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Discussion Starter #1
My 2004 was stolen and they broke the ignition switch. I have sense then recovered the bike, rewired the old ignition switch, the bike started and worked great. Bought a new ignition switch installed it, now the bike will turn over but not start. Cannot hear the fuel pump priming. Have checked all the connections on the ignition switch they are all correctly connected and getting current when they are supposed to. Checked all the fuses and they are good. Dash all comes on, the BAS was never removed from the nose so I don't think that is the issue. No error code blinking on the dash. My plan at this point is to check the spark plugs to see if they are firing, if not then my assumption is I fried the ECM. Any thoughts ideas as to what else would cause this? Or how to go about diagnosing it?
 

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the diode tells the ecm to turn the fuel pump on ONLY when it see's 9vdc not 12...it's to keep people from hot wiring your bike.....but it's only on the 03-04 ign switch - not the 05/06 which is what you probably bought
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hmmm that sounds like my issue. I bought an after market one from China... which is probably my downfall.
 

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you said it was working.....did they do the screwdriver trick???? if so just take the diode off of the old one and solder it to the new one
 

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To be honest with you for the life of me i cant figure out how they stole it. They broke the ignition switch and took the locking pin out so they could move the handle bars. They also cut the ignition wires coming off of the ignition switch, so I'm not sure they were even able to start it. I soldered all the connections back together to get it to run again. I replaced the ignition switch because i wanted to be able to lock the bike. I just run to the store and got a 9.1V, 5W diode about to go try it. I would take the old diode out but I tossed the whole old assembly like and idiot!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Put the diode in pink line post the ignition switch pre the ECM and no change. Might not be the right diode.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
got it! needed a 3v diode. You sir are my hero, thanks so much! Would have never figured that out without you.
 

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Put the diode in pink line post the ignition switch pre the ECM and no change. Might not be the right diode.
Sorry to bring up an old thread I have a 2004 and I am replacing a rigged ignition. Previous owner had a 9v battery wired in place of diode to resolve that problem but I got a new ignition "claimed" it was for the year but I have this issue. Now I am trying to figure out how to get the diode wires correctly in the right spot. Also I have 3 wires coming from ecm and 4 from new ignition. Sound right? Plug has 4 spaces. Anyways I cut the green wire on the ignition side of plug (green is ignition side-skinny light pink on ecm side ) spliced in te diode and it won't work so I flipped it and still nothing
 

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Sorry to bring up an old thread I have a 2004 and I am replacing a rigged ignition. Previous owner had a 9v battery wired in place of diode to resolve that problem but I got a new ignition "claimed" it was for the year but I have this issue. Now I am trying to figure out how to get the diode wires correctly in the right spot. Also I have 3 wires coming from ecm and 4 from new ignition. Sound right? Plug has 4 spaces. Anyways I cut the green wire on the ignition side of plug (green is ignition side-skinny light pink on ecm side ) spliced in te diode and it won't work so I flipped it and still nothing

Are you sure the diode is the correct one and it still works?
 

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Have a volt meter? Connect to the diode and read the voltage on the other leg to see what is coming out.
 

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It's about 10.4 v and I got a 3.3v diode on eBay didn't even realize it so again I'll order another and see what happens when I te it, I looked online on how to convert 12-9v and it says a lot about converters and large resisters that kill batteries and not a lot about diodes. Just wondering how is the 3v diode making 9v ?
 

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3v is the power that is absorbs "knocks down the power"

12-3 is 9v

Wondering if you have the correct diodes needed.
 

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To be honest with you for the life of me i cant figure out how they stole it. They broke the ignition switch and took the locking pin out so they could move the handle bars. They also cut the ignition wires coming off of the ignition switch, so I'm not sure they were even able to start it. I soldered all the connections back together to get it to run again. I replaced the ignition switch because i wanted to be able to lock the bike. I just run to the store and got a 9.1V, 5W diode about to go try it. I would take the old diode out but I tossed the whole old assembly like and idiot!
switch just opens and closes circuit my bike was same way twist them together and hit start if kill switch is broken but this is mostly just fork lock and opens power circuit im finding out how to make my bike back to normal don't like knowing that anyone can just start it and ride off but tested with ohm meter and my bike runs so i can verify a regular toggle on the two wires to key is how PO managed to fix trunk lock is a real pia too
 

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