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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I have a 03 600rr. D&D Slip on, PCIII with map, and 1000rr Front forks. My bike was running completely fine yesterday, and yesterday being my day off i decided to clean up and adjust my chain as well as give my bike a wash since it was dirty.

I put the bike on a stand, cleaned up the chain with a brush and relubed it, tightened the chain a little since there was some slack then finally gave her a wash. The bike turned on perfectly while cleaning the chain. After everything was finished I went took a shower, came back to the bike to fill her up with gas and this is where the trouble started happening.

I turn the key, everything lit up, hit the ignition, it cranked over, started to idle very low then died. I did this a couple of times and same thing happened. This morning i replaced my battery, "it was long overdue anyways", and it started up fine. I then was gonna go on my way to the gas station when it just died on me. I turned it on again but i had to keep on giving it throttle so it would not die.

The Red oil light is on, I checked my oil window and there is oil in there. i replaced the filter and added new oil less than 500 miles ago.

I have no clue what is going on. Someone please help me out.
 
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if the light is on that means it's not getting a reading, or getting too low of a reading from the OPSU. has the bike been in a right side incident? check the connections to the OPSU.
 

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when giving it gas to keep it running does it sound like a rough idle? Sounds like fouled plugs...did you idle the bike for a minute then shut it off before you washed it? If my bike never warmed up before I shut it down it would foul.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
if the light is on that means it's not getting a reading, or getting too low of a reading from the OPSU. has the bike been in a right side incident? check the connections to the OPSU.
It was in a left side accident actually. One question though, what is the OPSU? I just got the manual from raydog and currently looking through it.

when giving it gas to keep it running does it sound like a rough idle? Sounds like fouled plugs...did you idle the bike for a minute then shut it off before you washed it? If my bike never warmed up before I shut it down it would foul.
After cleaning the chain I washed it, the bike was on while I was cleaning it. I shut it off, waiting a bit for the motor to cool, then I started to wash it. How would I fix fouled plugs?

Sorry if i seem really noobish guys, this is my 1st bike and I am still learning the ropes on how to work with it.
 

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seems like you might have fried your ECU somehow. it may have overheated in the summer heat. getting lights and weird idle etc... i'd suggest swapping ECU's with a buddy who has the same bike and see how it goes. i also agree that you should check the plugs (or at the very least make sure a coil hasn't come loose etc.... how many miles on the bike? they should be checked every 16K and replaced every 32K per the manual (they're iridium-tipped so they last a long time). i just got done doing my valve adjustment, starter valve synchronization and inspection of the plugs (16K mile service). valves were w/in spec, starter valves were WAY off and plugs looked good. I would suggest a starter valve synchronization. it makes your idle much smoother.

also, it could be your power commander has failed, so if the other stuff fails you may want to disconnect your PC and see how it runs with the stock primary injector connectors plugged straight in.

BEFORE ANYTHING- TRY TURNING YOUR IDLE ADJUSTER SCREW RIGHT TO RAISE THE IDLE! MAYBE SOMEONE JUST F'D WITH YOUR IDLE SCREW!
 
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It was in a left side accident actually. One question though, what is the OPSU? I just got the manual from raydog and currently looking through it.
Oil Pressure Sending Unit.



After cleaning the chain I washed it, the bike was on while I was cleaning it. I shut it off, waiting a bit for the motor to cool, then I started to wash it. How would I fix fouled plugs?
Depending on how many miles you have, you may be able to repair them. Look through your owners manual and read up on the Flooded motor procedure. otherwise you buy new plugs and install them.

seems like you might have fried your ECU somehow. it may have overheated in the summer heat.
Horse-radish.

starter valve synchronization ... starter valves were WAY off ... I would suggest a starter valve synchronization.
what the heck is a starter valve?
 

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the only reason i suggested the ECU deal is because my friend with an '04 gixxer 750 had this very same issue and as soon as he swapped out his ECU- it's been fine ever since....

starter valves.... check your service manual pg. 6-86..... the starter valves are equivalent to the idle-circuit throttle bodies... cbr throttle bodies are preset by the factory and cannot be synched. however, the starter valves / fuel enrichment circuit screws CAN be synchronized and so since I was in there and i have a vaccuum gauge- i did it. and i'm glad i did because they were way out. i'll definitely do it again when i check my valves and replace my plugs at 32K. synching them makes your idle much smoother so your exhaust note is super steady once you get your idle adjustment screw in just the right "sweet spot" which for me is right at 1.4K rpm.

as a side-note, i discovered that simply disconnecting and re-connecting the black electrical wiring harness input from the backside of the gauge display unit will reset the failure code you get after the sync, so you don't need to buy their cheesy wire-shorting tool.
 

