.

For the suspension if you're going to use the original conventional forks just get K-Tech 9.5N fork springs & Ohlins fork piston kit & set the fork height flush with the top triple, this bike needs a lot of trail to be stable under hard braking & high lean angles. Going with 05-06 600RR USD forks will give you more options as far as fork springs go but that's it. A well tuned conventional forks is still capable of performing at the same level as any USD fork short of having an Ohlins or K-Tech Superbike forks.

The advantage of going to an 05-06 600RR swingarm is it's lighter than the 03-04 but you'll have to get the rear caliper bracket & other parts to complete the swap, if you can get your hands on a WP 4618 rear shock that's the best you can get for that bike, otherwise you just have to settle for an Ohlins 46PRXLS rear shock.

As for the engine just swap out the 03-04 head in favor of the 05-06 head, mill the head .20mm off, degree the cams, set the valve clearances to .20mm IN & .25mm EX. Mill the cylinders to get .60mm squish using the OEM head gasket but that requires you to take the engine apart, I don't recommend using Cometic or Athena head gaskets, went through a few of them & they all blew out. OEM or HRC head gasket is the only way to go.

Going to watch the progress of your CBR build, I also happen to work on a lot of Gen5 ZX10R/RR for track & race. Going to build one from scratch as soon as I finish tweaking my 600RR.

Cheers!
Wow....the wealth of knowledge in this one post is astonishing. 馃槀 Literally years of info dropped in one post. I'll actually go flush the forks in a few minutes. I was actually thinking about keeping the conventional fork and going that route also. Since it's cheaper it's more appealing, then I was just worried about if I could valve them properly for a 190lbs rider seeing these forks are a thing of the past and the aftermarket support is smaller. I thought the swing arm was lighter also....but as I'd look at them in a daze online they all start to blend together and look the same then I feel like I'm throwing money away for chain adjusters so that's good news it actually is lighter. I found a used ohlins 46prxls used for around 600 last week and almost purchased it....but I'd want to rebuild and the 800 dollar venture isn't in the cards for few weeks. Plus, purchases like that I hate spending crazy money on used parts like that at times. I'm going to nyst the 17th so I'll finally run it and shake it down then. As for the motor you just saved me big money. I was just going to buy a motor 05+ and mess with it until this one popped. Ive actually heard that about the gaskets before.
On a side note I'll never ride the 10R as hard as I could on track because as I go into a corner I think about my payment. If you ever need anything zx10r wise lmk. I'm more familiar w that platform. Had a 16 before this one. Making 207rwhp on the 2020. It was set up for the street but slowly realizing I probably don't need this bike anymore but the emotional attachment is to real. It's close to paid off so I wait and half ass it around the track. I fit it w a aim mxk10. I need to figure out what the cool electronics for this bike are via track essentials. Also quick question about chain OEM is 112 link. I'm currently -1front and +5rear. I cut the chain to 114 links and it seems to loose with the 47....I can get the chain within track spec/street spec but I'm almost at the end of the new mark. Just worried it will stretch and put me toward the end of the adjusters.....thought about just cutting it down to 112 but I don't want to make it so I can't loosen to what I want on track/if I ever decided to run oem 15t front.

Couple hours with a a rivet gun, heat gun, some rattle cans and a crashed 07 zzr600 tail.
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OveRRev is one of the most knowledgeable OTF about these bikes.

Ohlins pxrls46 is a nice upgrade and worth the price....GP suspension has good cartridges for the front...possibly less $$$ than the Ohlins if you can find them used?

Liking that sv650, what's that bike weigh?
 

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In my haste to post a reply I forgot to mention a few things.

Take out the oil lock piece at the bottom of the forks & drill it using a 4mm drill bit, space the holes 90掳 apart. You don't want the oil lock piece to mess with compression damping during the last 20mm of fork travel, these forks are severely limited in that respect but I have found a way to increase the fork travel by 13mm by using a stock cartridge from another 600RR.

If you're on a budget you could just reshim the stock HMAS 4port valves, just copy the diameters & thicknesses of the Ohlins 20mm FPK shims & use 19-22cst fork oil (about 5W), set the oil level to 130mm & start from there.

