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Discussion Starter · #123 ·
Well darn!!! Was hoping this harness would be better than previous one. Ok, remove tape and let's look at what kind of damage their is.
It’s the front harness I haven’t replaced it. I only replaced the main engine harness. But I’ll get to unraveling this artwork. You think that would stop the bike from sparking?
 

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Next, let's test ignition-coils and wiring between coils & ECU.


1. remove #1 coil, plug it into its harness connector
2. insert spark plug into coil
3. ground casing of plug, perhaps jumper-cable to chassis-ground
4. find #1 coil-trigger wire at ECU connector
5. insert tiny brad-nail into connector so wire is accessible externally
6. run jumper wire from battery -neg terminal to near ECU connector
7. key ON
8. repeatedly tap jumper wire to trigger wire/nail at ECU connector

Do you see spark? Repeat for other coils and corresponding trigger wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
Next, let's test ignition-coils and wiring between coils & ECU.


1. remove #1 coil, plug it into its harness connector
2. insert spark plug into coil
3. ground casing of plug, perhaps jumper-cable to chassis-ground
4. find #1 coil-trigger wire at ECU connector
5. insert tiny brad-nail into connector so wire is accessible externally
6. run jumper wire from battery -neg terminal to near ECU connector
7. key ON
8. repeatedly tap jumper wire to trigger wire at ECU connector

Do you see spark? Repeat for other coils and corresponding trigger wire.
That’s a bit confusing to me can you make a video showing me how? Or send me a picture on showing me ?
 

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No videos unless it's for your specific model and year bike. That's why you wasted so much time messing with stators and regulators when they had nothing to do with no-spark problem.

Don't try to figure it out in your head. Do it one step at a time with your hands. Where do you get stuck?

Here's conceptual guide video. We want to test on-bike to verify wiring between ECU connector to coils is functional. Only thing different is we are manually triggering coils instead of ECU.

Also keep battery on trickle-charger.
 

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Discussion Starter · #127 ·
No videos unless it's for your specific model and year bike. That's why you wasted so much time messing with stators and regulators when they had nothing to do with no-spark problem.

Don't try to figure it out in your head. Do it one step at a time with your hands. Where do you get stuck?

Here's conceptual guide video. We want to test on-bike to verify wiring between ECU connector to coils is functional. Only thing different is we are manually triggering coils instead of ECU.

Also keep battery on trickle-charger.
Gotcha, just to be sure I’m removing the Ecu while performing this test? Because I don’t know a pin thin enough for to stick in the Ecu while connected.
 

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Gotcha, just to be sure I’m removing the Ecu while performing this test? Because I don’t know a pin thin enough for to stick in the Ecu while connected.
Yes, we are testing wiring, coils and plugs. So remove ECU. Then tapping nail with negative-ground wire is doing same thing as ECU to fire spark.

Also while you're there, measure voltage at blk/wht wire terminal with key ON. Volts = ???
 
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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
Yes, we are testing wiring, coils and plugs. So remove ECU. Then tapping nail with negative-ground wire is doing same thing as ECU to fire spark.

Also while you're there, measure voltage at blk/wht wire terminal with key ON. Volts = ???
Ok so I tested each coil like you said and received spark from each coil! I got 12.5 volts from the black and white wire! Sooooo I’m guessing I have a faulty ECU?
 

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Good job! Only thing left is either ECU or crank/cam sensors.

However, there is remote possibility that start of all this is caused by short between power-wires of injectors/coils being shorted to ECU trigger wires. This provides zero-resistance path for power to flow from power-wires to ECU without current limit. Would certainly fry ECU.

1. did you replace injector & coil sub-harness?

2. test both ECUs you have on another bike that's known to be working. This alleviates concern that bad wiring on your bike would fry good ECU. Does your ECU work on other bike?

3. measure impedance/resistance of cam & crank sensors at ECU connector.
cam = gry + grn/org , ohms = ???
crank = yel + grn/org , ohms = ???

4. also take off side-cover and verify position of trigger bumps on flywheel. Measure gap
between trigger and sensor

5. repeat for cam-sensor

Really need oscilloscope to view output waveforms of these sensors to verify.
 
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Discussion Starter · #131 ·
1.I’ve tested the coil harness with 2 known good working ones so they all measure accurate voltage.

2. Unfortunately the other bike I have is an 03-04 cbr 600 so the ECU is different. so there’s no way for me to verify

3. I picked a manual 2 days ago and I’ve measured the cam and crank. They’re within spec. Cam measured .46 ohms I believe and the crank measured .41 ohms with in spec. And I checked for continuity on both to which neither had so they both tested good.

4. Ok I have the manual to measure it and I think that told me how.

5I’ve done it lol

Should I take the shot and order the ECU ? Lol
 

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Certainly looks like we're narrowed it down to just ECU as culprit. Let's do one final test:
get blink codes for any errors:

1. key OFF, kill-switch OFF
2. locate DLC diagnostic connector and remove cover
3. make short U-shaped jumper wire and connect GRN to BRN terminals
4. key ON
5. kill-switch to RUN
6. MIL light on clocks should flash error-codes (if any)

We'll also need to measure for shorts between power-lines and trigger-wires of injector and coil harnesses. Otherwise, it may fry any ECUs you may get. I'll write up tests in bit once I track down which wires in ECU connector
 

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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
Just ran the test and literally it told me I have every code stored lol. i got 12,13,14,15 all the way up to 19. I may have gotten 48 and 49 also. I’ve verified some of these sensors on the bike and I know they are working such as the crank and cam sensor. So I think this ECU is way out of wack.
Publication Newspaper Font Material property News
 

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Those may be stored codes from past events such as disconnecting injector connectors to measure. Let's clear out codes and see if any comes back:

1. key OFF, kill-switch OFF
2. install DLC jumper on brn & grn wires
3. key ON, kill-switch RUN
4. disconnect DLC jumper
5. re-connect DLC jumper within 5-seconds
6. MIL light goes off and then starts blinking at regular internals, memory erased.

Then re-do previous procedure to get codes to flash and see what's left.

Did you measure cam/crank sensors at ECU connectors?
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 · (Edited)
ok no codes anymore they’re cleared. So attempting to start the bike while cranking the bike the spark will be there it’s just very intermittent. I did this by testing all 4 spark plugs in the coil and grounding the plug to the engine. Again they all spark intermittently Sooo is it really the ECU? I’ve checked and tested everything you said and what the manual said.
 

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Can a pulse generator test within spec (mine tests .41-42 ohms) and still be faulty?
yes, if trigger teeth are too far away from sensor, it would do that.
Or teeth are damaged or deformed.

I've seen instances where completely incompatible flywheels were installed with wrong trigger pattern.
 

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Measure air-gap between triggers and sensor on both. Either one being off can cause this problem.
 
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