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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Stock 2007 cbr600rr with Yoshimura exhaust and a few other goodies

To be 100% I'm a safer rider and don't hang over 100 mph too often. I wanna change to sprocket to pick up faster acceleration. I was reading about potentially doing - 1 +1 and people said it's good. What's the best setup for acceleration?

Trying to get the 3.0 acceleration to 2.5 or faster if possible
 

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-1 front, +2 rear. If you need faster acceleration than that gets you get a liter bike.
 
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Any advantages of doing +2 rear over +1?
I guess I’m not understanding your question other than to say the -1, +2 gearing mod is/was extremely popular by those wanting a livelier 600RR. It’s the point that the bike is still livable rev wise in everyday life at freeway speeds. Any shorter gearing and you’re screaming along at 8,000 rpms at 75mph, any taller gearing and you are close to stock and will see limited changes.

You want quick acceleration, -1, +2 will give you that.

You should choose what you want, though, because -1 in the front is like adding around 2 1/2 teeth to the rear so you’d be adding 3 1/2 to the rear with your thoughts, 4 1/2 or close to 5 with my suggestion. Not a huge difference between the two.

Have you done any searching or previous research on the forum? Lots of great info on this 13 year old bike already on here, the gearing discussion is well covered so that should help you out info wise as well.
 

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I've done a few different sprocket combinations on various tracks. I've used the following:
stock front / -1 rear: mild loss of acceleration, seemingly wider gear ratio, mild increase in top speed
-1 front / stock rear: very slight increase in acceleration, mild loss of top speed
stock front / +1 rear: almost no noticeable difference in any meaningful way
-1 front / +1 rear: better acceleration than stock, moderate loss of top speed (best combo I've used for mid-sized tracks)
-1 front +2 rear: much better acceleration, tendency to wheelie, significant loss in top speed (better for smaller tracks)
 

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PeteAtTheBeach, so just +1 in the rear is not worth doing? I was going to do this just to get a minor edge in acceleration. I don't want to give up cruising and normal riding so I don't want to do +2 or change the front one. If 5th and 6th weren't so close togeather maybe
 
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PeteAtTheBeach, so just +1 in the rear is not worth doing? I was going to do this just to get a minor edge in acceleration. I don't want to give up cruising and normal riding so I don't want to do +2 or change the front one. If 5th and 6th weren't so close togeather maybe
He’s talking track riding gearing, but yeah, you’d barely have a difference with that small change.

If you want a little more added punch, go +2 rear or -1 front, not both, and it’ll be different enough to make a difference. If you want to just try it, the -1 front is cheap and easy because sprockets are like $20 and you won’t have to extend your chain as you might when adding teeth in the rear. It’ll bolt on in 10 minutes, if you don’t like it you’re only out $20.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
He’s talking track riding gearing, but yeah, you’d barely have a difference with that small change.

If you want a little more added punch, go +2 rear or -1 front, not both, and it’ll be different enough to make a difference. If you want to just try it, the -1 front is cheap and easy because sprockets are like $20 and you won’t have to extend your chain as you might when adding teeth in the rear. It’ll bolt on in 10 minutes, if you don’t like it you’re only out $20.
How much would this throw the speedo off by? ?
 

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Doesn't matter, just buy a speedo healer. They have an app you can use to adjust it and it gives you a code and tells you step by step how to set it. It got mine within 2 mph.
 

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