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Discussion Starter #1
So i had to replace my throttle bodies (long story) and put the new ones in no problem. Everything was connected from what I could tell and all the injectors were connected. After putting everything back together I tried to fire it up... nothing. It would turn over, but would not start. I didn't get that pressurizing sound when you turn the kill switch to "on" so I was getting no fuel, and also I kept frying 10amp fuses for my fan.

so... any ideas? I really don’t want to have to tear it all apart again :( The only things I can think of is the vacuum line is improperly connected, or one clear connecter beside the spedo is not connected.

thanks in advance
 

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start with the simple stuff first

if the fuel pump isnt priming

make sure that the easy things like kill switch is on, clutch in or in neutral.

BAS plugged in, MIL lights, all those little sensors like TPS, IAC, etc plugged in under the air box?
frying the fuse usually means a short. you may have pinched a wire during installation and it is grounding out to the body.

still the fan shouldnt stop the fuel pump from kicking on because you can run the bike with the fan unplugged
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well the bike wouldn’t even turn over if the kill switch was disengaged or bike wasn’t in neutral. The clear connecter I mentioned earlier was just my 3rd headlight so scratch that, and also I re plugged all the wired to the throttle bodies still nothing... if anyone has any other theory’s please let me know
 

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well the bike wouldn’t even turn over if the kill switch was disengaged or bike wasn’t in neutral. The clear connecter I mentioned earlier was just my 3rd headlight so scratch that, and also I re plugged all the wired to the throttle bodies still nothing... if anyone has any other theory’s please let me know
wrong
bike will turn over with kill switch engaged
 

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Discussion Starter #7
is it possible that this problem could be caused by the vacume hose, and the blow off hose being connected wrong? My vacume hose is connected to the right of my throttle bodies, and the left hand side one is cloged.?
 
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is it possible that this problem could be caused by the vacume hose, and the blow off hose being connected wrong? My vacume hose is connected to the right of my throttle bodies, and the left hand side one is cloged.?
no. if the fuel pump isn't priming, it's electrical or it's the pump.

have you checked the Fuel Cutoff Relay yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
actually funny you should mention that, I just finished checking that and i noticed that the continuity between the "free" starter switch (name that the honda service manual calls it) is contantly having conducvity regardless of the possition of the switch. Could this be what is causing the problem? also it seems to pressureize when then fuel switch is on "off" and i hold the starter switch down. **** i hate electrical :p
 
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actually funny you should mention that, I just finished checking that and i noticed that the continuity between the "free" starter switch (name that the honda service manual calls it) is contantly having conducvity regardless of the possition of the switch. Could this be what is causing the problem? also it seems to pressureize when then fuel switch is on "off" and i hold the starter switch down. **** i hate electrical :p
sounds to me like you've found the problem.
 
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just so it's clarified here (because he and i have been conversing via PM) that the Fuel Cutoff Relay has been found to be malfunctioning. his problem is not related to the red switch on the grip but rather an electrical component on the left side of the bike under the mid fairing.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
and your my knight in shinning armor. would i be able to replace that fuel cut off with my fan amp and run it like that? or do i NEED all 3 to complete the circut?
 
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keep looking for a fault. is the pump getting any power at all? trace your wires back from there.

The relay wasn't THE problem, however it did need to be replaced. agreed?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
no they were all running at .9 olms...? Pump works, somehow when my handlebar switch was turned to off and i tried starting the bike it would pressurize...
gonna try and get one of the tech's from work to bring me one of those diagnostic plug in tests
 
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no they were all running at .9 olms...? Pump works, somehow when my handlebar switch was turned to off and i tried starting the bike it would pressurize...
gonna try and get one of the tech's from work to bring me one of those diagnostic plug in tests
dude, there's only one way to test relays. you apply power to them, and test the two leads (the other two prongs). if they aren't producing continuity when power is applied, they are faulty. how were you testing the relays? the resistance should have been 0 or damn close only when power is supplied, and massive resistance when power isn't applied.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
connected a 12v power source to the two copper prongs and checked conductivity on the other to, no they were all running at .9 olms belive it or not....
 
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