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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had recently just bought a 2003 Honda CBR600RR, and unfortunately I am thinking that there is some engine noise that isn't necessarily normal. From what I have read on here, the cam chain tensioner is a big source of noise issues on these bikes, but I am not sure if my noise is too similar. To me(not too mechanically inclined), it just sounds like a pretty noticeable valve tick, or engine knock. The bike seems to ride relatively normal, but it seems through certain rpm ranges and especially when slowly accelerating and decelerating(mainly just sounds like a rattle/pinging to me)

I had taken 3 videos of the engine running, but for some reason my phone is having issues right now and is refusing to upload 2 out 3 videos, and it only uploaded the worst/shortest video. I guess I will just post the link to that one now and see if anyone can tell anything from that, and when I can I will try to upload the other two. Thanks

 

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cam chain tensioner I have an 03 and did same thing after bike shop put 50 wght repsol in it. 50$ later put the APE manual in and no noise. Its worse when your actually riding it than it is with it parked ill bet on accel and decel
 

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cam chain tensioner I have an 03 and did same thing after bike shop put 50 wght repsol in it. 50$ later put the APE manual in and no noise. Its worse when your actually riding it than it is with it parked ill bet on accel and decel
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Crap.
You beat us to it. :cursin:

That's 99% most likely what it is.

If that does not fix it, could be a loose valve. :banghead:


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Will this affect performance at all? My bike makes the same noises and also seems to be somewhat of a dog under 9k. It's also an 03' with only a drop tooth as far as mods go.
 

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Fantastic. Going today to buy a new CCT. Any reason I shouldn't replace it with another stock automatic tensioner?
 

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Fantastic. Going today to buy a new CCT. Any reason I shouldn't replace it with another stock automatic tensioner?
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It will eventually crap out and do the same thing.

If your not going to keep the bike longer then 12 months or so. Just get a stock one. It should last that long.

Otherwise... the manual one as recommended above. :gun1:

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Go with an APE manual adjusting one. It's about as simple as a CCT can possibly get. All you have to do is keep up with maintenance and checking that the cam chain is at the right tension at regular intervals.
 

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I'm sure there is a write up but for simplicity's sake, how do I know the cam chain is at proper tension? I read somewhere, I need to tighten the adjuster screw until the majority of the valve tick at idle quiets down. Are there any special tools I need to perform this task? I'm very mechanically inclined, I'd just like to know in advance. Thanks guys.
 

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I'm sure there is a write up but for simplicity's sake, how do I know the cam chain is at proper tension? I read somewhere, I need to tighten the adjuster screw until the majority of the valve tick at idle quiets down. Are there any special tools I need to perform this task? I'm very mechanically inclined, I'd just like to know in advance. Thanks guys.
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Regular Socket Set. It's pretty straight forward swap.

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Ok that's great. However I still need to know what sound will indicate I'm at the proper tension.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
.....

Well, thanks for the responses.....so theres no really way to decipher the difference in noise between the cam chain and a valve? Sometimes especially on deceleration, it sounds almost exactly like a rattling chain, but at idle and other times, to me it seems more like a valve. But I guess what do I know, I will probably have a local shop check it real quick for me.
 

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Go with an APE manual adjusting one. It's about as simple as a CCT can possibly get. All you have to do is keep up with maintenance and checking that the cam chain is at the right tension at regular intervals.
I have had an APE for a while now, however I have not checked it. Is there a set amount of tension that is supposed to be on the chain? What is the best way to make sure that there is not to much tension? Would taking the Cyclinder head cover off be the easiest way to verify my 2 questions above?

I was actually going to break it down this weekend and make sure all was good. Then saw this post..
 
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I have had an APE for a while now, however I have not checked it. Is there a set amount of tension that is supposed to be on the chain? What is the best way to make sure that there is not to much tension? Would taking the Cyclinder head cover off be the easiest way to verify my 2 questions above?

I was actually going to break it down this weekend and make sure all was good. Then saw this post..
Use the search feature, or go on WERA's forum and search.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok a little update here. I had brought the bike to a local shop, and after talking to the guy working on it today, I am pretty sure he said that he checked and the stock automatic tensioner was stuck back in the furthest position which was having the cam chain be as loose as possible. He said he that he bled the hydraulic tensioner, re-oiled it and put it back in, but he said it was still making noise but he said that tensioner seemed to be working ok. I guess what he was saying what the problem was there are also two other "rod" type tensioners that should need replacing, and he also said he wants to replace the cam chain itself. But he said that since he would want to replace the cam chain, and those two other tensioners, that I might as well change the hydraulic tensioner too. He said that if I got the cam chain and everything else replaced, the labor was going to be around 8 hours worth.

My questions:
First, with only ~6000 miles on this 2003, is it possible that the cam chain needs to be replaced at this point, and what is the typical replacement mileage for it?

Second, I know many people replace the hydraulic type tensioner, but do failure/wearing of those other 2 tensioners usually happen?

Third, does 8 hours to replace a cam chain sound right for this bike?

I appreciate the help.
 

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I have 47k kms (~30k miles) on mine and the cct and cam chain are fine, what you need done and what he wants to do are not the same thing.
Take it to another shop and get their opinion but an APE tensioner will probably be all you need and you can do the job yourself. Total cost should be around $50 - $100.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Yea, I understand that mechanics live on more work so I am usually not very trusting of what they are wanting to do. But, is it possible that it is truly in need of replacing at this point. Would the sole reason of the actual cam chain needing replacing if the tensioner is too loose, and the chain stretches out or something like that? On one hand, I would want to replace it if he is truly being honest about everything, but there is no way in hell I want to pay 8 hours of labor plus more in parts. I just don't know what to do at this point.
 

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It is possible that damage has been done to the chain, if I were you I would be taking to another shop and getting their opinion, if its the same take the cheapest.
 
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