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Please help i just bought this and now it won't start

757 Views 75 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  Tricci1009
Just bought a 2004 600rr it ran fine I rode up and down the st to make sure everything was good. It was almost out of gas. I started it a couple more times. Loaded it onto my trailer and strapped it down. Started it again. Drove away stopped two miles down the road and put gas in it and now it won't start. Fuel pump primes. The starter turns over I can heat the engine turning over but it won't start like something is killing the spark? Looks like the kick stand safety switch the clutch safety switch have all been bypassed. Under the dash by the back of headlights there's 3 wires out in the open two of them are twisted together. I'm wondering if that's a tip sensor. I'm freaking out. The only thing I did was tighten the bolt that hold the seat down.
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The only thing I did was tighten the bolt that hold the seat down.
WHY would you do that?!

Seriously, are you stuck somewhere? Or are you back home? Drag that thing back home and get a multimeter so you can sort out the wiring.

ITMT, Try holding the throttle wide open and crank it. Try using some starter fluid if that doesn't work. If the fuel pump is priming then the safety circuit is a moot point right now. Unless you hit the Start/Stop engine switch.
The seller had the seat off so I put it back on and tightened the bolt so it doesn't fly off
I have to work but when I get home I'm going to start going at it. I'm a mechanic and can diagnose it I was just hoping that some CBR people might have a great idea on where to start considering it was just running.
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The only thing different from when it was running and when it isn't is the addition of gas. Hmmm.

If the bike is turning over strong then I'd suspect a fuel issue, not a spark issue (which are much rarer in my experience).

Did you fill up at El Cheapo's (an actual name of a chain around here) gas and water emporium? Accidentally get diesel?

Pump priming means it passed the tip-over, sidestand test (at least on a stock wired bike).
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It's not like it fired up ran out of gas and died one min it was starting right up the next it wouldn't even try. No signs of fuel igniting at all. It was good gas and if it wasn't you would expect it to Atleast start off the fuel that was still in the lines and then die.
Fuel pump prime rules out BAS or kickstand switch. There is a neutral safety switch under the left handlebar also but that failing should not let the engine spin. Since you only moved it a short distance but started it multiple times does it sound like the battery is running out of juice? My only other thought is something dislodged in the gas tank and is either blocking the fuel filter or injectors.
Do 2 measurements 1st:

1. battery voltage with everything off, volts = ????
2. battery voltage when cranking, volts = ???

After that, follow my step-by-step guide to test ignition-switch, kill-switch, engine-stop and fuel-pump relay. At some point, there's a wire or switch that's not working properly.

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Thank you k agree a wire or something is. It working. The pump primes and the bike turns over no problem but it doesn't even sputter something is keeping it from getting spark. It's getting fuel



It's not like it fired up ran out of gas and died one min it was starting right up the next it wouldn't even try. No signs of fuel igniting at all. It was good gas and if it wasn't you would expect it to Atleast start off the fuel that was still in the lines and then die.
Do 2 measurements 1st:

1. battery voltage with everything off, volts = ????
2. battery voltage when cranking, volts = ???

After that, follow my step-by-step guide to test ignition-switch, kill-switch, engine-stop and fuel-pump relay. At some point, there's a wire or switch that's not working properly.

Thank you k agree a wire or something is. It working. The pump primes and the bike turns over no problem but it doesn't even sputter something is keeping it from getting spark. It's getting fuel
Update. I had a couple min before work this morning I took the air box cover off and sprayed starter fluid in and nothing. Also it looks like the injectors Gi through the air box and spray directly into the air box? Is that right? If so when I put my hand in there and crank I don't feel any fuel coming from injectors but it didn't do anything with the starter fluid either.
Upper injectors don't come in until 5500rpms or so. You can't feel any petrol spraying, it's a fine mist. No spark, won't ignite starting fluid. Follow my troubleshooting guide, will fix bike in less than 30-min.
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Upper injectors don't come in until 5500rpms or so. You can't feel any petrol spraying, it's a fine mist. No spark, won't ignite starting fluid. Follow my troubleshooting guide, will fix bike in less than 30-min.

