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I heard some stuff about shaving the heads, for compression and stuff and am debating on doing this. Im in the process of gutting my intake and I have an exhaust. My question is, what are some not costly engine mods?(shaving heads, piston work, etc). I dont want to sacrifice reliability at all so any input would help!
 

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not costly engine mods?
These words usually cannot be in the same sentence. Define "not costly". Some people see $800-$1000 as cheap, others see $100 as costly.

You would be looking at a few k for decent engine mods. Maybe a PCV would be the only thing I would do to my bike with the exhaust and -1/+2 to smooth out the curve.

Track time, learning to ride the bike as efficiently as possible would be more beneficial and rewarding than wasting money on engine work.
 

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generally speaking if you want more power, buy a liter bike. modern I-4 liter bikes arnt much heavier than their 600 counterparts and some can be had for around the same price as a sixxer.

that being said motor work isnt pointless. it isnt cheap though depending on the extent of the build. however it isnt necessarily a sacrifice to reliability. horsepower is expensive. a bike right out of the crate usually has some compromises to fueling and exhaust in regards to emission and noise regulations so its easy to free up anywhere from 2-10hp depending on the bike, with pipes and a power commander running a good tune. anything beyond that and your looking at lots of money for marginal gains. especially if you arnt able to do the work yourself. its not the parts but the labor that will kill your wallet.

ive done a couple 1000cc vtwin motors with JE high comp pistons and some cams from WebCams. i ended up gaining around 15 rwhp after it was all tuned. i did all the work myself though so it was only the parts i was paying for and i really did it mostly for fun.

a stage 1 type motor build with a full system, power commander & custom map, high comp pistons, and a set of cams would be sweet on the cbr and if done right would be no less reliable than a stock motor plus you could freshen up the motor while your in their and replace all the bearings. but gaskets and rings and everything really adds up quick and then labor on top of it all if you cant do it yourself and your easily talking about a serious investment.

if you really want more power sell your bike and buy a 1000rr. much easier. although personally i am of the opinion that 99 out of 100 guys cant ride a cbr 250 to its absolute limit, much less a 600. then the guys who think they need a liter bike because the 600's are two slow are really dreaming. plus most of these guys have never set foot on a race track, so i would love to see where it is that they are at the limits of a 600 on the street. the fastest ever time at willow springs big track was set by steve rapp 15 or so years ago on a 749RS. granted that 749RS is basically a full factory race bike putting out around 135hp to the rear wheel, but still it is not a 180rwhp 1299 panigale with all kinds of electronic rider aids. point being is that going fast has a lot more to do with a properly set up bike and the rider on it than it does to do with power.

personally id invest that money in my suspension. really well set up suspension = confidence. confidence = fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
true true. Just was curious. But yeah if its a few grand for stuff like that, its not even worth it. I'm trying to keep my mind off getting a 1000 because I know I dont need it. The 600 is plenty fast for me so thats why I do mods to my bike to keep my mind at ease lol. I have a two bros, then the mjs cat delete pipe, along with a bazzaz i've been waiting to throw on. I've also been hearing about the suspension upgrades but havent digged enough to know what I can really do. But I agree with everything said above
 

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I've also been hearing about the suspension upgrades but havent digged enough to know what I can really do.
suspension is always the first thing i do on any of my bikes. it transforms the bikes handling and you will ride so much faster because of it. an ohlins shock with the correct spring for your weight and riding style is the best way to go for the rear. there are other brands that are cheaper and still work really well. and as for the front i would do springs and a revalve for your weight and riding style. the bike will work with you instead of fighting you. suspension is key to riding at an elevated pace. that and riding on good tires set to the proper PSI will be the best things you can do while on a budget.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
****, an ohlins shock is like 1500 ha. Not that I couldn't afford it but ****, thats expensive for a shock. any other brands?
 

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if you buy used then it would probably need a rebuild which costs money plus you would most likely need to change the spring rate on it which cost more money. better off getting a new unit and pretty much anywhere you buy it from will put the correct rate spring for you on it at no extra charge. penske and fox shocks are good. theres a reason the ohlins is so expensive though. the TTX is an incredible shock.

but the question is what do you use the bike for? track days? canyons? commuting? youll spend more money to get more performance out of your suspension but if you dont need as much performance you dont need to spend as much money. you can even get your stock shock revalved and sprung for your weight and have something that works much better for you than it currently is. and you can do springs in your forks for around $120 if you didnt want to do any valving.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
if you buy used then it would probably need a rebuild which costs money plus you would most likely need to change the spring rate on it which cost more money. better off getting a new unit and pretty much anywhere you buy it from will put the correct rate spring for you on it at no extra charge. penske and fox shocks are good. theres a reason the ohlins is so expensive though. the TTX is an incredible shock.

but the question is what do you use the bike for? track days? canyons? commuting? youll spend more money to get more performance out of your suspension but if you dont need as much performance you dont need to spend as much money. you can even get your stock shock revalved and sprung for your weight and have something that works much better for you than it currently is. and you can do springs in your forks for around $120 if you didnt want to do any valving.
Yeah, thats true. ****, nothing major. I'd much more rather set up my stock suspension for my weight. 132 pounds. I believe the bike is set up for riders that are 160 stock if im not mistaken. So sometimes it feels a bit stiff
 

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High compression cams!
Please explain. Cams can only affect the dynamic compression and to increase that would require cams with less overlap which would lower the HP of the motor.
 

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Mill the head .006", install Cometic .018" head gasket, clean up the ports, degree the stock cams, add pcv, air filter & full system & you'll see some decent gains.
 

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looking to add new fork springs

plan on adding new springs when I rework seals and what not, what brand would you recommend? Im 168 6'1 if that matters. also any particular fork seal kit better then the other? thanks this is my first home attempt at fork work.
 

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Heard fine things about Sonic Springs, Traxxion Dynamics springs, Ohlins springs. K-tech is probably fine too. Sonic and Traxxion are American companies so it will be easier to get the springs. Someone said Race Tech's springs are not cut to the right length and require some extra work. Honestly I am not enthused about Race Tech's street bike offerings much at all.
 
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