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something very similar happened to my buddies 636. we ended up just adjusting the idle and it sloved the problem. id give it a try, only take like a min.
 

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I'm gonna have to agree with the oil pressure sending unit observation. Your oil light will only come on if its not detecting correct oil pressure. This of course is assuming that the bike is running. if you turn the key on the oil light will come on regardless until its started

Otherwise, you have an idle adjuster on the left side of your bike see if you can adjust your idle to make it run better.
 
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forgot to mention, there is no oil level sensor. if the level is too low, chances are your pump will start sucking air, dump all the oil out of itself, and set off the OPSU sensor. if you check the level while the bike is on, and it reads good, chances are very high that it's running with zero pressure.

as for the ECU... about as likely as a flat tire causing the problem. that is to say, not likely. now, if he gigged the MAP sensor vacuum line and it's low on vac, but not enough to send a MIL, that will also cause bad idle, as will a futzed with idle circuit or mal-adjusted idle adjuster if so equipped (2007-2009 are automatically metered and adjusted)

Thanks for the heads up on the Starter Valve Syncro GoFast! Can you tell me, what is the purpose of the starter valve?
 

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the starter valves are the equivalent to the pilot jets on a carburetor. they serve to allow fuel and air through the throttle bodies with the throttle fully closed (idle). obviously, when they're synchronized, giving the exact same fuel and air to each cylinder- the idle is smoother and the engine is more balanced at idle and when throttling on and off.
 
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the starter valves are the equivalent to the pilot jets on a carburetor. they serve to allow fuel and air through the throttle bodies with the throttle fully closed (idle). obviously, when they're synchronized, giving the exact same fuel and air to each cylinder- the idle is smoother and the engine is more balanced at idle and when throttling on and off.
Quick question on that... and i do not mean to highjack the thread, but rather gain a little more insight to the potential issue...

If the Velocity Stacks are varied in length from the factory, wouldn't synchronizing the Starter Valves based off #3 create a rich burn for cylinders 1 and 4? as i'm reading it in the book, that's the determination i'm getting... but it might not have anything to do with it.
 

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no, it wouldn't because my previous post was slightly incorrect. the synchronization has to do with how much vaccuum pressure each cylinder is pulling. yes, you are correct, the velocity stacks for 1 and 4 are higher than 2-3. however, i found that my 2 and 4 cylinders read higher values on the gauge and that 1-4 and 2-3 were in no way correlated. it looked approximately like this before i synched:

1----O--------
2--------O----
3-----O-------
4--------O----




i don't know how to answer your question and i don't know why you think higher velocity stacks affect the synchronization. i don't think the official Honda service manual would tell you to do something that makes no sense. the proof is in the pudding- the idle is smoother.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I'm gonna have to agree with the oil pressure sending unit observation. Your oil light will only come on if its not detecting correct oil pressure. This of course is assuming that the bike is running. if you turn the key on the oil light will come on regardless until its started

Otherwise, you have an idle adjuster on the left side of your bike see if you can adjust your idle to make it run better.
When i Turned it on this morning it was idling fine, 1500 rpms. When I rode it half a mile and got to a stop it just died. After that every time i would turn it on it would idle at 1000ish for 2-5 seconds then immediately die. Right now I am in the process of checking the spark plugs to make sure they are good.
 

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there is also the notorious regulator/retifier issue which creates similar problems.....
 
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there is also the notorious regulator/retifier issue which creates similar problems.....
your right, they really do. but other symptoms like not enough juice to crank over after shut down, or dieing while riding, unable to restart afterwords. low battery voltage while running would cause a low or crumbling idle as well.

and since he does have a 2003, that might be worth investigating.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I pulled out the plugs and they looked like this...



The electrodes are not rounded but one did have oil on it. I am just going to replace them all. Hopefully that does the trick.
 

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how's the gap? those look pretty rich. mine were much lighter brown. is your power commander dyno-tuned or are you using the online map? how's the gap? it should be .04 of an inch if i'm not mistaken. you don't need to replace them if they're ok! how many miles do you have? those MFERS ARE EXPENSIVE MAN! $18 a piece!
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
how's the gap? those look pretty rich. mine were much lighter brown. is your power commander dyno-tuned or are you using the online map? how's the gap? it should be .04 of an inch if i'm not mistaken. you don't need to replace them if they're ok! how many miles do you have? those MFERS ARE EXPENSIVE MAN! $18 a piece!
I have on online map on my Power Commander, it has been working fine for the past 18 months, I have never had a problem with my bike up until now. As far as the gaps go, they are fine. I have 23,000 miles on the bike.

learn to use the macro
sorry, what's the macro? If you are reffering to the photo's sorry, I just have a camera phone on me at the moment.
 
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