So I took the project bike for a ride.

839 Views 17 Replies 5 Participants Last post by NewRedRider, 2 mo ago

Sk8e_junkie

Discussion Starter · 3 mo ago

So I rode my 600rr4 to work today and was worried as my Speedo/cluster still lights up but doesn’t cycle (multimeter coming today) and it almost feels like there is a misfire? I did notice some oil coming out of the exhaust… the bike was previously laid down at 40 into a guardrail. Rebuilt the front end and everything myself so I am mechanically inclined, I’m just stumped. Gonna rip it down to the throttle bodies again when I get up and quadruple check everything is connected but I’m 99.9% sure everything is. I always do everything with a service manual in front of me following each step.

I guess my overall question is if I just did plugs, coils, rad, injectors, front forks and rim, air filter, and some other little things I’m forgetting. What would cause the misfire?

on a side note I keep hearing everyone has SUPER bad corrosion issues on the 03-06 models and my headlight switch has been acting up. I have another harness would it be worth just swapping it out?
I’ll post and update with my voltages on this thread for those interested

and as far as the oil I’ve also been reading on here a lot that these bikes do that after being laid down? Can anyone confirm this? I’ll do a top end if I gotta 🤷‍♂️😬

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NewRedRider

· #2 · 3 mo ago

Before you go chasing down more rabbit holes the best you can do for now is run some PSA based fuel treatment through the system while you wait on your multl-meter. The meter will confirm if you have any ignition issues.

Any motor that is "rolled over" so to speak can get oil seeping into all kinds of other systems. It's probably just residual oil left in the exhaust system. I personally would not be concerned about just yet. Watch your oil consumption and continue to ride the bike for now. If it is just residual oil it will eventually burn off and stop leaking out. Do you still have the PAIR valve installed? If so, you may want to check the PAIR valve system for oil also.

The corrosion issues are probably due more to neglect and time then any subpar material or design Honda used. I have very little corrosion on my '04 even though it was stored outside for a few years in Alabama (high moisture/Rh). Preventive maintenance is the key. I've always tried to stay ahead of rust by keeping parts lubricated. Dielectric grease, WD-40, Yamalube Lubzall, or another plastic safe silicone spray goes a long way to keep even small electrical parts like your Run/Stop switch or your headlight switch from corroding.

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NewRedRider

· #5 · 3 mo ago

Sk8e_junkie said:
do you by chance know what PSI i should be pushing off hand?

180psi

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NewRedRider

· #10 · 2 mo ago

That sucks that your PC3 appears to be the problem. The only time I had a problem with one is when I tried cranking the bike with the battery way too low on voltage. I'm wondering if someone had messed up the TPS settings. If it were mine I'd try reinstalling the PC3 and then recalibrate the TPS and run the zero map to see if the problem comes back.

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NewRedRider

· #12 · 2 mo ago

dannoxyz said:
PCIII seems hit-n-miss. Some work great for years without problems. Others have memory-corruption issues where your maps ends up with incorrect values over time and have to reload from backup.

<runs to check his PC3 map> With the known battery issues that these bikes have had I wonder if a lot of the PC3 problems were from the unit seeing too low of voltage. That's exactly what killed my old one. Only I caused it.

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NewRedRider

· #16 · 2 mo ago

Sk8e_junkie said:
with the bike off i sit steady at 12.3

Way too low. 12.6v is my minimum even though Honda says 12.4v. You very well could have done the same thing I did and fried the PC3 by not having enough capacity. During cranking is when it drops and that is exactly what I did. Only mine was around 11v.

It had sat in storage for several years and then I went to move it. Mine had a trickle charger on it but I didn't realize the battery was gone before it was too late.

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NewRedRider

· #18 · 2 mo ago

Sk8e_junkie said:
first thing im doing on payday is buying a battery... we will see what that does. So the next question is what brand? or just keep it simple with the auto zone gold battery?

Honestly, the last 2 batteries I have had to buy in the past 10 years have both been Chrome AGM batteries off eBay for $30-40. I bought the first one in 2016 and it lasted until 2020. I'll also point out that this battery would still crank the bike at 12.1v.

So watch your voltages. I still have a working PC3 and want to keep it that way.

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