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If you're asking yourself if it's worth it to upgrade and or do proper maintenance on your suspension, it's a simple yes. Upgrades can be done as expensive or cheap as you want, but they don't have to break the bank.

I just finished rebuilding my suspension to better suit my weight and riding abilities, but had to do it on a budget. I'm only in the basic stages of tuning and the difference so far is amazing.

After watching some videos, calling a few shops, researching what specialty tools I'd need and the cost..... I decided to rebuild my forks myself. I bought all the specialty tools for just more then half what the labor cost was going to be at my local shop. I upgraded springs and adjusted the oil weight to compensate, I'm sure it won't be long and I'll be taking them out to revalve....
Special tools, springs, fork oil, seals and bushings, all for $300+/-

I bought a used stock shock for the back and sent it off to be resprung and revalved.
$65 for the used shock on ebay
$340 at the shop (rebuild, revalve, re-spring, including shipping).

So now I can do all my own fork maintenance at the cost of oil, seals, etc,, and a 12-pack. Lol

If you're not the guy that's willing to go into his own forks, you can still save a little money and pull them yourself then take them in to be rebuilt. Removing the rear shock is super easy.

I don't have a shop, and I don't have stands, so I worked mostly outside and used a ladder and straps as a lift. I did the tear down and initial cleaning outside, fork legs were assembled inside. I didn't have any help, one person can do this job with some patience and creativity, but I will say it would go faster and easier with a second pair of hands!

I'm not doing a write up, there's plenty of those around, I'm just encouraging those that might be on the fence.

** Lessons learned, things I'd do different*

I didn't have anyone available to help me, after doing it on my own I will probably get a friend to help next time, but no help won't keep from doing it, either.

Borrow a friend's garage.... the ladder worked just fine to hold it up, but it was in my way a lot. In a garage, or at least on a good surface where a head stand could be used would be my preference. If all else fails the ladder works, ya just have to learn how to work around the ladder.

Take pics of assembly orders. I got confused on which direction the pre-load spacer went, had I laid it all out and taken a picture of the assembly there would have been no confusion.

Be prepared for there to be a snag.......
My aftermarket springs were nearly 2" longer then stock. I could have put old springs and spacers back in, or.......After some research, and some serious thinking, I decided to cut down the pre-load spacers by about 1.75". This still left the "spring assembly" about .25" longer then stock, but .5" was as thin as I was comfortable them being.

**For those doing this the first time.....
Start with reading different write ups and watching videos, you'll understand the process and can get a good list of tools and hopefully stumble on some cheap hacks (like I did). Order your parts and tools, make sure you have everything before you begin. Take notes, while you're watching videos, while you're reading write ups, AND ESPECIALLY while you're doing it. Take pics or good notes as you disassemble so you are confident you're assembling it correctly.

I'm the type of person that replaces things that aren't worn out, just because I'm there. If I'm changing fork oil then I'm changing seals and bushings, regardless of condition. Bushings and seals are cheap, just makes sense to me, I've already done the work to get there, may as well do it all. But that's just me. Lol
 

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IIRC, for most Americans the CBR600RR will be undersprung. Preload will only take you so far. Getting the right spring rate for your weight will improve handling.

Oh, and the groove on the fork seal should be facing up. That's not shown in the service manual, but if you get itwrong, you'll quickly start losing fork oil. Ask me how I know...
 
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