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Discussion Starter #1
Here's a fun pic of me just goofing off

 

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Discussion Starter #3
what is rule 11? I need to know what else I am breaking :p
 

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nice dude.... you must be really flexible cause for me to drag my knee, i need to have my entire but of the bike and have the back of my knee locked on tehe edge of the seat. unless im doing something wrong :S
 

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mr_600RR said:
nice dude.... you must be really flexible cause for me to drag my knee, i need to have my entire but of the bike and have the back of my knee locked on tehe edge of the seat. unless im doing something wrong :S
By your description you are doing a few things wrong. Just one butt cheek is all you need. If your knee is locked on the seat it should be on the side of the tank instead. You should also be able to remove your inside hand without upsetting the bike, mid corner. If you can't your body position is wrong and you have too much weight on the bars. Try moving only one butt cheek off and move your upper body around the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
NewRed is quite right. Truthfully I try to avoid dragging knees as much as possible to conserve pucks. I use it as a guide only, and I get low more with my upper body than sliding my arse off the seat.

Also I stay relaxed enough that i could take either hand off the bike anytime, being relaxed through corners is a big key to speed, also, use your big muscles to support your weight so that you arms dont have to do anything except throttle, clutch, and brake.

P.S. yes I am flexible, and I want to hear rule 22 now
 

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well i always counter steer with my inside hand..... so obviously im doing something wrong if your saying i should be able to remove the inside hand off the bars mid corner. mind you i only have 1 track day under my belt.
 

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mr_600RR said:
well i always counter steer with my inside hand..... so obviously im doing something wrong if your saying i should be able to remove the inside hand off the bars mid corner. mind you i only have 1 track day under my belt.
Countersteering is a short action: Pressure - release. Once the bike is turned, you don't need that pressure anymore and the only thing you need to hold onto the bars for, is controlling the throttle.

If you were actually maintaining constant countersteering pressure all the way around the turn, the bike would crash. What you're most likely doing, is putting your weight on the inside bar, and countering that subconsciously with a pull on the outside bar.

I was doing the same thing for a while, then we discovered I was "twisting" my body around the tank. That prevented me from anchoring my lower body and using it to support my weight.

With the balls of your feet on the pegs, lock both knees into the tank. Bring your torso down as low as you can. Slide your butt foreward/back until you find a balance point so that you are balanced over the pegs. You should be able to lift yourself straight up out of the saddle using only your legs. You may find that you have to bring your torso up/down as well as moving your butt forward/back until you find a position that works for you. Now, drop your hands onto the bars. Your forearms should be parallel to the ground, or even angled up a bit (elbows low). Adjust your torso/butt again until you find the position that gets you balanced over the pegs, with NO weight on the bars, arms nice and loose, etc.

That's your foundation...you'll build everything you do on the bike around that position.

When you hang off, slide a butt-cheek over, but keep your hips square with the bike...don't rotate around the tank. Move your upper body over
. A good way to think of it is you want to act like you're trying to "Kiss the mirrors". I know you don't use mirrors on the track, but the point is to lead with your head and get your upper body out there like you're trying to kiss the mirrors.

Now, drop your inside knee out (It should have been locked in against the tank up to this point, anchoring you in place so you don't slide around as you're braking.), look up to the apex of the turn, and when you get to your turn-in point, give the inside bar a nudge. It should be Press - Release. Get the bike turned and release pressure. Then start gradually rolling on the gas. You should set your entry speed so that you can start rolling on the gas almost immediately after tipping the bike in, and you should keep rolling on the gas all the way through the corner. If you have to stop rolling on the gas, or roll out of the gas (a good way to lose the front and crash), then your entry speed was too fast. Try it slower on the next lap.

At any point in the turn (after the initial press/release countersteering event) you should be totally loose on the bars. Wiggle your elbows around like you're doing the chicken dance to make sure. Once the bike's in the turn, the only reason you're touching the bars is to apply the throttle....there should be no other pressure or input on the bars.

Give it a shot next time out!
 

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tks bounce.... see whats hard for me is i used to be a motocroser. so im used to have my elbows pointing up but by reading your post looks like they should be the opposite..... i guess track time and lots of pics will get me into good body position. thats my problem. i have no problems with lines on the track but my body position. my first trac kday i was practising lines and braking points but next time ill have them so ill work on body position. is it better to work on body position doing slower laps? or should i go normal pace?
 

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mr_600RR said:
s it better to work on body position doing slower laps? or should i go normal pace?

I never worry about my pace. I go whatever speed I need to go to be able to do whatever it is that I'm working on. Don't try to go fast...try to do things right. When you're doing things right, the speed will come automatically.

I remember my first time at Streets of Willow with the Superbike School. My best laptime was like a 1:59 or something and I felt like I was absolutely screaming. Now I can turn mid to high 1:30's without ever breaking a sweat...no late braking, no wheelspin out of the corners, etc. I'm still dog slow compared to lots of folks, but the improvement for me was huge, and it happened when I stopped trying to set good lap times and started trying to ride better and more precisely.
 

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toly's RR said:
how come your pipe is croocked it looks like its bolted on sideways by looking at the rear tire
Mine is like that. I have an akra.
 

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My Akra is straight. I know some pipes like yoshi sometimes mount crooked like that on the 600 and 1000rr's.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I had the old arata on the pipe on the bike at that time, and truthfully it has always looked like that. I have never (knock on wood) put that bike down yet. I now have the newer arata on that bike with different shape and its perfectly straight.
 
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