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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This’ll be my 3rd cbr 600rr 2003-2004 but this one isn’t getting spark. It has an 06 motor, harness, Ecu , injectors, swing arm and forks. Bought the bike as it sits, the fuel pump primes the ignition is OEM, new battery changed the stator and spark plugs along with the ignition coils and I still cannot obtain spark any ideas?I’ve tested the stator, ignition coils and pulse pickup which all tested fine.
 

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How do I go about checking that?
This is most important tool you'll ever use. Save you tonne of money and time.
Learn to use it to measure voltage, resistance and current.

As for grounds, there's main ground cable between battery-negative terminal and engine. And there's multiple ground-wires on harness that converge and meet at common point and bolts to frame. You'll want to measure resistance across these various ground-points and get reading of "0.0 ohms". Meaning all wires are connected and have no resistance.

Due to exposed wiring and not top-quality construction (expensive), wiring can get green/black wire disease and not conduct any electricity (or poorly). Measuring them is way to discover green/black wire disease since it's hidden.




Same thing with measuring voltage to ignition-coils. First measure voltage at battery, say... 13.5v. Then key ON, measure voltage at coil-connector on harness. Should read exactly same 13.5v. Otherwise, you've got some wiring problems like broken or corroded wires and connectors.

This is what's required to troubleshoot and fix these problems. Process of testing, measuring and coming up with numbers. Then compare these numbers to standards in manual to identify problem areas.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
This is most important tool you'll ever use. Save you tonne of money and time.
Learn to use it to measure voltage, resistance and current.

As for grounds, there's main ground cable between battery-negative terminal and engine. And there's multiple ground-wires on harness that converge and meet at common point and bolts to frame. You'll want to measure resistance across these various ground-points and get reading of "0.0 ohms". Meaning all wires are connected and have no resistance.

Due to exposed wiring and not top-quality construction (expensive), wiring can get green/black wire disease and not conduct any electricity (or poorly). Measuring them is way to discover green/black wire disease since it's hidden.




Same thing with measuring voltage to ignition-coils. First measure voltage at battery, say... 13.5v. Then key ON, measure voltage at coil-connector on harness. Should read exactly same 13.5v. Otherwise, you've got some wiring problems like broken or corroded wires and connectors.

This is what's required to troubleshoot and fix these problems. Process of testing, measuring and coming up with numbers. Then compare these numbers to standards in manual to identify problem areas.

ive Tested everything but my question is how do I test continuity from the bike to the Ecu?
 

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You'll find that in most cases, there are no bad parts. Typically it's wiring and connectors.

To test continuity of wires:

1. if it delivers power, then if you measure power at one end, then measure exact same voltage at other end, you can assume wire is good with no breaks

2. for other wires, you measure resistance between each end of wire. So set meter to lowest scale 0-200 ohms. Touch probes together to verify zero reading. If not zero, remember that number to subtract from readings to get true resistance value. Then place one probe on one end of wire and other probe on other end of wire. Ideally you want no resistance, 0.0 ohms

 
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In this case, it's extremely unlikely that you've got bad wiring between ECU and coils. Because all four wires would have to break at exactly same time. Heck with 3 out of 4 wires broken, engine would still have combustion and idle extremely uneven. Not likely at all that all 4 wires broke at same time.

Problem is most likely upstream:

1. power to all coils comes from single source and should powered ON to full battery voltage any time key is ON.

2. ECU fires coils in sequence by grounding other side of coil from power terminal. You can't measure grounding pulses because they're too short. You can use an oscilloscope to see signal on each coil-trigger from ECU. Would be full-voltage most of time, then drop to zero when ECU grounds wire to fire sparks

Or use solenoid-light which lights up when it detects grounding pulse. It has duration-extending circuitry to stay longer so human eyes can see it flashing.

If ECU is not triggering sparks, then problem may be upstream. Crank & cam sensors or their wiring may be bad. Or it could be bad ECU.

What mods to wiring does this bike have? Piggyback tuner? Fog-lights, heated grip, accessory socket, alarm?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No mods done to the bike at all. It’s completely bare. No extra accessories or anything just not getting spark. Actually I’ve seen it spark just a tad for 0.5 seconds and I’ve never seen that spark again after 20 more attempted starts.
 

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SM? And no wiring diagram
SM = Service Manual. You should definitely get one.

