[Sk8e_junkie]

So I rode my 600rr4 to work today and was worried as my Speedo/cluster still lights up but doesn’t cycle (multimeter coming today) and it almost feels like there is a misfire? I did notice some oil coming out of the exhaust… the bike was previously laid down at 40 into a guardrail. Rebuilt the front end and everything myself so I am mechanically inclined, I’m just stumped. Gonna rip it down to the throttle bodies again when I get up and quadruple check everything is connected but I’m 99.9% sure everything is. I always do everything with a service manual in front of me following each step.

I guess my overall question is if I just did plugs, coils, rad, injectors, front forks and rim, air filter, and some other little things I’m forgetting. What would cause the misfire?

on a side note I keep hearing everyone has SUPER bad corrosion issues on the 03-06 models and my headlight switch has been acting up. I have another harness would it be worth just swapping it out?
I’ll post and update with my voltages on this thread for those interested

and as far as the oil I’ve also been reading on here a lot that these bikes do that after being laid down? Can anyone confirm this? I’ll do a top end if I gotta 🤷‍♂️😬

 

[NewRedRider]

Before you go chasing down more rabbit holes the best you can do for now is run some PSA based fuel treatment through the system while you wait on your multl-meter. The meter will confirm if you have any ignition issues.

Any motor that is "rolled over" so to speak can get oil seeping into all kinds of other systems. It's probably just residual oil left in the exhaust system. I personally would not be concerned about just yet. Watch your oil consumption and continue to ride the bike for now. If it is just residual oil it will eventually burn off and stop leaking out. Do you still have the PAIR valve installed? If so, you may want to check the PAIR valve system for oil also.

The corrosion issues are probably due more to neglect and time then any subpar material or design Honda used. I have very little corrosion on my '04 even though it was stored outside for a few years in Alabama (high moisture/Rh). Preventive maintenance is the key. I've always tried to stay ahead of rust by keeping parts lubricated. Dielectric grease, WD-40, Yamalube Lubzall, or another plastic safe silicone spray goes a long way to keep even small electrical parts like your Run/Stop switch or your headlight switch from corroding.

 

[dannoxyz]

Do compression test. Engine may have some internal issues.

Also easier to troubleshoot and fix individual switches and connectors. Unless you bought brand-new OEM factory harness from authorised Honda dealer, there little chance that it's any better than one on bike. Might even be worse and you'll have additional troubleshooting to do.

 

[Sk8e_junkie]

Do compression test. Engine may have some internal issues.

Also easier to troubleshoot and fix individual switches and connectors. Unless you bought brand-new OEM factory harness from authorised Honda dealer, there little chance that it's any better than one on bike. Might even be worse and you'll have additional troubleshooting to do.

the harness i have is off a 2003 600rr with 20k miles. i had the engine too but i sold it to a buddy for his 03, and i have an 04 (same generation) so it should work. only actual diference is the 03 harness does not have 02 sensor plugs on it and my 04 ECU is programmed for 02 sensors to be present. Could i send out my ECU to get flashed so it no longer needed the 02 sensor or would i be better off buying an 03 ECU off ebay?

I have to order a compression tester and get back to you. do you by chance know what PSI i should be pushing off hand? i can look if not i was just curious.

 

[NewRedRider]

do you by chance know what PSI i should be pushing off hand?

180psi

 

[Sk8e_junkie]

180psi

you the man lol im gonna test those wires as soon as the rain lets up.

Gonna see if i can borrow a tester off someone and check compression. if not ill just order one, amazon should be illegal with how cheap tools are honestly. they may be cheap but if you take care of them they all last just the same

 

[Tzmike]

Harbor Freight hand held temp reader
15 bucks.
Get it revved to misfire and point it at ea header to eliminate the ones that read similar.
At least you can narrow to specific cyl

 

[Sk8e_junkie]

quick update: as far as the tach, **** it. im gonna make a custom one with just indicator lights and voltage readings (the voltages all change as they should)

As far as the bike running like ****. I completely removed my PCIII and the bike runs like a DREAM man. My pc was the issue for sure.

everything from the plug that goes into the tach to the plugs for the ECU to the grounds to the battery. at this point in time i think it is a tach model issue (there are 4 different tachs for the 03-06 models and NONE of them are what they say they should be) so im going to just do universal temp, rev, and (maybe) mph and use indicator lights for the rest. ill make a post about it eventually after its done

 

[dannoxyz]

you the man lol im gonna test those wires as soon as the rain lets up.

