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Well on my way home I was paying attention to my rpm's. I was at around 8k rpm's and that kept me at about 82-86 mph.
secondary injectors arent in use over 5500 unless your wide open throttle. They arent spraying on Partial throttle.Knightslugger said:it's the combination of your style and your RPMs. All 8 injectors are working after 5k RPM. if you're riding highway, you should be in 6th gear to conserve fuel. The engine can occasionally take 15000 RPMs, that doesn't mean anywhere in between there is safe. You keep that up and you'll spin your bearings out.
Riding at 10,000 RPMs occasionally wont, but if done constantly it will, regardless of engine load. You're a fool if you think Honda made this engine to run at that high of a speed reliably. Racers run that high all the time, and they all have to rebuild their motors five or six times a season, even the really bad racers who always get last place have to.akboy777 said:BTW Riding at 10 grand ain't gonna waste your engine ! c'mon !
After all you got a HONDA, its not some korean knock off toy!
65 but if I stayed at that speed I would get run over. So usually keeping up with traffic I am between 75-85 and thats between 7-8k rpmsKnightslugger said:As for the Gasoline Consumption, it's the RPMs your running at. What are the limits on the freeways in San Diago? 65? 75?
Actually it's 5,500 or greater than 50% throttle position.RedFireRR said:secondary injectors arent in use over 5500 unless your wide open throttle. They arent spraying on Partial throttle.
Don't forget about the PIAR valve. If it wasn't disabled the mapping will be even more rich in the mix.tek said:hmmm im not too sure about that all. we race here and the engines seem to last 1-2 seasons on a refresh, about 3-4 seasons for a full rebuild. and yes they are running over 10k rpm lol. but yes after time high rpms will do their damage. its just like running at lower rpms for a longer time really, you just notice the loss more when it happens faster(at high rpms). our engines usually stay competative in in the novice and expert level for at least 2 seasons.
back on topic.... when you got the PCIII tuned how did they adjust for air/fuel ratio?? did they use EGTs or a wideband system? if they used a wideband system then did you drill another spot for the sensor up stream of the catalytic converter?
if they just put the sniffer on the back then its reading a false signal. the cat will be burning up all the hydrocarbons which causes the air/fuel ratio to go lean. the tuner sees this lean signal(unknown to him its wrong), then compensates by adding more fuel until he gets his ideal afr.
whats this mean? your engine is running rich as hell, and is incorrectly tuned. you will not see black soot on your tail pipe because all the hydrocarbons are being burned in the catalytic converter.
now this is all irrelivant if the engine was tuned correctly or if you removed the cat before tuning.