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Discussion Starter #1
So I put up a video a couple weeks ago on the maintenance forum asking about a cough my bike seemed to be developing while at idle.

Here's the link: http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=282980

Bike stats:
2005 cbr600rr
Just under 13k kms
Yoshi exhaust slip on

It seemed to go away for a little bit but I have narrowed when it acts like this.

1. While warming up the bike is fine
2. Once up around 180F + it starts to cough/misfire? at idle and below around 2-2.5k revs --> revs sit around 1500 but drop to around 1200 and back up pretty quick, sounds kind of like purrrrrrrrcoughpurrrrrcoughpurrrcoughcoughpurrrrrrcoughcoughpurrrrcough
3. Once I am passed 2.5-3k revs the bike sings awesomely and has no issues whatsoever up to 14k revs - haven't had it past that
4. It doesn't stall or cut out at all
5. Acceleration from stop is rough as well due to low revs

There is also a consistent ticking sound that increases speed as revs increase and it sounds like it is coming from right side of engine. Is that the CCT needing to be checked or should I be concerned about valve adjustments?

Things I think I can rule out are fuel lines, pump, filter, probably not sparkies or timing? I assume this because the bike is running fine at higher revs and I would think I would get similar symptoms throughout revs if these were an issue.

Could it be ICS, TPS, fuel/air mixture? I will be tearing the bike down soon as I'm getting new fairings from auctmarts and want to pull plugs, test some wiring and replace air filter.

Any thoughts or things I should be concerned about?
 

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by dropping in rpms from 1500 to 1200 does it sound like its getting choked?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
by dropping in rpms from 1500 to 1200 does it sound like its getting choked?
I suppose that could be a good description. It's like the engine sputters briefly then comes back up. Does the same when idling as when taking off from a stop until I hit around 2k-2.5k rpm
 

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How warm do you let your bike get before riding it. Has it been wrecked? if so how bad? If sitting still and reving above the 2k range does it still do it or only when riding?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How warm do you let your bike get before riding it. Has it been wrecked? if so how bad? If sitting still and reving above the 2k range does it still do it or only when riding?
I usually let it warm up or a minute or two before I jump on but I ride it quite lightly until its up around 180-190 F.

The previous owner did lay it down once a few years back. Mechanically it has been great until about 2 weeks ago with this rough idle. There is fairing damage and a bit of damage to the left foot peg.

If I rev at while stopped or in neutral it sounds ok, just not while idling. When I take off is where I feel the roughness in 1st.

It did stall immediately after starting yeaterday. I started again and gave a bit of throttle and it stayed running just fine.
 

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hmm. yea i hop on mine as soon as i see 98 pop up by the time i get to my road its already 120s so no biggies there. But 1st gear is the problem at low rpms? Once you get above 2500rpm in 1st goes away? the idling thing is throwing me.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah. When it's still cold the idle is smooth as is take off but over 190F it's rough. Ya once I'm over around 2.5k rpm it's fine. Shifting is fine too. Wondering if maybe fuel/air ratio is messy at operating temps?
 

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check your ICS and as well flush some injector cleaner through a few tanks.

If it is slow to pick up its the ICS and could cause rough idle.

A semi-clogged injector can cause all sorts of problems.

condition of air filter?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
check your ICS and as well flush some injector cleaner through a few tanks.

If it is slow to pick up its the ICS and could cause rough idle.

A semi-clogged injector can cause all sorts of problems.

condition of air filter?
Any recommendation on cleaner? Will seafoam do the trick? I had ruled out injectors because once I'm moving she runs along just fine.

I'm doing a tear down on her soon, haven't checked air filter yet but was planning on probably replacing that. I'll test the ics on the tear down too
 

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Any recommendation on cleaner? Will seafoam do the trick? I had ruled out injectors because once I'm moving she runs along just fine.

I'm doing a tear down on her soon, haven't checked air filter yet but was planning on probably replacing that. I'll test the ics on the tear down too
Seafoam I've found works the best for just about anything! Toss it in your oil too before you change it for a squeaky clean engine =) {not a rep for seafoam but I've seen the difference and I love the stuff}

And you're going to notice any small problems in fueling when there is less of it going into the engine. It's also much harder to feel a slight bog at 10k with the horsepower building rather than at 1.5k.