I'm using 112L on my race bike with 14/43 or 44 sprockets, I wanted to lighten my drivetrain by using less links & smaller diameter sprockets which did the trick & it also has to do with anti-squat, been playing around with geometry on bikes and fine tuning the swingarm angle vs drive chain angle to get the amount of anti-squat just right. On the Gen5 ZX10R we run 15/39 with the stock chain links to get 599mm swingarm length and play with the swingarm pivot inserts & shock spacer thickness.
 

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OveRRev is one of the most knowledgeable OTF about these bikes.

Ohlins pxrls46 is a nice upgrade and worth the price....GP suspension has good cartridges for the front...possibly less $$$ than the Ohlins if you can find them used?

Liking that sv650, what's that bike weigh?
Thanks for the kind words!

I saw a 46PRXLS on eBay about 2weeks ago for $600+, was tempted to get it but I have more important priorities right now but that shock will require a refresh at minimum for track duty. Also looked at GP suspension trying to find a 25mm cartridge kit but they only have them for the 05-06, they only offer a 20mm fork piston kit for the 03-04 forks, reshimming would be a much cheaper alternative if budget is a concern.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So took the bike out today for a nice ride through the local gorge. It's as close to a track as I can get on this notice. Bike runs great, I can't complain. Suspension is the key. The sv I'd guess weighs in around 380-410 lbs. It's a great bike, I just need to dial in a issue with the quick shifter I'm having. I need to spend the day on one bike instead of switching all around. It's a translogic f series quick shifter and the bike runs perfect. If I put the fuse inline for the quickshifter as soon as I shift from neutral to 1st it stalls out like a kickstand issue. I have a kickstand eliminator thing on there as far as I know. It's weird if I put bike in 1st and try to start it, it will turn over forever.... Idk bike doesn't run when the blue light indicating power to the quick shifter is on. I need to spend next weekend checking it out or if I have time during the week.

Other than that it seems like you're definitely on top of the chassis development from years of trial and error. I might have to do that I need to look at the forks to get a better idea of what you mean. It would def help since I know it is in need of fork oil soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the kind words!

I saw a 46PRXLS on eBay about 2weeks ago for $600+, was tempted to get it but I have more important priorities right now but that shock will require a refresh at minimum for track duty. Also looked at GP suspension trying to find a 25mm cartridge kit but they only have them for the 05-06, they only offer a 20mm fork piston kit for the 03-04 forks, reshimming would be a much cheaper alternative if budget is a concern.
You're probably my competition on ebay currently 馃槀. I think it was the same shock. I just assumed 150 to have it rebuilt. I'm starting to learn that my research on suspension is only at the tip of the iceberg. I'm currently running 114 links on a 15/47 set on on the CBR. The zx10 I just went down one so I'm 16/39 520 kits on both. I need to just sit down and learn to build this fork set for now so I def will try moving the oil lock. Just about to eat then go back out and check the bike out. I'm down for anything in the short term like I said the fork oils got to be OEM stuff probably unless someone popped the seals sometime in this bikes life. Also, recommend any shops that build heads for the 05-06? I'm not capable of milling anything I much check out a local shop that machines blocks w a decent reputation. Hrc/oem gasket.....is the 03-04 gasket same as 05-07?
 

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The head gasket is pretty much the same across the years (03-06 & 07-21), the HRC head gasket I'm using on my 03 is for an 07+ 600RR. using a .55mm thick head gasket & had the cylinder milled .20mm & squish clearance came out at .64 to .66mm on different cylinders. Stock head gasket is .60mm thick so you need to check the stock squish clearance first before deciding how much to mill off the cylinders.

As for the cylinder head it's simply a matter of luck, if you manage to buy one of the early 05 heads they have better casting on the intake ports as the valve seat throat is flush with the port unlike some that has a step or ridge before the seat which reduces flow, I usually fill that up with epoxy & blend it to the seat.

The stock fork oil is Showa SS47 which has a 30-32cst, if you want more damping you can use 40-45cst fork oil which is generally a 10W. You cannot use anything thicker than a 45cst (15W+) as the orifice on the pistons are small & the cartridge will hydraulic lock on high shaft velocities (bumps & potholes). The stock springs are too soft & they're progressive too (8.1N) & at your weight you should be running a 10.0N, I'm 130lbs & I'm bottoming my forks with the 9.5N springs. Setting up the front end is important on this bike, once you get into the sweet spot the adjustments needed become minimal to achieve good results.

