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Discussion Starter #1
hey im pretty new to the site and want to get into racing so i wanna get everything i need. im looking at boots right now, does anyone know anything about the new SIDI cobra boots? and i have a shift vertex jacket, could i zip pants to it or do i need a full suit? thanks guys any other useful info would be greatly appreciated

Mason
 

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I had a similar question too, I want to do a few track days this season and would really like to find a jacket I could wear at the street and track for ample protection... Are there any pants recommended for track, that like buttercup said, zip into or attach to the jacket? Instead of getting a one piece suit right away?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
also i was wondering about gearing...ive read on here -1 and +2 is what alot of people are doing but thats seems like alot. is there a compromise so my speedo isnt totally messed up when i ride my bike on the street? thanks guys

mason
 

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Whats up guys!

You will need to register for this forum and post a quick introduction, but it will be worth it. There are huge write ups on everything you need to know about getting yourselves on the track.

Go here to read about the gear you will need

About the gearing changes, its not 100% needed, but if you do it you can buy a Speedo Healer (Just search about that here) to correct the change to fix the MPH offset.
 

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Congrats on making the commitment to make it to the track.
It is LOTS of FUN !

The best protection is a one piece full suit (if you're serious get the 1 piece)
2nd best is a 2 piece that has a full circumference waist zipper
Advantage of the 2 piece is you can wear all or part of it on the street
But it just will not protect as well because it can seperate, rip, tear at the waist

Get boots with toe, ankle, & shin protection
Get gloves with good finger, knuckle, and wrist protection.

And, of course, a good helmet

An inner suit or close fitting slick under clothes will help you get in and out of your leathers
plus make it easier to move on the bike.
Leather suits should fit very close and are cut for the bike position so that when you stand up off the bike they pull in the crotch a bit uncomfortably
So buy them snug in the store & they will conform to you as they break in & get more pliable

It would be good to try on several different manufactures of suits beacuse they are 'cut' differently

Spend your money on good protective gear 1st........... modify the bike later

Hope this helps
 

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Discussion Starter #6
register? did i not do it right? haha

Whats up guys!

You will need to register for this forum and post a quick introduction, but it will be worth it. There are huge write ups on everything you need to know about getting yourselves on the track.

Go here to read about the gear you will need

About the gearing changes, its not 100% needed, but if you do it you can buy a Speedo Healer (Just search about that here) to correct the change to fix the MPH offset.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
CNI thanks for the advice. so far ive got, an Arai RX7, Shift vertex jacket, and knox handroids. i think shift only has one set of actual bottom race pants. my bike is setup with some vortex clip ons, 2ct's, asv levers, braided front brake lines, front HH pads, some 2ct's (should i stay with those tires?) and gearing pending, i was thinking AFAM sprockets. not sure if i need anything else. i was also thinking about saving up and doing a track school or even a superbikeschool weekend ( which would be a little more saving ) are those worth the money?
 

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I like those gloves - esp. the palm sliders !
Get the pants you & the bike have everything you need to get started - a good start !

2ct's will be fine for quite a while.
you will know when it's time for race tires - the 2ct's will move around when they get really hot
Some describe them as getting 'greasy'.
But you have to be throwing down some really fast track times to get them that hot.
(by the time you get race tires you will want them on a spare set of wheels - save race tires for the track - use street tires on the street)

Your first track days should be spent learning riding techniques and the track before trying to go really fast. Speed will naturally come with time & training

