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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Testing Kill Switch - 2015MY - which wires to jump? (bunch of pics)

Yet another "fuel pump isn't priming" issue... This is on a 2015 non-ABS...

Couple of days ago I was cruising down the highway and the engine literally just shut off. No sputtering, no hesitation, no indication of any issues whatsoever; just up and quit running. Roadside troubleshooting - fuses fine, all electrical seemed to work - headlights, gauge cluster, horn, etc., bike is in neutral. Starter would crank but bike never turned over, never gave any sputtering as if it was even trying. Got it home and I could actually hear the fuel pump wasn't priming. Again, cluster worked fine, no warning lights are on.

Had a problem about 10 months ago where I'd ride the bike, shut it off and then it wouldn't start back up. Flick the kill switch a few times and then I could hear the fuel pump prime and it'd fire up. Caught it on video at one point just to keep a record. It only happened a few times which is when I found out the kill switch issue is fairly common. After that, I left it on the on position and never had an issue again. I should've taken in for warranty work since it was still covered but I didn't. Shame on me.

So, the constant issue is the fuel pump is not priming. No amount of flipping the kill switch off/on has worked.

Started stepping through the sticky guide in here for troubleshooting a bike that won't start.

1) Power? - it's good - fuses are good, as mentioned previously, cluster works, headlights, signals, etc.

2) Fuel Pump and Kill Switch... I removed the kill switch, and cleaned the contacts with a bit of 150-grit paper but *barely* scuffed the contacts. I did not have any contact cleaner. This did not fix the problem. I swapped the headlight and fuel pump relays to test the relay. Pump didn't prime but the headlight did still work so I believe the relay is fine. I can feel/hear it click when I shut off power (with the key) but don't really feel/hear it click on when I turn the key on.

Next step was to bypass the kill switch:

Following these steps are where my issue starts:
As soon as you turn your key to the "ON" position your fuel pump will make a short 3s whining sound if the kill switch is "on". This is your pump "priming" and sending fuel to your injectors. If this doesn't happen bypass your kill switch by disconnecting the white 7-pin connector on the right side of the bike near the frame (next to the red 2-pin connector). Using a piece of wire and two small alligator clips jump the pins for the White/Black & Black wires on the bike side of the connector (not the switch side). This will bypass your kill switch and should engage your fuel pump as long as your key is in the "ON" position.
On my 2015, I don't have the black and white/black wires on the bike side of the harness. Only on the switch side. I looked at the pins on the bike-side to see which ones the black and white/black (from the switch side) matched up to. The black matches to black, but the white/black (switch side) matches up to 2 wires, both are brown w/yellow stripe and run into the same connector slot. I really don't want to just shove a jumper wire in the black and brown w/yellow stripe connectors and see what happens. None of the steps on jumping the wires mentioned multiple wires going into the same connector on the bike-side of the harness.

Anyone know which wires I should be jumping on the bike-side harness to bypass the kill switch for testing the fuel pump? I took a bunch of photos just to hopefully illustrate what I'm looking at.

I was planning on just buying a new kill switch to save the hassle but apparently there are none at any of the dealers in my area. I just didn't want to bother ordering a kill switch if that wasn't the issue and figured this would be an easy way to test it.












Also, I'm a self-admitted twat when it comes to all things electrical, I trimmed down and crimped a couple of U connectors with some 20awg wiring to make a rudimentary jumper. Just figured I'd post a couple of pics to see if this is should work assuming I'm able to figure out which wires to bypass the kill switch.




(didn't actually test this, just plugged them in the harness to make sure the U connectors didn't touch)
 

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Why not just check the switch for continuity?
Pull the connector its prolly the black and the black and white wire.

With the swith in the on postion you should have like .1 ohms
It should be O.L. with it off

Pretty quick test if it doent work the switch is bad..
 
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Or you could jump it. Should be the black wire and yhe black white wire on the harness that goes to the kill switch. So you know everything needs to be hooked up like normal and you would back probe the black wire and the black white wire. Or just cut them and tie em together..

It sounds like you dont know what your talking about check youtube on how to check continuity of a switch. Great videos you will learn alot. You will need a digital multimeter

I feel like im confusing you if so lmk ill explain it better..
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Yep, I don't know what I'm really talking about hence the reason I posted a ton of pics.

Thanks, I do have a multimeter, NIB actually, and tested the kill switch using the black and white/black pins. The readings bounced around a few times but I was consistently seeing .2-.4 Ohms with the switch on so it seems like the switch isn't the culprit.

I'd still like to use the jumper to bypass the kill switch to since it seems like an extremely simple means to test if the pump will prime at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Figured out the problem. Apparently I didn't check all the fuses I should've. Only checked those related to fuel/ignition. For some reason the BAS fuse was blown. Swapped and she's alive again.

If anyone still has an answer to the "which wires" question I'd love to hear it for the sake of posterity. I'm sure it'll be a necessary thing for someone else with a 2013+ in the future.
 

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you would jumper the black to the brown/yellow.


the brown yellow feeds the kill switch, but also carries on to feed the BAS, that's why there's two wires there. on the 07-12 model bikes this wire also feeds the ignition coils, i would expect the 13+ bikes to be the same. honda tends to wire all their bikes very similarly.


the ecu is looking for a 12v input on the black wire. so to force the "kill switch" input you can literally just put +12v on the black wire and it should go, unless there is another device (think BAS) tripped in the circuit.



you should look at a wiring diagram and get that multimeter of yours and learn how to use it properly.


test things on your bike that are working properly. read the diagram, decide what you would expect to see at certain wires or connectors, then test to verify if your hypothesis is correct.


it's very very important to understand how these things work if you are going to make educated troubleshooting decisions.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Thanks....

I took the bike for a test ride this evening after replacing the BAS fuse. I rode it around on side roads for about 8 miles. Hit 65mph a few times just for a moment. Jumped on the highway to do a higher speed test and once I sustained about 70-75mph fuse blew again. I was only on the highway for about 3/4 mi. at most. First time this happened I had been cruising down the highway for many miles at highway speeds. Swapped in a spare 10a fuse, fired up the bike, jumped off at the next exit and kept it under 60mph and made it home fine.

Seems extremely weird that it only blows once I hit a certain speed. Not sure if vibrations at that speed cause the problem or what. Grasping at straws.
 
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