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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I’ve been diagnosing issues for my 2005 CBR600RR for a few weeks now. Now I’m stuck scratching my head because I cannot figure out why my main wire harness plug isn’t getting any power from the starter solenoid. (I am referring to the red plug that plugs into the top of the starter solenoid and covers the top of the fuse) If I put a test lead from the positive terminal of the battery to the inside of the red wire coming out of the plug, the dash turns on and it seems like the bike is getting power. So I’m not sure why when it’s plugged in and everything’s set, once I turn the key there just nothing. What could possibly be causing this? Again, when I put direct power to that red wire coming out of the plug; the bike gets power.
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Do you see B and M next to big battery terminals of starter solenoid?
 

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Those wires look in a bad way. Have you checked them for breaks and continuity from end to end?
Have you checked the main 30amp fuse?
Yeah wiring's in bad shape and should be redone. Don't doubt they can be contributing to your problems. Easy enough to replace: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XC7KY6S/
Also non-factory starter-solenoid should be probed and tested for proper pin-outs. May not match factory connector.

Yes, I believe the poles are correct/polarity is correct
Broken starter solenoid then, that's why you're not getting power at red wire
Measure resistance between B terminal and each of 4 connector terminals (unplug connector 1st)
1. ohms = ???
2. ohms = ???
3. ohms = ???
4. ohms = ???


Only way to "check" fuse. I'd be trillionaire if I had dollar for every time I heard, "Fuse looks OK", but actually didn't conduct electricity. Actually fired mechanic from my shop for not measuring and wasting tonne of time & money swapping out entire fuel & ignition system.



remember: "There never seems to be enough time to fix things right 1st time around, but there's always time to do it again! Often times, on side of road in total darkness and rain!!!
 

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BTW - Saw in your earlier post that igntion-switch was bypassed so you didn't have key? Did you get new OEM igntion-switch?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
BTW - Saw in your earlier post that igntion-switch was bypassed so you didn't have key? Did you get new OEM igntion-switch?
Yes I’ve installed a new switch and it works as it should when I put direct power to that red wire in the plug/connector that’s pictured
 

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Starter solenoid isn't original, it might be bad. There's 4 different ways they can be configured. Do those 4 measurements and we can figure out how it works. Or you can just replace it with OEM one from authorised Honda dealer. Don't buy aftermarket one or we'll have to do same 4 measurements like existing one to figure it out.
 

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Here's simple test, just swap battery-cables on starter-solenoid. Put cable that was connected to B-terminal onto M-terminal. And vice-versa. Now do you have power on red-wire?

If not, then starter-solenoid is broken or 30-amp fuse is blown. Measure it, don't replace. If you do, measure replacement 1st before using.

You have no idea what's busted and what's working because you're not testing & measuring. This is literally a 5-minute fix!!! Gimme a call and I'll walk you through what to measure and that'll tell us exactly how to fix it in less than 5-minutes!!!
 

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Do you see B and M next to big battery terminals of starter solenoid?
Yes, I believe the poles are correct/polarity is correct
Here's why you need to actually check, test and verify:



Starter solenoids can come with B and M terminals reversed. Whoever replaced solenoid on your bike didn't pay attention to terminal markings. Just because factory solenoid had Battery cable on right and starter Motor cable on left doesn't mean replacement one should have cables in same orientation. It's actually attaching cables to proper markings on solenoid that's important.

Here's what correct cable connection looks like:

1. Battery +positive cable connects directly to B terminal of solenoid
2. Power goes through 30-amp fuse and
3. out red wire to ignition switch
4. When power comes back from start-button, solenoid connects B terminal to M and sends power to starter-Motor.

Here's what happens when you have B and M cables reversed:

1. Battery power goes to M terminal and just stops because M terminal's not connected to anything
2. Red wire going to ignition-switch connects through 30-amp fuse to starter-motor which provides no power. Sounds familiar?
 
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Here's simple tests for correct battery/starter cables connection on starter-solenoid. Even defective starter-solenoid will send power to ignition-switch.

1. measure voltage at B terminal of starter solenoid. It should be connected direct to battery +positive terminal. So should read same power as battery. IF you have no power here, cables are reversed:


2. next, back-probe fuse inlet terminal. Again, should read exact same as battery


3. then back-probe fuse outlet terminal. If fuse is good, should read exacy same as battery


4. probe outlet terminal of 4-pin terminal. Again, should be same as battery



Here's some possible outcomes of these tests:

1. no power at B terminal - this is simple fix. Just swap cables on B and M terminals of starter solenoid

4. IF tests #1-3 passes and you have still no power at output terminal to ignition-switch - then 4-pin plug isn't configured correctly. Measure voltage at all 4 output terminals and de-pin connector and put red wire into position with power.

It's very possible someone put that red wire into incorrect position.


Considering green ground wire's not even plugged in on your bike, there's additional problems awaiting you once you get power to ignition-switch properly.
 
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Since you're so resistant to testing and fixing this in 5-minutes, quick analysis of your photo shows obvious problem.



You've got your starter-solenoid cables BACKWARDS!!!
Battery cable should be connected to B-terminal and starter motor connected to M-terminal.
See this post on how to fix. NO START- NO POWER TO HARNESS PLUG INTO STARTER SOLENOID

Starter-cable ring-terminal's also gonna cause you problems once you've swapped cables. It'll most likely burn up and stop working after 1st week (if you manage to secure it somehow). Then replace it with proper solder-lug: https://remybattery.com/cable-conne...gs/1-2-gauge-fusion-straight-solder-lug.html#

Here's how to properly install solder-lug to last forever 1st time around. I'd rather spend my time riding and racing bikes than continually fixing same problems over and over again.


Or use hydraulic hex-crimper:


remember: "There never seems to be enough time to fix things right 1st time around, but there's always time to do it again! Often times, on side of road in total darkness and rain!!!
 

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If you plan on getting this bike running and keeping it alive, you really gotta learn to test and measure with instruments. You're not Superman and can see electrons flowing in wires. As mere mortals, we need technology to extend our senses. Again, you could've fixed this in 5-minutes with testing using multimeter instead of running around in circles for weeks.

1. How to use multimeter

2. Harbor Freight - basic multimeter
 
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