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i just went to the dealer to pick up some oil.. the guy suggested that i use 40 instead of 50.. however, the first time i picked up some oil, the some other guy recommeded 50.. i live in houston if that helps answer the question..

also, i got 3 quarts of 40.. is there going to be a problem if i top it off with 50? u have an extra quart of 50 so i only bought 3 quarts instead of 4.
 

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Stick with 40 weight oil no matter what they tell you in the dealerships. I was told the same thing. The 50 weight is too heavy for these bikes even though Honda says you can use it. You don't need a 50 weight oil.

There are more threads out there. Just do a search for "oil ticking" and my user name.
http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=46241&highlight=ticking
 

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^
good thread, now i know why my bike ticks.

i just put in 10w-50, the shop recommended it here due to the temperature during the summer. after the bike reaches about 100 degrees the ticking goes away.

my question is that although 50 may be a little too heavy under normal circumstances, it still has the 10w rating for low temp operation and the 50 rating for high temp operations, so it shouldnt make that much of a difference. 10w-40 and 10w-50 would flow the same at 100 degrees, the difference is how they flow at 210 degrees, which is roughly the temps they measure it at.

so 10w-50 will flow the same at lower temps, yet offer more protection in hot weather. out by me my bike will hit 235 regularly, and may overheat, and id rather have slightly heavier oil than destroy my engine if it overheats.

right?
 

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well my locall dealer said once you hit over 20,xxx km's to switch over to 10w50 . he said it was better for high mileage motors.
 

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The 50 (or 40) is the low temp viscosity and the 10 is the high temp. 50 is too thick when the bike is cold. These motors have tight tolerences and need 40 when cold to prevent premature wear.
 

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cjm250 said:
The 50 (or 40) is the low temp viscosity and the 10 is the high temp. 50 is too thick when the bike is cold. These motors have tight tolerences and need 40 when cold to prevent premature wear.

i dont think so. the "w" stands for winter, ie cold. viscostity refers to the pour point of oil. so 10 would mean a relativly low pour point, or thinner, and 60 would mean a thicker oil with a higher pour point.

the multigrade oils add the w after the first letter to emphasise winter rating. 10w-50 means that at cold temps the viscosity acts as a SAE 10, or not thick, and at high temps retains its pour point like a SAE 50.

Therefore and heretoever and whatever else, a 10w-50 should not cause any problems with a cold engine b/c they are the same viscosity at cold. they only difference is at hotter temps the higher viscosity hot rating means that it wont lube quite as easily as a 10w-40, but it will retain its lubricating properties if the bike overheats.
 

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roguegeek said:
You should read the owner's manual. 10w40 is recommended for most temperatures.

I know whats in the owners manual. im pretty sure it recommends leaving the stock exhaust and turn signals on too, but how many of us have modified these parts.

and im not sure if MOST temps include the 100+ degree heat coupled with all the smog (which impairs cooling) out by me in the summer.
 

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Listen to what the BIKE is telling you. Not the dealerships. They sell you 50 weight oil because it cost more. That's thier motive. Not to "help" you or your bike. Changing your oil in a timely manner is the key to engine life. Not running heavier oil that makes the engine work HARDER and produce LESS Hp. How does the dealer know that the tolerances of the bike have detereated after 20k miles? Hogwash! Since when is 20k miles considered "high mileage"?

If you're fine with running your CCT dry for the first few minutes of start-up go right ahead. But I wouldn't recommend it.
 

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NewRedRider said:
Listen to what the BIKE is telling you. Not the dealerships. They sell you 50 weight oil because it cost more. That's thier motive. Not to "help" you or your bike. Changing your oil in a timely manner is the key to engine life. Not running heavier oil that makes the engine work HARDER and produce LESS Hp. How does the dealer know that the tolerances of the bike have detereated after 20k miles? Hogwash! Since when is 20k miles considered "high mileage"?

If you're fine with running your CCT dry for the first few minutes of start-up go right ahead. But I wouldn't recommend it.
He actually was actually saying it was 20,000 KM which is even less miles...I agree thats not really high mileage. I'm all for 40
 

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hmmmm this got me thinking though i would want to use 10W-40 on my bike but as Repsol dealer myself i want only the best for my bike that's why i'm using 10W-50 Racing oil but the only 10W-40 oil Repsol has is semi-synthetic.

the only other brand i trust using in my bike is Motul but the cost of 300V Factory Line oils are much higher than Repsol even at wholesale prices, since Repsol is a Honda spec oil i'm gonna stick with it in whatever viscosity they come out.
 

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OveRReV said:
hmmmm this got me thinking though i would want to use 10W-40 on my bike but as Repsol dealer myself i want only the best for my bike that's why i'm using 10W-50 Racing oil but the only 10W-40 oil Repsol has is semi-synthetic.

the only other brand i trust using in my bike is Motul but the cost of 300V Factory Line oils are much higher than Repsol even at wholesale prices, since Repsol is a Honda spec oil i'm gonna stick with it in whatever viscosity they come out.
Well keep in mind that oil from different parts of the world have different properties. They're not all the same. With that in mind, I've used the Repsol 4T 10W-40 in my bike before and still rank it as one of the best oils I've used to date, if not THE best. I just ordered some Repsol 10W-50 FS oil. I'll let you know how it works in the bike. Repsol "feels" to me much thinner then most other oils. The bike revs much faster and shifts really nice.

TonyBarron said:
honda HP4...A semi sythetic is what I would consider. Or Castrol GPS.
Welcome Tony! I've used Honda's oil and wasn't very impressed. One of the thickest feeling oils that I have ever ran in the bike. Even the 10w-40 feels as thick as some 50w oils. I'd stick to the Castrol Actevo or Syntec (yes, I know Syntec is "car" oil but it's fine). Never tried the GPS. I don't believe that one has to buy "motorcycle" oil or pay $10/L for it in order to get good quality oil.
 

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yes NRR i feel the same way about Repsol oils being thinner than what they say on the label, even their 2stroke racing oils are thin you can use it with an oil pump. so far i haven't had ticking problems with my 600RR using Repsol 10W-50 Racing oil (100% synthetic).

i'd rather spend the extra $ on a 100% synthetic Repsol than flush down thousands of $ on repair bills, i wring the hell out of the bike so it only deserves the best oil i can afford.
 

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well i went to the dealer looking for repsol but they said they dont carry it..... so i ended up getting motul and im very impressed with it! btw motul is the only oil i use in my drift car! the motor is making just over 300hp and no problems!
 

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does anyone use 10w-30? I looked for 10w-40 in a fully synthetic at auto zone the other day but had no luck so I picked up the 10w-30.
 

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Dills said:
does anyone use 10w-30? I looked for 10w-40 in a fully synthetic at auto zone the other day but had no luck so I picked up the 10w-30.
Do not use 30w oil. Period! Take it back and go to Advanced Auto parts and get Castrol Syntec if you want to run car oil. I've had good results from that.
 
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