And it's only a $10 dollar thing that I recommend doing every few months anyways with the quality of gas going down as it is (atleast where i live).

Another question for you (along with the unanswered airfilter question :crackup:) is how does the bike idle down to that speed? It will tell you something too; if the engine takes a longer time for the engine to idle down the first thing you should do is check your ics.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Seafoam I've found works the best for just about anything! Toss it in your oil too before you change it for a squeaky clean engine =) {not a rep for seafoam but I've seen the difference and I love the stuff}

And you're going to notice any small problems in fueling when there is less of it going into the engine. It's also much harder to feel a slight bog at 10k with the horsepower building rather than at 1.5k.

And it's only a $10 dollar thing that I recommend doing every few months anyways with the quality of gas going down as it is (atleast where i live).

Another question for you (along with the unanswered airfilter question :crackup:) is how does the bike idle down to that speed? It will tell you something too; if the engine takes a longer time for the engine to idle down the first thing you should do is check your ics.
Cool. I'll get some seafoam for her.

I assume you mean if I rev in neutral? She comes right back down to idle speed but idle does bounce from 1200-1500 as it coughs/sputters
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I went and checked out our local bike shop and they recommended me some motul fuel cleaner. Tossed that puppy in on a half tank so should help clean any gunk out. I went for a half hour ride or so and the bike seemed pretty hot but I'm gonna chalk that up to the fuel cleaner for now. I was also riding in a lower than normal gear to push rpms up a bit.

Ordered a spark wrench so I can pull those guys out next weekend when it comes in. Haven't had a chance to pull the air filter.

There doesn't seem to have been much of a change yet from the cleaner but i've got it through the lines now so I'll let it sit in there for a bit and see how she runs later/tomorrow. If I have time tomorrow I"ll pull the air filter and check it out. Anything I should be looking for specifically with it?

Also any other easy tests I can do on the bike before tearing too deep into it?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just pulled air filter. Looks fine to me. Nothing is broken and it doesn't look too dirty at all. The filter box smelled like oil when I opened it, I'm thinking that is normal..? Put everything back together and started her up. Waited to hit operating temp and sounds the same as it did before.

I'm beginning to think more strongly that it is a misfire. I sat on the bike for about 5 minutes and listened really carefully to the engine firing between 1400rpm and 3500 rpm at different intervals as best I could. Once I pass around the 2-2.5k rpm mark it's very difficult to hear while moving, but while I was sitting there is sounded like it was misfiring, just very quickly.

So if it's a misfire.... its gotta be sparks, wiring, or..? Could it be injector problem or fuel lines still?
 

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Just pulled air filter. Looks fine to me. Nothing is broken and it doesn't look too dirty at all. The filter box smelled like oil when I opened it, I'm thinking that is normal..? Put everything back together and started her up. Waited to hit operating temp and sounds the same as it did before.

I'm beginning to think more strongly that it is a misfire. I sat on the bike for about 5 minutes and listened really carefully to the engine firing between 1400rpm and 3500 rpm at different intervals as best I could. Once I pass around the 2-2.5k rpm mark it's very difficult to hear while moving, but while I was sitting there is sounded like it was misfiring, just very quickly.

So if it's a misfire.... its gotta be sparks, wiring, or..? Could it be injector problem or fuel lines still?
A slight smell of oil is normal, if you see puddles of it then you may have overfilled and it's blowing into the airbox.

Have you had all the scheduled maintenance done?

Because when the bike gets hot and does that, it indicates to me (on most of the vintage bikes that I've worked on atleast) that your compression is low due to too tight valve clearances. It simulates running rich and will cause that same sort of "cough".

When you get your plug wrench, do a quick compression check and make certain to have the throttle pinned open and all of the other spark plugs out to get the most accurate reading.

Once you get that we can work from there =)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
A slight smell of oil is normal, if you see puddles of it then you may have overfilled and it's blowing into the airbox.

