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Discussion Starter #861
How long do you expect the aluminium to last vs steel?

Might swap to these once mine wear out on my street bike if they're not too much more expensive.

Any reason you went those over kevlar?
i'll check the aluminum plates soon, i'm having a problem finding neutral & the rear wheel keeps spinning even when i'm pressing the clutch lever. Hope i didn't fry the friction plates.

I've had no problems yet with the OEM clutch friction plates so i don't find the need to switch to kevlar just yet, if my aluminum plates perform well i might order another set.

Can't get enough at how quick the engine picks up revs, wish i could start building my other engine soon, i wanna take it out & go racing next season & give the 1000's a run for their money.
 

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Discussion Starter #862
So whats your rebound / compression set to now? I have 9.5Nm springs in mine too.

Also the video was awesome!

Good luck with the setup.
Thank you for the compliments, that inspires me to do more R&D & work harder to improve myself & the bike.

My rebound is at 1 turn & compression at 1.25 turn on the forks, preload is 6 turns from full soft using 9.0N/m Ohlins fork springs with 120mm fork oil height. I have a copy of an Ohlins cartridge kit manual for the 03-04 600RR that says to set the fork oil level to 130mm so i'm gonna try that along with 9.5N/m K-Tech fork springs.

Also went back to a 190/55 Supercorsa SC2 rear tyre & 47T rear sprocket as i'm losing top speed & acceleration with a 46T & 180/60 rear tyre. I want my bike to change direction easier which is the reason i went back to the 190/55, narrower & taller than the 180/60.
 

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So whats your rebound / compression set to now? I have 9.5Nm springs in mine too.

Also the video was awesome!

Good luck with the setup.
Thank you for the compliments, that inspires me to do more R&D & work harder to improve myself & the bike.

My rebound is at 1 turn & compression at 1.25 turn on the forks, preload is 6 turns from full soft using 9.0N/m Ohlins fork springs with 120mm fork oil height. I have a copy of an Ohlins cartridge kit manual for the 03-04 600RR that says to set the fork oil level to 130mm so i'm gonna try that along with 9.5N/m K-Tech fork springs.
I'm almost at the same, think my rebound is 1.5 and compression 1.25. preload is 3rd line.

Rear preload is at 6, rebound 5 click, compression 1.5 turns I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #864
I'm almost at the same, think my rebound is 1.5 and compression 1.25. preload is 3rd line.

Rear preload is at 6, rebound 5 click, compression 1.5 turns I think.
if i remember correctly the stock rear shock doesn't have clicks on rebound, only on compression.

I run a WP 4618 rear shock so it's far from the stock shock as far as settings go but the damping is much firmer.
 

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Discussion Starter #865
Now let's do the math, we add all the grams we shaved off from the latest batch of titanium nuts, bolts & stuff.

Rear caliper sleeve - 11.g
Sliding pin - 15.7g
Front axle bolt - 24.1
Front caliper assy bolts - 68.8g
Front stay bolts - 13g
Swingarm axle pinch bolt - 18.7g
Front sprocket bolt - 17.5g
Top shock mount bolts -70.4g
Rear subframe bolts - 56g
Bottom shock mount bolt - 22.2g
Swingarm link bolt - 37g
Nuts (5pcs) - 40g
Shift lever pivot bolt - 34.6g

Total weight loss = 429g

That's almost 1/2kg reduction just from replacing the steel bolts & nuts with titanium, i still have some nuts & bolts i want to replace on the engine mounts, the M12 nuts are pretty heavy & i also want to replace the brake pad pins & banjo bolts with Ti to further reduce unsprung weight, getting closer to 163kg now, already planning my next batch.















 

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Im obviously not the only one with an obsession with weight.

I had a thread on another forum for my r1 where i religiously weighed every gram that came off or on the bike.

I found there were quite a few bolts that could be easily replaced with aluminium where strength wasnt really required - way lighter than Ti, and cheaper.

It's a never ending endeavour. I managed to cut about 20kg, without any big purchases, and remaining fully road legal.
 

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Discussion Starter #867
Im obviously not the only one with an obsession with weight.

I had a thread on another forum for my r1 where i religiously weighed every gram that came off or on the bike.

I found there were quite a few bolts that could be easily replaced with aluminium where strength wasnt really required - way lighter than Ti, and cheaper.

It's a never ending endeavour. I managed to cut about 20kg, without any big purchases, and remaining fully road legal.
i'm having a bet with a racer who has a Panigale 1199 on who's got the lightest bike, AFAIK i'm ahead of him as of this time unless he manages to buy a huge batch of Ti bolts to replace the steel bolts on his bike. My only concern with aluminum is it's a 1 time use part, on the S1000RR the generator & clutch cover bolts are aluminum, once you loosened them they are to be discarded & replaced with new ones. I could use aluminum washers though, need to replace the steel washers on my rear subrame mounts.
 

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if i remember correctly the stock rear shock doesn't have clicks on rebound, only on compression.