Gonna see if i can borrow a tester off someone and check compression. if not ill just order one, amazon should be illegal with how cheap tools are honestly. they may be cheap but if you take care of them they all last just the same

Check out AutoZone's free rental programme. Very handy for tools you don't use often enough to justify purchasing.

 

[NewRedRider]

That sucks that your PC3 appears to be the problem. The only time I had a problem with one is when I tried cranking the bike with the battery way too low on voltage. I'm wondering if someone had messed up the TPS settings. If it were mine I'd try reinstalling the PC3 and then recalibrate the TPS and run the zero map to see if the problem comes back.

 

[dannoxyz]

PCIII seems hit-n-miss. Some work great for years without problems. Others have memory-corruption issues where your maps ends up with incorrect values over time and have to reload from backup.

 

[NewRedRider]

PCIII seems hit-n-miss. Some work great for years without problems. Others have memory-corruption issues where your maps ends up with incorrect values over time and have to reload from backup.

<runs to check his PC3 map> With the known battery issues that these bikes have had I wonder if a lot of the PC3 problems were from the unit seeing too low of voltage. That's exactly what killed my old one. Only I caused it.

 

[Sk8e_junkie]

<runs to check his PC3 map> With the known battery issues that these bikes have had I wonder if a lot of the PC3 problems were from the unit seeing too low of voltage. That's exactly what killed my old one. Only I caused it.

ive been reading alot about the evolution of the PC in general and the PC3 was a cheaply built unit, that was basically the unit that made dynojet what it is today. ive been considering getting a pc5 or 6 with the auto tune module. supposedly if you combine the auto tune with a pc5 or 6 its constantly tuning itself based on AI mapping.

As far as voltage on my battery it is as follows:
with the bike off i sit steady at 12.3
as it cranks it drops to 10.2v
right after it fires up it jumps to 15.4v
this is tested as the battery with a volt meter with the leads hooked to the + and - of the battery itself. as long as your hooked to the circuit and the circuit is intact these are the readings right outta the service manual so im charging and storing power fine (kind of impressed my battery sat all winter untouched without a tender)

i was going to check the TPS and set a zero tune but something in my gut told me to rip it off and so back to as stock as i can. im still running my mid pipe and silencer (Akropovich but i cant spell for **** lol) and a K&N air filter with no issues as of right now. waiting on my headlight so i can start riding around and setting up my custom dash.

does anyone know the size of the pins on the gauge cluster plug? i want to try and keep it as stock as possible and saw a diy thing online how to make them stay and not contact and hold them in place

 

[dannoxyz]

Are you talking about individual terminals in dash connector? Or is connector itself not staying in place? Appears it's an AMP connector.

You can try to match up terminals and see if they're anything like ones found here:
https://www.corsa-technic.com/category.php?category_id=206
http://www.cycleterminal.com/amp-multilock-070.html
https://www.automotiveconnectors.com/search/for/amp/
https://motorcycleconnectors.com/collections/te-tyco-amp-connectors

 

[tary preisser]

PC5 replaced on warranty, was sending inaccurate/erratic TPS info to ECU.

Bike would go into limp mode randomly after a few minutes riding.

Once i understood where problem might be, easy to TS, plugged into laptop and saw crazy jumps when looking at TPS signal.

 

[NewRedRider]

with the bike off i sit steady at 12.3

Way too low. 12.6v is my minimum even though Honda says 12.4v. You very well could have done the same thing I did and fried the PC3 by not having enough capacity. During cranking is when it drops and that is exactly what I did. Only mine was around 11v.

It had sat in storage for several years and then I went to move it. Mine had a trickle charger on it but I didn't realize the battery was gone before it was too late.

 

[Sk8e_junkie]

Way too low. 12.6v is my minimum even though Honda says 12.4v. You very well could have done the same thing I did and fried the PC3 by not having enough capacity. During cranking is when it drops and that is exactly what I did. Only mine was around 11v.

It had sat in storage for several years and then I went to move it. Mine had a trickle charger on it but I didn't realize the battery was gone before it was too late.

first thing im doing on payday is buying a battery... we will see what that does. So the next question is what brand? or just keep it simple with the auto zone gold battery?

 

[NewRedRider]

first thing im doing on payday is buying a battery... we will see what that does. So the next question is what brand? or just keep it simple with the auto zone gold battery?

Honestly, the last 2 batteries I have had to buy in the past 10 years have both been Chrome AGM batteries off eBay for $30-40. I bought the first one in 2016 and it lasted until 2020. I'll also point out that this battery would still crank the bike at 12.1v. So watch your voltages. I still have a working PC3 and want to keep it that way.