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Discussion Starter #1
After searching the forums for a bit, and reading this thread:
http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=33180
I still cannot find a solid answer to my fuel system questions. Any help or links to threads with info on this would help greatly. Also if all goes well I will try to do a comprehensive write up on it after I have everything done.

I already have the PCIII, and I plan on doing the DIY v-stacks mod (already have them cut but just need to put them in). I will have fresh tires, chain and sprockets, fresh oil, fresh gas, cleaned air filter before heading to the dyno shop as I have read here that this helps get the optimum map.

After reading a bit everyone seems to say that a good dyno center would want/need a bung welded in to use an O2 sensor. I haven't called the local shops to ask yet because I wanted to get some feedback from any of you who may have gone through this already. My wallet tells me I should just weld in a bung and skip the O2 kit until I can afford it. That way the dyno tuner can have access to get an A/F reading and I will get a better map. Am I on the right track here?

Also because I have the PCIII I was thinking of going with the PC Wideband Commander kit just to keep things the same. Anyone have any recommendations other than that system?

As far as the actual dyno tuning goes I have read that it is a good idea to pinch/block off the PAIR system. Is this correct? Will this help/hurt anything in the future? Is there anything else I should do to prepare for a dyno tuning?
 

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The shop can also stick a probe down the exhaust and get your A/F reading that way as well. It's just as effective as works very well. Why are you considering the PC Wideband Commander? Your tuner will use a wideband on the dyno, and once its all set and done you don't really care about wideband O2 readings. And yes, get rid of the PAIR system.
 

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Was just considering the wideband kit because I don't trust anyone that does work to my bike unless it is me :icon_lol:. Plus it would be nice to have the gauge in full view while riding to keep things monitored and have the ability to log things.

Thanks for the info. Haven't done a search yet on exactly what the PAIR system does so I know before removing it (know it stands for pulsed air injection r? or something like that). Any other info on that would be great. Thanks for the help!
 

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When you get your PC3 tuned, they will provide plots on what your A/F curve looks like. Thats your hard evidence that the system has been tuned correctly. Monitoring the A/F whlie riding is unrealistic, do you really have time to look down at the small LED display every second you ride? Also, even if you were to review the data afterwards, what use it that going to be to you unless you have a dynojet to tune the system accordingly. I hope you get my point.

The PAIR(pulse secondary air injection) system simply injects fresh air into the exhaust tract to help burn unburnt gasses. This needs to be disabled before tuning the PC3 as it will lead to erroneous A/F readings.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks 99SH, very helpful. Also I do realize it is unrealistic to feel the need to look down while riding at the gauge the whole time (I tend to watch the road) but it would be nice to have if I wanted to change the map provided from the dyno center in the future via the PCIII. That way I could make it leaner/richer and still monitor the A/F ratio without bringing it back to the shop. Again not necessary but just another nice gadget.

I will be putting on new tires tomorrow and depending on the cost of rotors/pads (mine are toasted) I should be getting it dyno'd within the next few weeks. Just have to make some PAIR blockoffs now and put in the shorty vstacks. Thanks again!
 

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For the PAIR removal, you can just get vacuum caps to cap off the 3 ports(2 valve cover, 1 airbox).

I'm going to try to convince you against the PC Wideband unit one last time. When you tune the PC3, you need to enter a correction factor based on Throttle Position & RPM. Lets say you're cruising and see your LEDs in the red zone and need to richen up the map. How are you going to know what you're exact throttle position is to correct it in the MAP? Also, when you do corrections it's typically not 1 point only, there will be a broad range of RPMs over various loads & throttle positions. There are simply too many variables to factor if you're trying to do a ride & tune setup. I'm just trying to help you spend your money wiser. Leave buying the instrumentation(wideband O2) to the tuners, you buy the mods.
 
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