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i don't remember there being any pinch bolts on the '07. I installed these no-cut frame sliders: http://www.satoracing.com/frameslider07cbr600rrr.htm

you can see from the pics...no pinch bolts. If you're gonna be doing your own maintence, then run down to Sears and get a torque wrench. Everyone's right...you need a longer handle wrench to get the leverage you need to take these off.

Took me about 15 minutes putting my frame sliders on...with the right tools or course.
 

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i don't remember there being any pinch bolts on the '07. I installed these no-cut frame sliders: http://www.satoracing.com/frameslider07cbr600rrr.htm

you can see from the pics...no pinch bolts. If you're gonna be doing your own maintence, then run down to Sears and get a torque wrench. Everyone's right...you need a longer handle wrench to get the leverage you need to take these off.

Took me about 15 minutes putting my frame sliders on...with the right tools or course.

Im going to go ahead and have to agree. I installed Shogun sliders. the instructions say to only remove one bolt at a time. I didnt see any pinch bolts neither did the instructions mention.

I do recommend torquing them back down. I did not use any locktite for those bolts, because they are torqued and i didnt want to fight with gumming up the threads. I have over 1800 miles of riding since the install, no problems with coming loose or anything. I have not however ops checked the sliders. I am hoping to hold that test off as long as possible!!!
 

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I know this thread is old as time, but I'm working on the no-cut Shogun sliders for my '07. I also searched around the mounting bolt and did not find a pinch bolt.

I am starting with the right side with the bike supported on the kickstand, and the engine bolt is easy enough to retract with a standard torque wrench, but it doesn't feel like the bolt is 'free' (the way a bolt usually becomes easy to hand-loosen after being loosened to a certain point). I haven't fully removed it because I am concerned that the engine may shift when I do (if the weight of the engine is causing the resistance).

I wanted to know how you had your bike supported when you did your install, and if it's normal for the bolt to retain some resistance to loosening throughout the entire removal step. If not, should the engine be supported from the oil pan below, or is there a better 'jack point?' Thanks!
 

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IIRC the motor needs to be supported as you remove/replace bolt.

I used lift under engine oil sump.

placed block of wood under sump and lifted slightly w/hydraulic lift....

bolt should turn "free"
 

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I had to remove some Shogun no cuts when I installed my Womet-Tech cuts and I don't remember having an issue with the bolts. Hell I may have removed them both at the same time. I never read anything about keeping the engine supported in any tutorials I saw. Just do one side at a time if it bothers you. Don't be afraid to take that bolt out. Be sure you keep your "engine collar hanger A" (basically a thick washer) handy for when you ever wanna go back to stock or install no cut sliders.
 

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There is no pinch bolt on 07-12..

Also get a jack with a piece of wood underneath the sump to "support" the engine.

You can tell without this after you remove 1 bolt the hole will not line up anymore; putting jack on keep the hole lined up and less chance of crosstreading.

DO NOT lose the spacer..... There is 1 on each side and I'm pretty sure they are different length.
 

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There is no pinch bolt on 07-12..

Also get a jack with a piece of wood underneath the sump to "support" the engine.

You can tell without this after you remove 1 bolt the hole will not line up anymore; putting jack on keep the hole lined up and less chance of crosstreading.

DO NOT lose the spacer..... There is 1 on each side and I'm pretty sure they are different length.
Naw they're identical as far as I know. Engine collar hanger A is what they're called. When I switched from the Shogun no cuts to the Womet Tech cuts I needed those spacers and didn't have them. Well I tbought I didn't have them anyway. Turns out one was ziptied to the frame and the other was in my spare parts baggy. I ordered one from somewhere and just happen to find the ziptied one when I had the fairings off for a coolant flush just last week.

And I swear I've done two frame slider installs and have never had any issues with the engine falling down and have never used a jack or anything. Maybe just got lucky I guess.
 

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I've searched high and low for the answer. I have the k8 and what seek to be stock sliders. I removed the left (happened to be a no-cut) when I had the fairings off; but, the right side is a cut-style slider. It freely turns by hand and has a visible seam in the middle of the puck, but there is no visible point to remove it and no visible bolt. I have tried giving it a smack with a hammer, 2 wrenches to loosen the puck, but have come up nil. Any insights would be appreciated.
 

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I've searched high and low for the answer. I have the k8 and what seek to be stock sliders. I removed the left (happened to be a no-cut) when I had the fairings off; but, the right side is a cut-style slider. It freely turns by hand and has a visible seam in the middle of the puck, but there is no visible point to remove it and no visible bolt. I have tried giving it a smack with a hammer, 2 wrenches to loosen the puck, but have come up nil. Any insights would be appreciated.
Since there are no such thing as “stock sliders” you must have aftermarket ones. This here is a time when a clear, closeup picture would help tremendously. My guess is there is an end cap that needs to come off and banging it with hammer isn’t helping your cause.
 
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