I run a WP 4618 rear shock so it's far from the stock shock as far as settings go but the damping is much firmer.
I thought rebound was the top one, and compression the bottom which means the rebound is the one that clicks.
 

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i'm having a bet with a racer who has a Panigale 1199 on who's got the lightest bike, AFAIK i'm ahead of him as of this time unless he manages to buy a huge batch of Ti bolts to replace the steel bolts on his bike. My only concern with aluminum is it's a 1 time use part, on the S1000RR the generator & clutch cover bolts are aluminum, once you loosened them they are to be discarded & replaced with new ones. I could use aluminum washers though, need to replace the steel washers on my rear subrame mounts.
Ive only owned my 600rr for 3 days, so im not too familiar with all its bits, but on my R1, I bought things like premade carbon fibre sheets, and aluminium flat bar, an Ti rod, and made a lot of custom bits to get rid of weight. Im looking forward to seeing how much comes off this bike when it gets converted to track over the next month or two.
 

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Discussion Starter #870
I thought rebound was the top one, and compression the bottom which means the rebound is the one that clicks.
on conventional shocks rebound damping has & always is the one on the bottom of the shock, try opening up the compression damping adjuster and then close the rebound adjuster on the bottom of the shock then try bouncing it & see what happens then open up the rebound damping adjuster to max then bounce it again. The difference should be very obvious.
 

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Discussion Starter #871
Ive only owned my 600rr for 3 days, so im not too familiar with all its bits, but on my R1, I bought things like premade carbon fibre sheets, and aluminium flat bar, an Ti rod, and made a lot of custom bits to get rid of weight. Im looking forward to seeing how much comes off this bike when it gets converted to track over the next month or two.
you can remove the excess wiring from the harness that goes to the rad fan, lights, signals etc & shave a pound off, remove the keyswitch assy & replace it with a handle bar switch & that's another pound off the bike. Stock gas cap weighs a lot too so you wanna look at replacing that.
 
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Discussion Starter #872
Got some free time to work on the forks, changed out the Ohlins 9.0N fork springs in favor of the stiffer K-Tech 9.5N fork springs, the K-Tech fork springs are 5mm shorter than the Ohlins (254mm vs 259mm) which reduced my installed preload from 20mm to 15mm.

Also took out some fork oil & set it at 130mm as specified by Ohlins for their 25mm cartridge kit, OEM spec calls for 110mm for use with the stock 8.1N fork spring.

This should make my CBR more stable under hard braking making my corner entry speed faster & lower my lap times.







 

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on conventional shocks rebound damping has & always is the one on the bottom of the shock, try opening up the compression damping adjuster and then close the rebound adjuster on the bottom of the shock then try bouncing it & see what happens then open up the rebound damping adjuster to max then bounce it again. The difference should be very obvious.
Stand corrected mate, checked the service manual and compression is the one on top (the one that "clicks") on the stock shock.

I always thought it was rebound like the forks (rebound top, compression bottom) haha!
 

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you can remove the excess wiring from the harness that goes to the rad fan, lights, signals etc & shave a pound off, remove the keyswitch assy & replace it with a handle bar switch & that's another pound off the bike. Stock gas cap weighs a lot too so you wanna look at replacing that.
So, with ditching the ignition, does that not cause an issue with the HISS stuff? or does the hrc ecu circumvent any potential issue here?
I might start my own progress thread so I can write down anything I do to it all in one place. . .

as for weight loss, yes I dd much of that to my R1. I replaced a lot of road stuff with lighter alternatives found, even stuff like the horn etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #875
So, with ditching the ignition, does that not cause an issue with the HISS stuff? or does the hrc ecu circumvent any potential issue here?
I might start my own progress thread so I can write down anything I do to it all in one place. . .

as for weight loss, yes I dd much of that to my R1. I replaced a lot of road stuff with lighter alternatives found, even stuff like the horn etc.
the HISS is pretty much non-functional with the HRC ECU, that key switch is there as the way to turn the ignition on/off.
 
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Discussion Starter #876
After 6 werks of waiting our Pro Bolt titanium drive pins & nuts for the BST sprocket carrier has arrived, bought 4 sets in a group buy, BikeHPS had to confirm if the order was correct as they usually receive an order of just 1 set. Took a month to reply because the email was wrong.

 
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I'm jealous of the weight of your bike. I'm curious how I can get an accurate reading on mine.
 

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I wonder if a truck scale, like the ones at the dump would be too inaccurate. Seems like they are used for vehicles in the 5,000 lb weight capacity, not 400 lb.
 

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That was my first thought was the scale at the dump. I actually need to take a load to the dump soon and I'm going to ask how close their scale measures.
 

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I'm almost certain I'm an idiot but....?

can you put bike on stands, keep bike level front to back, (remove a stand, weigh, replace stand, and repeat).... and weigh each end with a bathroom scale?

add the two weights, and you have total bike weight?
 
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