Resurrection! Lol How does it feel to have the only thread that helped me out changing my spark plugs and removing the air box to get to the coils. I know the service manual says to dis mount the radiator and all that (which I did and that worked a little too) but the main help came from removing the air box so THANK YOU!:shakehand
***PAIR Removal How To (including airbox removal) NEW VERSION!!***
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250 Posts
Great writeup
I just did this mod last night. I was going to do a spin-off thread but realized that would be unnecessary. This one is excellent!
I just want to add that the hardest part for me was removal and installation of the lower airbox for the following reasons:
1. there is not a lot of slack on the upper injector wiring harness
2. the rubber intake tunnel in front of the airbox is in the way
3. the rubber intake tunnel needed to be pushed in the correct way during installation so all of its 5 tabs line up and plug into the frame
I had to flex the airbox quite a bit. Another option would have been to unplug the wiring harness but I didn't have all the plastic taken off.
I just did this mod last night. I was going to do a spin-off thread but realized that would be unnecessary. This one is excellent!
I just want to add that the hardest part for me was removal and installation of the lower airbox for the following reasons:
1. there is not a lot of slack on the upper injector wiring harness
2. the rubber intake tunnel in front of the airbox is in the way
3. the rubber intake tunnel needed to be pushed in the correct way during installation so all of its 5 tabs line up and plug into the frame
I had to flex the airbox quite a bit. Another option would have been to unplug the wiring harness but I didn't have all the plastic taken off.
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7,045 Posts
Yeah it is tight in there, when putting it back together I actually tore off the connectors for the KYB steering damper. 
When you're doing this, make sure to have the fuel tank pushed up as far as possible to get the most clearance.
When you're doing this, make sure to have the fuel tank pushed up as far as possible to get the most clearance.
The block off plates keep the system from routing fresh air to your exhaust to burn up any leftover hydrocarbons in the exhaust.
When you block it off you get a better a/f reading on the dyno and I guess in theory more accurate all across the curve.
Tldr- no it actually helps squeeze out more performance
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According to your auto tune instructions it actually states that you have to block of smog/ pair valve in order to actually get the correct tune other wise it makes the system think its running lean, so in turn you will be running richer. The pair valve has absolutely nothing to do with performance its just in place to pass and make it looks good to meet EPA emissions and what have you.
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1,786 Posts
What's another good way to seal up the hoses on the side of the airbox?
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7,045 Posts
I superglued a small plastic disc to the top/entrance of the tube on the inside of the airbox.
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129 Posts
For all you asking about this mod and what it does...
heres is the best way i can help.
when you get full headers or just a slip on or even with a stock exhaust set up, and a PC with a custom made MAP (without a PC and a CUSTOM map this mod is useless)there can be engine deceleration popping noises inside the headers from unburnt fuel passing threw. like backfire so to speak. this also causes presure to build up inside the headers which can cause damage to the engine and pipes. by removing the PAIR this will prevent this from happening.
is it necessary? NO
will this give you performance gains? NO
is this weight saving? YES, but less than 1 lb.
do you need plates? NO
simplest way to do this is to close the tube in the airbox and just conect both caps together on the block using the same hose.
will this give you a more accurate F/A reading? YES
but honestly this is normally for fine tunning a custom map, for the hardcore track guys or a track only bike.
will this have any gains on a street, non track bike? YES a little, but you probibly wouldnt notice it.
will this improve a basic map from dynnojet website? MAYBE
like i said if you are getting a custom dyno tune with a map, or a custom map made (without a dyno) for your bike and you have a PC this mod can be benificial.
This mod can also keep your bike on the safe side.
heres is the best way i can help.
when you get full headers or just a slip on or even with a stock exhaust set up, and a PC with a custom made MAP (without a PC and a CUSTOM map this mod is useless)there can be engine deceleration popping noises inside the headers from unburnt fuel passing threw. like backfire so to speak. this also causes presure to build up inside the headers which can cause damage to the engine and pipes. by removing the PAIR this will prevent this from happening.
is it necessary? NO
will this give you performance gains? NO
is this weight saving? YES, but less than 1 lb.
do you need plates? NO
simplest way to do this is to close the tube in the airbox and just conect both caps together on the block using the same hose.
will this give you a more accurate F/A reading? YES
but honestly this is normally for fine tunning a custom map, for the hardcore track guys or a track only bike.
will this have any gains on a street, non track bike? YES a little, but you probibly wouldnt notice it.
will this improve a basic map from dynnojet website? MAYBE
like i said if you are getting a custom dyno tune with a map, or a custom map made (without a dyno) for your bike and you have a PC this mod can be benificial.
This mod can also keep your bike on the safe side.
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656 Posts
i did this mod the other day, but I didnt plug that crankcase breather back in under the right side of the airbox. is that bad? i heard some people say it gives you some extra torque down low, and its considered the "kleen air" mod. my hose is just chillin in the bike though not connected to the airbox. is that bad or should i reconnect it
How is the best way to do this as im really struggling here???
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880 Posts
Some lube around the rubber parts work wonder.. WD40, CRC, Silicon Spray, dish soap.
This thread is super old but I have a 2006 cbr600rr and just removed the pairs and im wondering about a 3rd hose that connects to the bottom of the air box. My question is do I plug up that hose as well? I took the hose off and capped it for now. Here are at the pictures.
Attachments
Im not referring to the hose that connects to the left side, i've blocked that alread. If you look at the first picture i posted, I put a cap on the one im referring to. Its a hose that connects in between the 2 pair valves. It connects to the center top end of the air box. I took a picture of the air box. Do I leave this connected?
I will try my luck here, even if it’s an old thread...I am having issues with my IACV after PAIR removal. Bike is running ok, idle is normal, but I cannot get rid of the error code. Even if it’s deleted at the honda dealer, it keeps coming back on after I run the bike and give some throttle to it. Is it possible that there is some air leak at the block off plates? Can that cause fauly read for the iacv? I have checked all other connections and they look fine. I really am getting out of ideas where to look as I have checked the situation under the airbox for at least 10 times and I cannot find the cause...
btw...IACV was already checked and replaced, issue remains. Fuel injection hoses were checked, injectors also.
It’s just a pain in the ass as the bike is running perfeclty if only I could figure out what is causing that damn FI light for IACV to go on over and over again...
btw...IACV was already checked and replaced, issue remains. Fuel injection hoses were checked, injectors also.
It’s just a pain in the ass as the bike is running perfeclty if only I could figure out what is causing that damn FI light for IACV to go on over and over again...
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