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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I want to put a relay in place under my seat so that I can cut the power to my GPS and heated grips when the bike is off. Could anyone let me know the best wire to connect the relay to. Normaly I would take the feed from the low beams but as the relay will be under my seat I am not exactly sure which wire that would be.

Thanks in advance,

Jon

PS - I tried searching for this but couldn't find the answer.
 

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Saw gps pulls about 1 amp. Not sure on the heated grips. Depending how you use them you could wire them to your ignition and if they pull some power you could put in a delay with a built in 30amp relay. Turn your key on and gives you time to start the bike until the warmers and gps start up. This will assist in keeping the battery good longer because you don't have to start the bike with the draw of two devices on it. T
 

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If he uses the relay the headlight should just be for the coil (to trip it) so the added draw should be very minimal.

But finding the wire at the sub-frame... I dunno... I'd have to go looking...
 

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Just the first ones I came across.
12 volts per pair, 6 volts per grip
Amps/Watts: approx 3.0 amps
 

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Just the first ones I came across.
12 volts per pair, 6 volts per grip
Amps/Watts: approx 3.0 amps
huh? For the GPS unit?

Yea, I get ya, just saying that I think he intends on feeding it from the battery (like you say) but wanted to use the headlight to simply 'trip' the relay coil.

That should be ok as the coil should have very little draw. Either way should work.

Me I would probably fuse it at the batter then install a toggle for it. So that in case I had the bike sitting (for some reason...) with the key on and didn't want the GPS on I could simply turn it off.

Or...

I could view the GPS routing, etc... without having the bike on. Although wouldn't want to do that for long, or to often. But would give options... And you wouldn't need the relay or even a key on...
 

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True. Lots of ways of doing it. Just personal preference. T
 

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I have the heated grips and sometimes other devices hooked up....I wired the switch up to a relay, so that when the key goes off, the grips turn off as well. This will prevent accidental battery death by a forgetful pilot or meddling passer-by. I run power off the battery directly to a 30amp relay installed on the side of the subframe tail section...and I run my ground back to battery neg. . I use the tail/license light, 12volt line, as a turn on switch to the relay. The tail light only has power when the bike is turned on...Now from the relay you can run a line to a distribution-block that will let you hook up multi electronic units.....

This link will be very helpful: http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php
 

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yea that's what I was saying and what he wants to do... As long as it is just to trip the relay it's ok.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
To answer some questions, I am putting in the relay to stop me accidently leaving on the heated grips. The last thing I want is to forget to switch them off and find that my battery has drained and that I have to push start the bike - not a good situation with the weather in the UK at the moment.

With regard to the headlight feed, that was just an example of a device that is only powered on when the bike is on - my issue with connecting to the headlights is that I have no idea which wire it is in the subframe! In all honesty I dont really care which wire I power from - anything that turns on when the bike is on will do.

Do any of you have suggestions?

Tripage - would love to get the knightrider third eye, but do I have to send you my third eye for you to do the work? I commute to work on the bike so cant be without it for any length of period.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
PS - not fussed about a toggle for the GPS as it has a battery. I really just want something to stop me from accidently killing the battery. In this situation I dont even need a delay switch as I will always try and turn off the grips when I leave the bike.
 

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We can modify a third eye we have here and charge a core charge and refund it when we get your stock one back.
Not sure on the relay for the headlight. Suggested our delay relay because you can hook it to any ignition power and it has it's own relay so you don't have to worry about tapping into another one. The delay can be turned down to instant on if you would like. Just making things a little easier, plus 3amps on your gps is a lot of added strain on your battery wnen you are starting the bike. This way you can add a switch to the warmers off the relay and turn them off in the summer time. T
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
If you are tapping the ignition relay for yours is there any reason why I couldn't do the same? Think I did that with one of my old bikes?

Not fussed about a delay switch primarily because I always turn the bike on to warm it up before I do anything else. At the point of start-up the GPS wouldn't even be in it's craddle and the grips should not be turned on.
 

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Just make sure that whatever your devices draw is either on a relay or isn't drawing a lot of power. Ex: you have a 10amp fuse that you tied into. Your bike is probably using 5-6 of those amps, you add the heated grips to that same fuse and now you are at 9 amps on a 10 amp fuse. You can change the fuse to a higher one just make sure everything else is correct when wiring.
The delay relay needs 12 volt ignition power. Can get this off anything. It has it's own relay so you don't have to worry where you are tapping into. Heated grips don't come with relay or suggest a certain wire to tie into? They probably suggest an in line fuse and switch directly off the battery? T
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ahh - think you have missunderstood me. At present I have a direct feed from the battery to my grips and gps (I am not using the headlight for this). I also have a fuse (15amp) on the positive feed (dont want to short the battery now do I).

My issue is that I dont want to forget to turn the grips off and return to the bike with no battery. Hence the idea of using a relay which cuts the wire from battery to the grips and GPS.

I only mentioned the low beams as this is an example of a wire that I could use to activate the relay. I haven't used the headlight wire at all for powering my devices (if I had done that they I wouldn't need an extra relay as the lights are only one when the bike is on!)

All I am therefore looking for is a wire under the seat that I can use to activate the relay. It sounds like the ignition feed will do this.
 

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Someone with a Euro manual should be able to find this wire for you.
See how big the relay is that you are tapping into. Your grips draw a lot of current. 3 amps is a good amount of power being used. If the relay isn't big enough you may need to swap it out for a larger one. Just trying to save you a headache. When you tie into existing electrical there is always a risk of over powering it. T
 

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Ahh - think you have missunderstood me. At present I have a direct feed from the battery to my grips and gps (I am not using the headlight for this). I also have a fuse (15amp) on the positive feed (dont want to short the battery now do I).

My issue is that I dont want to forget to turn the grips off and return to the bike with no battery. Hence the idea of using a relay which cuts the wire from battery to the grips and GPS.

I only mentioned the low beams as this is an example of a wire that I could use to activate the relay. I haven't used the headlight wire at all for powering my devices (if I had done that they I wouldn't need an extra relay as the lights are only one when the bike is on!)

All I am therefore looking for is a wire under the seat that I can use to activate the relay. It sounds like the ignition feed will do this.

I'm not sure about euro bikes but like I said in above post, the tail/license plate light works perfectly fine. Just tap into it and run your line off it to switch on your relay. It only has power when the bike is turned on..........It should be pretty eazy to find....
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Someone with a Euro manual should be able to find this wire for you.
See how big the relay is that you are tapping into. Your grips draw a lot of current. 3 amps is a good amount of power being used. If the relay isn't big enough you may need to swap it out for a larger one. Just trying to save you a headache. When you tie into existing electrical there is always a risk of over powering it. T
Thanks for the advice. I will definately heed your warning. Fortunately I tend to play everything on the safe side and have therefore bought a 30amp car relay. The added benefit of these is that they are mass produced and cheap!
 

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I'm not sure about euro bikes but like I said in above post, the tail/license plate light works perfectly fine. Just tap into it and run your line off it to switch on your relay. It only has power when the bike is turned on..........It should be pretty eazy to find....
I agree. Besides, the wire is under the seat and fairly easy to access.
 
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