[KulSecHskY]

I just hit the 1,500 mile mark and I decided to switch to synthetic from Valvoline 10W-40 auto oil (mototune). Put in some Motul 300V 10W-40 and took her out for a quick spin. I uno if it was the chain clean/lube or the oil but I could've sworn she felt quicker. Is it all in my head?

I mean she squat and stayed that way all the way through 2nd. Didn't try it in 3rd... I like my freedom =P. I was up on the tank too.

 

[TOMIMOTO]

What??!! You didn't know? Synthetic oil adds like 5hp. Now if you mix gas and simple green you get like another 5 hp boost. Go try it!!

Nah. It's all in your head. Maybe the bike was slightly smoother feeling since it's freshly lubed and all happy.

 

[KulSecHskY]

What??!! You didn't know? Synthetic oil adds like 5hp. Now if you mix gas and simple green you get like another 5 hp boost. Go try it!!

Nah. It's all in your head. Maybe the bike was slightly smoother feeling since it's freshly lubed and all happy.

That's what I figured haha. Simple green huh? Hmm... I don't know I've had my eye on some GSX-R stickers.

Well whatever haha, my bike does shift smooth as hell now though. I almost don't even have to pull in the clutch... even while just cruising.

 

[NewRedRider]

It's NOT in your head. Dyno runs between different oils can differ 3-4Hp. Oil does make a difference but it's not adding Hp to your bike. It's just allowing your bike to perform at peak performance levels. This is another reason why I keep telling people to use 10W-40 weight oils and stop using 15W/20W-50 weight oils. Heavy oils make the motor work harder.

 

[Guest]

you want more power?

use a 0-weight oil with no swelling agents. It will ruin your engine over time.

 

[NewRedRider]

you want more power?

use a 0-weight oil with no swelling agents. It will ruin your engine over time.

Don't tell them to run straight weight oils. Someone will do it.

 

[Guest]

well, they'll have some mad power for about 100 miles...!

 

[KulSecHskY]

It's NOT in your head. Dyno runs between different oils can differ 3-4Hp. Oil does make a difference but it's not adding Hp to your bike. It's just allowing your bike to perform at peak performance levels. This is another reason why I keep telling people to use 10W-40 weight oils and stop using 15W/20W-50 weight oils. Heavy oils make the motor work harder.

ok sweet. so with my arata, pc III, and this new oil I must have like 150hp's. I understand that you're saying the oil is freeing up some hp's not adding, but I mean what's the difference? What if you are rebuilding a bottomend and knife-edge the crank. Is that adding hp's or freeing them up?

What about lighter parts that spin in the motor like pistons, c-rods, c-shafts?












BTW I was joking about the 150hp's =P

 

[NewRedRider]

One's a liquid and one's a solid. :icon_lol:

I guess if you want to get technical you are modifiying the bike by using a different oil then what came stock in the bike.

 

[Guest]

The lighter a part is, the less force it take to reciprocate or change direction.

less force required, more force obtained.

use the force...

 

[TippinRR]

hey how much is that valvoline full synth? also can you get that at wal-mart, i want something a lil cheaper than this amsoil full synth and this valvoline sounds like it..

 

[Guest]

you're concerned about 5 bucks? 3 bottles will do a change and a filter... Amsoil costs AT MOST 8.24... so 25 for the oil and another 5 bucks for the filter (Purolator)

30 bucks and from what I'm gathering on analytical information of MCF testing Data, all you'll ever need is a filter change and top off for a season... No lie.

 

[millcityrider]

I run motul 5w 40. . . or maybe its 5w 30 . . . . .either way. . . i went from 10w 40 synthetic blend to the full synthetic motul and I felt a diffrence. Much smoother and quieter. . . .. . sux that it cost $54 tho.

p.s. I'm at 13,xxx miles

i wouldn't go to full syn until 5-6k

 

[KulSecHskY]

hey how much is that valvoline full synth? also can you get that at wal-mart, i want something a lil cheaper than this amsoil full synth and this valvoline sounds like it..

I was using regular dino oil by Valvoline.

i wouldn't go to full syn until 5-6k

Why? I'm at 1,500 miles.

 

[NewRedRider]

Guys, Please stop passing that rumor around that you have to wait until "XXXX" miles before you can switch to a synthetic oil. Go pick up a bottle of Honda's HP4 and read the back of the label. It clearly says that you can use that oil during the break-in period. This is just another rumor by the dealers to scare you into buying their oil for a little longer.

I haven't tried the Valvoline in the bike but I have used Castrol Syntec with great results. You can also use Shell Rotella from Wal-mart.

Don't use the new line from Mobil 1. The Extended Performance (Gold Cap) oil made my clutch slip.

 

[Guest]

HP4 is semi-synthetic... But your right. hell, if you wanted to you could drain the oil out at the dealership, walk to the local auto parts store, grab some full synthetic, load it up and drive off. it would be kinda stupid since you'll be changing it in about 600 miles but the point is it wont do any damage. you can run whatever the hell you want to at any point during the motor's life, so as long as it isn't loaded with friction modifiers. it wont do any damage.