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Discussion Starter #1
Well earlier I went for a ride with my friends,and a red light popped up on the gauge cluster,and I didn't think too much of it.But when I tried accelerating the bike would like go and then stop repeatedly.At times when I accelerated nothing happened,and then out of nowhere the power will connect and launch me forward.

So I got home and noticed that the screws connecting the battery came unscrewed.Well was wondering if that was the cause of the problem,and if the battery being loose will throw on the red light?

Thanks for all the help!

-David
 

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I had these symptoms when i was test riding a bike when it was low oil. Site glass was empty bike was running dry so it began cutting off the power just like you described, but since you had noticed the loose battery terminal hopefully its just that.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Crap,gotta ask another question.Had my bike on just the front stand(shoulda known better)in the garage trying to check everything out,was actually low on oil.

Well long story short,my bike fell over,no cosmetic damages,and frame sliders saved it really well.Tried starting it up and smoke billowed from the exhaust,should I just let the bike sit,or just let it burn whatever it's burning?
 

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Oil will get up into the intake through the crankcase breather if it's on its side. Nothing much to worry about there...

If to much gets in there though the motor can hydro lock and then your in trouble... so just be careful next time it falls over.

As for your red light, chances are that was the malfunction light. When your battery cables are loose it will send your voltages all over the place, and yes the mil light will sometimes come on... tighten the cables and you will be good to go.
 

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Oil will get up into the intake through the crankcase breather if it's on its side. Nothing much to worry about there...

If to much gets in there though the motor can hydro lock and then your in trouble... so just be careful next time it falls over.

As for your red light, chances are that was the malfunction light. When your battery cables are loose it will send your voltages all over the place, and yes the mil light will sometimes come on... tighten the cables and you will be good to go.
:+1: glad i wasnt too far off.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Welp,I got an entire new problem while I was converting the shifting pattern to the GP style.My bike has Vortex rearsets btw.

Well I relocated the shift rod to the lower hole in order to change the shift pattern.After I did that I sat on the bike to see if I could locate neutral,but to my dismay the bike never showed neutral.So I swapped the shifting pattern to normal,and tried locating it again,no luck there.

So then I tried starting the bike without the clutch in at various spots in order to see if the bike could have been in neutral and the light didn't flash on.That wasn't the case so I checked if the bike started at all.With the kickstand down and clutch in the gauge cluster just shut off,with the kickstand up the gauge cluster flashed rapidly.Well I just let it sit for awhile,and came back to it,and played with the shifter again and somehow found neutral.

But now my bike won't start,it makes this repetitive clicking sound that I'm pretty sure was coming from the battery.

Not sure what the problem is,if anybody could shed some light,I would really appreciate it.Just having the worst luck with stuff this week.

-David
 

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not sure exactly whats going on with neutral problem but looks like you may have drained your battery while trying to start it over and over again... try charging your battery up and see what happens with the starting problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
not sure exactly whats going on with neutral problem but looks like you may have drained your battery while trying to start it over and over again... try charging your battery up and see what happens with the starting problem.
Alright,can't thank you enough for helping with my problems,threw the battery on the charger and will see the results tomorrow.
 

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As Jake said, the clicking was because your battery went flat...

And unless you are going to be going on the track IMO it's actually safer to run the standard setup...

The only time you could possibly need the gp shift setup is on the track where you are up shifting mid corner... whilst I agree that that also happens on the street you really shouldn't be going so fast that ground clearance for your foot is becoming an issue for you while your doing it.

If you just want to give it a go though... well why not? Make sure you don't put any inwards pressure on the shifter shaft (the one that goes into the motor). There is only a small thin plate holding it there and it's really really easy to bend the crap out of it if you aren't careful...

If you are still having trouble getting it to shift you may just need to rock the bike backwards and forwards while you do it or you may have the alignment of the shift rods a little out of whack...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Glad I'm part of such an awesome and helpful community.Guess I'll be staying with normal shifting,haha.
 
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