My experimental fork uses a 10.4N springs, Ohlins 20mm FPK, +4mm length , +13mm stroke (123mm) & 130mm oil level. Just need to find the time to test it out on the track, moving to a new location is such a PITA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The head gasket is pretty much the same across the years (03-06 & 07-21), the HRC head gasket I'm using on my 03 is for an 07+ 600RR. using a .55mm thick head gasket & had the cylinder milled .20mm & squish clearance came out at .64 to .66mm on different cylinders. Stock head gasket is .60mm thick so you need to check the stock squish clearance first before deciding how much to mill off the cylinders.

As for the cylinder head it's simply a matter of luck, if you manage to buy one of the early 05 heads they have better casting on the intake ports as the valve seat throat is flush with the port unlike some that has a step or ridge before the seat which reduces flow, I usually fill that up with epoxy & blend it to the seat.

The stock fork oil is Showa SS47 which has a 30-32cst, if you want more damping you can use 40-45cst fork oil which is generally a 10W. You cannot use anything thicker than a 45cst (15W+) as the orifice on the pistons are small & the cartridge will hydraulic lock on high shaft velocities (bumps & potholes). The stock springs are too soft & they're progressive too (8.1N) & at your weight you should be running a 10.0N, I'm 130lbs & I'm bottoming my forks with the 9.5N springs. Setting up the front end is important on this bike, once you get into the sweet spot the adjustments needed become minimal to achieve good results.

My experimental fork uses a 10.4N springs, Ohlins 20mm FPK, +4mm length , +13mm stroke (123mm) & 130mm oil level. Just need to find the time to test it out on the track, moving to a new location is such a PITA.
Yeah, ok now I'm following you on the head. I also maxed the stock adjuster and it literally feels like nothing changed. I will look into those tonight. I'm still a bit confused is this what I'm getting the extra 20mm out of?
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Yeah, ok now I'm following you on the head. I also maxed the stock adjuster and it literally feels like nothing changed. I will look into those tonight. I'm still a bit confused is this what I'm getting the extra 20mm out of? View attachment 225694
I didn't catch you on the last sentence, 20mm out of what exactly?

As for the compression damping adjuster at the bottom of the forks you'd use up all the adjustment & still not get enough damping because the shim stack is too soft. Reshimming or changing to an Ohlins FPK is the way to go.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I didn't catch you on the last sentence, 20mm out of what exactly?

As for the compression damping adjuster at the bottom of the forks you'd use up all the adjustment & still not get enough damping because the shim stack is too soft. Reshimming or changing to an Ohlins FPK is the way to go.
Ok I misread before, I keep finding them for around 300. That sound about right? Would I benefit from a new spring set from ohlins also?

I keep finding them as a universal kit for showa? Stg might be able to give me more info price wise on the wera forum.
 

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Ok I misread before, I keep finding them for around 300. That sound about right? Would I benefit from a new spring set from ohlins also?

I keep finding them as a universal kit for showa? Stg might be able to give me more info price wise on the wera forum.
Yes, those Ohlins 20mm Fork Piston Kits retail for around $300 a set, they're pretty easy to install, I can guide you through it.

The Ohlins fork spring kit only has the 9.0N spring available which is still a bit soft for your weight, K-Tech has 9.0 & 9.5 fork springs available but get the 9.5N (part # 40-250-95). Orient Express sells K-Tech in the USA, try calling them first.

Another alternative is to use a stock fork springs from the 08 CBR1000RR which are 10.4N & cut the spacers to accomodate the shorter length of the fork springs which is what I have done, should be plenty on eBay for used ones.
 
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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yes, those Ohlins 20mm Fork Piston Kits retail for around $300 a set, they're pretty easy to install, I can guide you through it.

The Ohlins fork spring kit only has the 9.0N spring available which is still a bit soft for your weight, K-Tech has 9.0 & 9.5 fork springs available but get the 9.5N (part # 40-250-95). Orient Express sells K-Tech in the USA, try calling them first.

Another alternative is to use a stock fork springs from the 08 CBR1000RR which are 10.4N & cut the spacers to accomodate the shorter length of the fork springs which is what I have done, should be plenty on eBay for used ones.
That's definitely the route I'm going to go. Do you think that budget setup would be comparable to an cart kit? The more I talk w you about it the more this is starting to all make sense. I'll start searching around a little bit on lunch. Really if I can get by on these for the rest of the season for 600 or less for comparable performance I'm in
 
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