Will don thank you. A lot of similar cases are just fouled plugs. I have ordered plugs band will have them today. After work I will test the coils and if they are good I will change plugs. Otherwise I will continue with your tests. I can't seem to find the diagnostic port on this. Can anyone tell me where it is. There is a connector by my battery that's red with 4 wires and it's not plugged into anything.
Yup that's it. Jumper ports on DLC port and it'll blink error-codes on dash, if any. Otherwise, you'll just get steady blinking.

Coils are fine, plugs are fine. You can play with them if you want.

There is just one wire that doesn't measure properly being root cause of issue. Just need to find that wire.
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Yup that's it. Jumper ports on DLC port and it'll blink error-codes on dash, if any. Otherwise, you'll just get steady blinking.

Coils are fine, plugs are fine. You can play with them if you want.

There is just one wire that doesn't measure properly being root cause of issue. Just need to find that wire.

Which wires do I jump. There's 4. I have an adapter for my obd reader that I bought for my girls ninja maybe that will plug in. My old bike had two wires to jump in order to get the codes. This one has 4 so I'm not sure which ones to jump.
Also as far as your procedure to test the wires with volt meter can you refer me to a manual or something that will tell me what wire is what. And where to physically get to the wire to test it?
OBD reader won't work, ECU only speaks older K-line language, not OBD1 or 2.

You want to jumper brown and green wires. Then turn key ON to flash codes. Don't need to start bike.
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Update. Got home from work changed plugs starts right up. But smoke coming out of tail pipe. Hoping it's just old gas. I dumped seafoam and some fresh gas in I guess only time will tell. At low RPMs like parking lot speed the engine kind of surges up and down making the bike jerk back and forth it's deff running rough.
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It's not like it fired up ran out of gas and died one min it was starting right up the next it wouldn't even try. No signs of fuel igniting at all. It was good gas and if it wasn't you would expect it to Atleast start off the fuel that was still in the lines and then die.
Check that battery out first.

If it's good, then head to your relays. ( you can always test the relays and switch them around if you have a good one)

If it's not that, then make sure the wires that plug into the clutch sensor under the clutch perch are connected.

If that's not it make sure the engine kill switch wires are connected properly, and if they are then you can always open up the kill switch to make sure it isn't dirty and causing this.

If not that then spark plugs.

If it's not that, as others have stated you wouldn't have gotten that far if the tip sensor/bank angle sensor (BAS) or kickstand safety was the issue. So your going to have to test a bunch of **** lol.

Your wiring diagram:


Front close up:


Mid to rear:
See less See more
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Check that battery out first.

If it's good, then head to your relays. ( you can always test the relays and switch them around if you have a good one)

If it's not that, then make sure the wires that plug into the clutch sensor under the clutch perch are connected.

If that's not it make sure the engine kill switch wires are connected properly, and if they are then you can always open up the kill switch to make sure it isn't dirty and causing this.

If not that then spark plugs.

If it's not that, as others have stated you wouldn't have gotten that far if the tip sensor/bank angle sensor (BAS) or kickstand safety was the issue. So your going to have to test a bunch of **** lol.

Your wiring diagram:
View attachment 229392

Front close up:
View attachment 229393

Mid to rear:
View attachment 229394


Thank you for this!! I changed the plugs and it starts right up. But it's smoking I hope it's just from sitting or fuel stabilizer or something. I put seafoam and some fresh gas in it's running a little rough. Slow speed like parking lot speed it surges a little sometimes making the bike lurch back and forth. I'm praying it's just running rough from bad gas and sitting. Please don't be the rings!!!
Super-rich mixtures that foul plugs point to problem with MAP-sensor circuit. Or vacuum-hose to it is leaking or disconnected. This fools MAP-sensor into measuring less vacuum than actual and it sends signal that tricks ECU into thinking load is higher than actual. ECU injects extra fuel to match what it thinks is high-load or even WOT.
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