It’s the front harness I haven’t replaced it. I only replaced the main engine harness. But I’ll get to unraveling this artwork. You think that would stop the bike from sparking?Well darn!!! Was hoping this harness would be better than previous one. Ok, remove tape and let's look at what kind of damage their is.
That’s a bit confusing to me can you make a video showing me how? Or send me a picture on showing me ?Next, let's test ignition-coils and wiring between coils & ECU.
1. remove #1 coil, plug it into its harness connector
2. insert spark plug into coil
3. ground casing of plug, perhaps jumper-cable to chassis-ground
4. find #1 coil-trigger wire at ECU connector
5. insert tiny brad-nail into connector so wire is accessible externally
6. run jumper wire from battery -neg terminal to near ECU connector
7. key ON
8. repeatedly tap jumper wire to trigger wire at ECU connector
Do you see spark? Repeat for other coils and corresponding trigger wire.
Gotcha, just to be sure I’m removing the Ecu while performing this test? Because I don’t know a pin thin enough for to stick in the Ecu while connected.No videos unless it's for your specific model and year bike. That's why you wasted so much time messing with stators and regulators when they had nothing to do with no-spark problem.
Don't try to figure it out in your head. Do it one step at a time with your hands. Where do you get stuck?
Here's conceptual guide video. We want to test on-bike to verify wiring between ECU connector to coils is functional. Only thing different is we are manually triggering coils instead of ECU.
Also keep battery on trickle-charger.
Yes, we are testing wiring, coils and plugs. So remove ECU. Then tapping nail with negative-ground wire is doing same thing as ECU to fire spark.Gotcha, just to be sure I’m removing the Ecu while performing this test? Because I don’t know a pin thin enough for to stick in the Ecu while connected.
Ok so I tested each coil like you said and received spark from each coil! I got 12.5 volts from the black and white wire! Sooooo I’m guessing I have a faulty ECU?Yes, we are testing wiring, coils and plugs. So remove ECU. Then tapping nail with negative-ground wire is doing same thing as ECU to fire spark.
Also while you're there, measure voltage at blk/wht wire terminal with key ON. Volts = ???
yes, if trigger teeth are too far away from sensor, it would do that.Can a pulse generator test within spec (mine tests .41-42 ohms) and still be faulty?
So should I check the sensor at the right side cover or where should I go from here?yes, if trigger teeth are too far away from sensor, it would do that.
Or teeth are damaged or deformed.
I've seen instances where completely incompatible flywheels were installed with wrong trigger pattern.