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Superstock or Superbike rules?

I guess the only difference would be your ability to use aftermarket wheels. I think Superbike will allow you to use a lighter crankshaft also.

Titanium rotor/sprocket bolts should drop you about a pound of static weight and considerably more rotating mass.

Pretty sure aftermarket silicone hoses are a bit lighter than OEMS.

I doubt an aftermarket stay will be any lighter than stock, considering the OEM is plastic and aftermarkets are metal.

For that matter you could start replacing all your large bolts/nuts with Ti.

You could also remove the catalytic converter and have a shop replace that section with pipe. That will probably be your greatest weight savings aside from what you have already done, and short of a ti exhaust system.
If you have big bucks you could install an HRC radiator, and stator, which will probably drop another 3-4 lbs.

I'm pretty sure my racebike is a tad bit less than 400 lbs, but I've never weighed it. I am following Superstock rules, but also race in Superbike.
 
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Discussion Starter #23
Superstock though it may very well be raced in Superbike too. I like being the underdog. ;)
 

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Titanium bolts for the rear sprocket , brake calipers and any other major ones will save you some weight as well in addition wave rotors might save you some weight but before you spend the 500.00 plus dollars find out exactly what the weight difference is as I am not sure how much lighter after market rotors are then OEM . Are you using an oem seat or you have a seat pad you did not mention either that is also weight savings for sure OEM seat is not light
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I'll look into that but $500 for a set of bolts is A LOT. I don't know if I can justify spending that much if it's only going to save weight in the ounces.

I have a superbike tail which requires an aftermarket seat which is a lot lighter than stock.
 

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I'm going to be totally honest, there's really no point to spending money on weight reduction past what you have done already. When you can ride that 600 to its full potential (which most people will never get to), start looking at a 1000. THEN you can spend $$$$$ to lighten that bike.

Just trying to be sensible about the overall picture
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I'm going to be totally honest, there's really no point to spending money on weight reduction past what you have done already. When you can ride that 600 to its full potential (which most people will never get to), start looking at a 1000. THEN you can spend $$$$$ to lighten that bike.

Just trying to be sensible about the overall picture
Challenge accepted. :thumbup:
 

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I would do the Slip on before the Titanuim bolts same cost but more weight shaved off that is for sure you got the seat pad covered so you are set there
 

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Not sure what your Superstock rules are, but mine allow the rear rotor to be machined. Mine has been, and weighs about a pound less than it did originally. Front rotors may be swapped for OEM spec, not sure what that means, but it may allow wave rotors.

I noticed you didn't mention your chain/sprocket setup. Switching to 520 with ultralight rear sprockets will save some weight too. I think front sprocket should remain steel because of the force on it, but there are some lighter ones out there.

Another big weight saver would be to start swapping your fiberglass race bodies to carbon fiber.

A lot of my friends only run each race with enough gas to get them through that race, which saves a few pounds as well.

I'm going to be totally honest, there's really no point to spending money on weight reduction past what you have done already. When you can ride that 600 to its full potential (which most people will never get to)...
Considering he is racing, and this is a racebike, it is being used to it's full potential. Perhaps not on a national, or world class level, but much more than just a weekend ride in the twisties, or a trackday every now and then.

I know I can out ride the stock forks and rear shock on a bike
 
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Tubular race subframe with a battery box. Remove any unnecessary wiring from the harness.

Depending on your wallet, replacing anything that you can with titanium. Anything you can get in CF, get. That'll save you a little.
 

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Considering he is racing, and this is a racebike, it is being used to it's full potential. Perhaps not on a national, or world class level, but much more than just a weekend ride in the twisties, or a trackday every now and then.

I know I can out ride the stock forks and rear shock on a bike
There is a difference between HIS potential and the BIKES potential. I've never seen him ride so I don't know how close the two are. But just because he races it doesn't mean he is using every ounce of potential that bike has to offer.

Nemesis, I like the can-do attitude :cruising:
 

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Best bang for the buck at this point would be a cheap slipon. The stock can is a boat anchor. Plus the weight reduced is high up on the bike which helps centralize mass.
Get rid of the exhaust servo and cables while you are at it. You can probably get a muffler shop to hack off the cat and that butterfly out of the stock headers for little money as well. As other have mentioned, get rid of the chain guard, front sprocket cover.
 

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Maybe you have already sold that bike, but for future references, below is the bike I currently own, and it weights 371lb wet. I can take more weight off by getting a lighter gas tank, wheels, titanium bolts and probably that's it.

 
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