Schematic Rectangle Font Parallel Engineering


dannoxyz, correct me if I'm wrong, but the Engine Stop relay should be good otherwise it wouldn't prime the fuel pump. If the Side Stand switch, clutch switch, or safety neutral switch were bad it wouldn't crank over at all. So I would focus on the Cam pulse generator or the Ignition pulse generator.

FYI, I did replace my Cam pulse generator several years ago on my '04. The wiring color scheme changed between the '03-04 models and the '05-06 models. So the color scheme above may not be the same as yours but the diagram and the PIN connectors should be the same.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
SM = Service Manual. You should definitely get one.

View attachment 228056

dannoxyz, correct me if I'm wrong, but the Engine Stop relay should be good otherwise it wouldn't prime the fuel pump. If the Side Stand switch, clutch switch, or safety neutral switch were bad it wouldn't crank over at all. So I would focus on the Cam pulse generator or the Ignition pulse generator.

FYI, I did replace my Cam pulse generator several years ago on my '04. The wiring color scheme changed between the '03-04 models and the '05-06 models. So the color scheme above may not be the same as yours but the diagram and the PIN connectors should be the same.
And that’s what I was thinking if certain sensors weren’t working it wouldn’t crank at all. I’ve tested both sensor and they’ve tested within “spec” I thought. Is it worth replacing them just in case?
 

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Tested both pulse generators? Or both safety switches?

I would favor bypassing around the safety switches before spending money to replace them. If the bike runs after bypassing them then I'd replace them regardless of how they tested.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Tested both pulse generators? Or both safety switches?

I would favor bypassing around the safety switches before spending money to replace them. If the bike runs after bypassing them then I'd replace them regardless of how they tested.
Ok just now seeing this I will just replace the part I have 2 other motors that still have the parts attached luckily
 

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SM = Service Manual. You should definitely get one.

View attachment 228056

dannoxyz, correct me if I'm wrong, but the Engine Stop relay should be good otherwise it wouldn't prime the fuel pump. If the Side Stand switch, clutch switch, or safety neutral switch were bad it wouldn't crank over at all. So I would focus on the Cam pulse generator or the Ignition pulse generator.

FYI, I did replace my Cam pulse generator several years ago on my '04. The wiring color scheme changed between the '03-04 models and the '05-06 models. So the color scheme above may not be the same as yours but the diagram and the PIN connectors should be the same.
The safety-interloc switches are connected to both ECU and starter-circuit. Just tested following on my '05:

  • kill-switch OFF = YES cranks, NO spark
  • clutch-switch unplugged = YES cranks, NO spark
  • sidestand-switch unplugged = YES cranks, NO spark
  • neutral-switch unplugged = NO crank, NO spark

He's already tested crank & cam sensors and said they're OK. So I would measure these switches next. Also measure that blk/wht power-wire from Engine Stop Relay to ECU and coils. They may not be getting any power.

It's usually faster to work upstream down rather than bottom up because upstream failures can take out lots of components downstream. Rather than replacing all coils, all injectors, cam/crank sensors, it might just be a single fuse or relay upstream that's the problem. Usually I recommend start with measuring battery 1st, then follow flow of electricity down to end components. Where power stops is the problem. I'm betting it's single switch that's broken or coils not having power (broken wire or corroded connector).

It's so much faster to test and measure and find actual problem part than randomly shotgunning pile of parts at bike. Especially used parts, which needs to be tested and measured anyway to confirm they're good enough to use. For that effort, might as well test existing parts on bike to see if they're good. No need to yank & pull parts from 2 different bikes and risk damaging them or wiring in process.
 
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No mods done to the bike at all. It’s completely bare. No extra accessories or anything just not getting spark. Actually I’ve seen it spark just a tad for 0.5 seconds and I’ve never seen that spark again after 20 more attempted starts.
Ok, this is BIG clue...

1. measure battery voltage with everything OFF
2. measure battery voltage during cranking, volts = ???
3. pull ALL fuses
4. measure continuity/resistance across each fuse's legs, especially that 20a EFI fuse on 2nd circuit from battery.

I'd be trillionaire if I had penny for every time I heard, "Fuse looks OK", but actually didn't conduct electricity.



The working for 0.5s then dying is indicative of overloaded circuit that blows fuse. Might have short-circuit in ignition-coil circuit somewhere...
 
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