Yes I highly suggest doing a track day school !!
You will learn so much more at a school than you will an open track day it is well worth it IMHO
You don't have to go to the $3000 school
you can find schools much much cheaper.
Most track day orgs have beginner classes that cover the basics of riding on the track.
Some have higher levels of training with more advanced techniques.
Just search them out - they are out there.
Road Racing World publishes a Track Day Directory once yearly with schools listed
When you get to where you are not learning from the less costly schools save up & take your summer vacation at one of the expensive schools. (some day I will have to do that)
I found I can only learn so much from reading (Twist of the Wrist 1 & 2, Track Day Handbook, etc)
I learn much better by riding with instruction than from reading
In fact the books make more since after taking a few schools
Getting video of your riding helps a lot too.
So many times I thought I was riding great only to see in the video (taken by the instructor following me) that there were many areas where I needed to improve.
later I got a Go Pro for the bike & would study my lines & performance. Amazing how different it looks between the preceved time while riding to what the video shows....like Hmmm...I turned in too soon there, wrong line here, braked too soon there, could have carried more entry speed here, should have gotten a better drive out there, etc, etc, etc. Then gone out & worked on stuff I needed to improve on the next session or next month at the next track day school (reviewed my videos before next track day)
I want to add this....it's kinda important to me...remember to take 'baby steps' don't try to do it all at once....just a little improvement at a time adds up.
I found if I push & crash it is a big setback & takes me a long time to 'get over it' & get back to where I was pre-crash. not worth it to me cause I lose too much time & is frustrating
Also.....There will be times you feel like you have reached a level & you can't seem to get any better.
Just be patient, keep riding and some day in the near future, all of the sudden, you get a big break & show a marked improvement...just be patient- don't push it - it will come - it's like it just happens !
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ive lived on whidbey my whole life, just came back from college in montana (btw, moving to montana was the worst decision ive ever made) not in the military, what about you?
 

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register? did i not do it right? haha

:crackup::crackup::crackup::crackup::crackup:


Yeah, you're fine bro. You don't have to register on that other forum and ask the same question again. Just ignore the post.

CNI Dawg pretty much nailed it. Good luck to you.
 

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:crackup::crackup::crackup::crackup::crackup:


Yeah, you're fine bro. You don't have to register on that other forum and ask the same question again. Just ignore the post.

CNI Dawg pretty much nailed it. Good luck to you.
hey Jonathan,

How did you find this thread. :D:ciao::bootyshak
 

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The link Cling posted was to a different forum. TrackTactics is a great place for people to learn and prepare for the track. Check out their library section.

How the fock does that work? A vendor redirecting members to their forum? That's essentially stealing members away from here & isn't that against site policy/rules. Pathetic & rude if you ask me. Sounds like there's a little loophole.

Ask the questions here because I'll tell you right now there are more knowledgeabe people here than there.


hey Jonathan,



How did you find this thread. :D
Shut yo'mouth mister!!! LMAO!
 

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Nemesis... Cling is not a vendor, neither am I... WE all come to this site to learn and gather information... No one is forcing you to go anywhere or do anything... If your goal is to gain some good advice you'll find it both here and there.... T.T. already has the same information readily available for people who are new...

No one here is being rude or trying to take anything away from dotNET....
 

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Sorry but I disagree. Cling is a control rider for them (or am I wrong)? Therefore he is essentially representing them.

And his post clearly redirects the new member to their forum. <--there's no doubting that.

That's like me coming in here and telling a NEWBIE to come join our website.


But I do agree this site does offer a wealth of information (but again more so here than there...think about what I'm saying...don't look at it two dimensionally).


Cheers.
 

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Thanks CNI that sounds like some pretty awesome advice...i will let you know how they go this summer.

Glad to do it.
Let me know if you need anything - will help if I can.

Oh..... pass on what you learn to another new rider(s) !!
That way we all help each other, promote the sport, & help make safer more skilled riders both track & street.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
oh btw....still dont know about the gearing. the guy i had bought my bike from kinda had stunt gearing on it. its like +4 on the back or something, but since it was almost time to get new sprockets i left them on there and now i need to get new ones. a guy i know kinda said -1 +2 would be a bad idea because on the straits the bike runs out of juice and in the corners if you dont have a precise throttle hand it can have a little to much torque. makes sense but now i dont know what to do...i was thinking just +2 on the back?
 

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I use a couple different combinations of gearing for different tracks.
The short straight, lots of tight turns tracks I use a 15/46
The long straight, high speed turns tracks I use a 16/45
Stock is a 16/43 if I recall correctly

with this setup I don't have to change the chain adjustment when I switch gearing - makes it quicker & easier

rule of thumb - change 1 tooth in front = changing 3 teeth in back

somewhere on the computer at home I have a gearing calculator
if you really want to get into it I'll email it to you

BTW - get a new chain when you get new sprockets

Would be a good time for a 520 conversion.

alloy rear sprockets wear more than twice as fast as steel so you will be buying 2 or 3 alloy rears by the time you replace the chain & front sprocket again
 
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