Alright, thanks. I might split it and run 15/44. I did a little more research and that seems to be a popular with a street bike. Most people say at the track I will be doing track-days at this year (MAM) that 145mph is about the speed most 600's are getting to on the straight.
My 04 600 is track only. I have stock 15/43 and a 16. My question is at what point do I need a new chain? I have not changed any sprockets yet. Is it a pain? And do I need a new chain for each gear change. I would like to carry a couple different combo's. But not sure how hard to change said gears and or chain. Thanks for any info
Again, I wouldn't go down AT ALL in the front. You're going to put a lot of stress on the chain with such a tight turning radius. Go up in the rear sprocket.
Stock gearing is 16/43, not 15. Replace the chain if there's any tight or stretched spots. There's illustrations here showing what to look for. Search it. As long as you've got the right # of links in the chain, you can run different sprockets. Changing sprockets is easy too.
15/46 on mine but we run mostly short twisty tracks
I installed a new chain cut slightly longer to compensate for the increase in sprocket teeth
Remember your axle position will change with some re-gearing combinations when using a stock length chain
It will change the way the bike handles (very slightly)
-1/+1 (15/44) will leave the axle in same position
Using 15/46 add one link to stock chain length (on your new chain) to compensate for the 2 extra teeth
also be advised when running an alloy rear sprocket you will be replacing it twice as often as a steel sprocket (alloy wears faster than steel)
I figure 2 alloy rears for every chain & steel front sprocket
Keep your chain & sprockets clean & lube'd to increase the life of the alloy rear sprocket.
Also rear wheel alignment is important.
A mis-aligned rear wheel will accelerate the wear on an alloy rear sprocket's teeth (the sides of the teeth)
(all this I had to learn the hard way - hope it saves you some time and $$$)