Have you had all the scheduled maintenance done?

Because when the bike gets hot and does that, it indicates to me (on most of the vintage bikes that I've worked on atleast) that your compression is low due to too tight valve clearances. It simulates running rich and will cause that same sort of "cough".

When you get your plug wrench, do a quick compression check and make certain to have the throttle pinned open and all of the other spark plugs out to get the most accurate reading.

Once you get that we can work from there =)
I have had most of the maintenance done at the 12.8k mark. Haven't checked the valve clearances though - the bike is only at 12.8k KMs.. clearance check looks like its supposed to be done at 25.6k.

For compression check I need some kind of gauge right? Can I just get that at Canadian Tire? My service manual will point me in the right direction for the procedure and I am comfortable working on the bike. Any recommended brand?
 

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Once you see the compression you'll know whether you need to check it. And yes, there are a variety of gauges that will thread into the standard spark plug hole that we have. A quality gauge does help in the sense that you don't have to worry about false readings (almost tore an engine completely down before I switched gauges) but it is not really necessary as most gauges will get the job done, mine was just rather old and beat up.

The way engines are designed is that the entire valve train assembly will grow and shrink with the temperature of the entire engine and the most prominent time where wear occurs in this system is either when you're running it out of oil and you'll suffer a catastrophic break down or when the engine is initially being broken in.

If your clearances are too close your valves might not be closing all the way hence, the low compression and behaving like it's rich. But there again, we won't know until the numbers are found.


And as you pointed out before with the ignition wires, just go in and clean all the pertinent connectors with some electronics part cleaner and that will clear that up. With that few of miles on the clock unless it's been siting out in the weather you shouldn't have a failure in an otherwise (for the most part) tried and tested system.

Do you have access to any sort of P/C or aftermarket fuel controller? They usually run lean with aftermarket exhausts and no PC but I've seen weirder things happen.

And last question of this post, have you checked your battery at idle to see what the charge is showing?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Once you see the compression you'll know whether you need to check it. And yes, there are a variety of gauges that will thread into the standard spark plug hole that we have. A quality gauge does help in the sense that you don't have to worry about false readings (almost tore an engine completely down before I switched gauges) but it is not really necessary as most gauges will get the job done, mine was just rather old and beat up.

The way engines are designed is that the entire valve train assembly will grow and shrink with the temperature of the entire engine and the most prominent time where wear occurs in this system is either when you're running it out of oil and you'll suffer a catastrophic break down or when the engine is initially being broken in.

If your clearances are too close your valves might not be closing all the way hence, the low compression and behaving like it's rich. But there again, we won't know until the numbers are found.


And as you pointed out before with the ignition wires, just go in and clean all the pertinent connectors with some electronics part cleaner and that will clear that up. With that few of miles on the clock unless it's been siting out in the weather you shouldn't have a failure in an otherwise (for the most part) tried and tested system.

Do you have access to any sort of P/C or aftermarket fuel controller? They usually run lean with aftermarket exhausts and no PC but I've seen weirder things happen.

And last question of this post, have you checked your battery at idle to see what the charge is showing?
Thanks for the info dude! Very helpful :).

I have no PC or aftermarket fuel mods as far as I know on the bike. Just an eliminator and yosh slip on... and some flush mounts.

Haven't checked the battery at idle yet, but I did check it about a month ago standing off the bike and it was reading over 13v
 

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previous owner of my bike had the same issue, took it to a shop and they blamed it on leaky fuel injectors. i swapped out the injectors when i first got it and that seemed to clear everything up, but when i was riding today i ran into exactly what you're talking about. thought maybe the idle was just set too low at first, but then i realized the bike was sputtering at low rpm as well.

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new note: started the bike up for a ride today, everything was going well until i hit traffic and then it started bogging down again ... tried to ride a bit harder keeping the rpms up and revving it every once in a while and it seemed to clear itself up. i think the bike just wants me to go faster hah
 

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nice try :thumbup:

But not quite hahahaha.

Was there any abnormal sounds coming from the engine? Slight rattle coming from the right side of the case?
 
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