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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys getting ready to change my oil on the 03 cbr600rr I just bought a few days ago, I already ordered a K&N oil filter and am debating on what oil to use. Also how much. Looking at Honda GN4 just wanted to see what you guys use and like. Thanks
 

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this topic has been debated more times than the earth has been around the sun..... go read some threads, take in everybody's thoughts on different oils, and make an educated decision
 

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I used Silkolene 10w-30 from local shop. Anything that meets spec is fine. You don't have to spend a fortune.
 

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Go to Technical Talk and you'll immediately see the topic regarding oil.

I use Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic with OEM oil filter. If you want to know why, refer to the oil thread I just mentioned.
 

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Do you know if the bike has synthetic or conventional oil in it? I've heard of people having oil leaks after putting synthetic in when the bike had previously had conventional oil. I know the manufacturers, and I'm sure a lot of people here, will say it won't hurt anything but I've seen people have this problem as recently as last year.
Anyway, I run Mobil 1 full synthetic with K&N filter. I put around 7K miles a year and just change it in the winter. I'm not positive about your year bike, but I believe they all take 3 quarts.


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Coconut oil. Make sure it's the extra virgin type. Known to lower the activity of engine mites as a bonus.
 

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You're likely going to find a lot of different opinions on this topic; as previously mentioned there are a ton of threads out there already. Other than using an oil up to specs per the manual there is probably no "correct" answer beyond personal preference. For what its worth, I use Amsoil...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks everybody I should of looked for other oil related threads. Thanks for the input. The previous owner of my bike used conventional, not sure what brand. Anyway I decided to get a K&N Oil filter and Honda GN4 10 40 oil. Everything I've seen or read about the 03 600rr is that with a filter change it takes pretty much exactly 3 quarts. So I bought 3 quarts and a kn filter for about 42 bucks total which isn't too bad. Im gonna stick with the honda gn4 oil and k&n filter I've always heard to use the same oil every time you change it whether it's a car or a bike or any engine. I also ordered new sintered brake pads for front and rear, and smoked flush mount turn signals. Also I'm sure there's probably threads about this also, but what do you guys use to clean and lube your chain? I ordered a chain brush but haven't got any cleaner or lube yet. I have 80 90 gear oil I've heard that works good for chains is that true or should I just buy commercial chain lube or wax? Also what cleaner to use? Is there something to use other than commercial chain cleaner. Thanks
 

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Kerosene works well for cleaning. To lube, I prefer a spray wax because it doesn't fly everywhere.


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Do you know if the bike has synthetic or conventional oil in it? I've heard of people having oil leaks after putting synthetic in when the bike had previously had conventional oil. I know the manufacturers, and I'm sure a lot of people here, will say it won't hurt anything but I've seen people have this problem as recently as last year.
This is the first I've heard of this. I used to run Motul ES5100 Synthetic blend until I found out about Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic. Ran that oil on track and street for 56K miles on my 2006. I'm currently running the same oil on my 2009 for 41K miles. Not a single drop. What most people failed to do on oil change is changing the crush washer which may contribute to leakage.
 

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I've consistently used Amsoil Synthetic 10W40 Motorcycle Oil and have been extremely please! I made the mistake of switching to a 'cheaper' oil recommended by a friend; Mobil 1. To say the least I was appalled with the results because there actually was a big difference between the two.

I would highly suggest giving Amsoil a try! You cant really go wrong with Rotella or the Honda Oil either. See what you like the best and what works with you the most.
 

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This is the first I've heard of this. I used to run Motul ES5100 Synthetic blend until I found out about Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic. Ran that oil on track and street for 56K miles on my 2006. I'm currently running the same oil on my 2009 for 41K miles. Not a single drop. What most people failed to do on oil change is changing the crush washer which may contribute to leakage.

With modern engines and oils you don't have this problem. When synthetics were first introduced in the 70's they did cause leaking seals in older engines, that's probably how the myth got started. I think the occasional leaks you hear about now are engines that haven't been maintained regularly. When you switch to synthetic, a lot of the gunk is cleared away and the oil 'finds' leaks in some of the seals. I've never had it happen to me but I've heard it many times over the years.


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Discussion Starter #13
This is the first I've heard of this. I used to run Motul ES5100 Synthetic blend until I found out about Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic. Ran that oil on track and street for 56K miles on my 2006. I'm currently running the same oil on my 2009 for 41K miles. Not a single drop. What most people failed to do on oil change is changing the crush washer which may contribute to leakage.
What exactly is the crush washer? Do you have to buy it separately or does one come with the filter? Thanks
 

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What exactly is the crush washer? Do you have to buy it separately or does one come with the filter? Thanks
Crush washer is the washer on the sump bolt. I've not replaced mine and no leaks.
 

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@X-treme - I see. Good to know.

I have not replaced mine either but the manual recommended it. Then again, I don't over tighten my bolt to damage the washer either.

For what it's worth, the washer that the dealer sells is copper and it's a bit thinner than the one that came from manufacture. The manufacture washer seems to be stuck near the top of the bolt and there's not a way to remove it unless cutting it.
 

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Use any oil that has the following specifications (listed in the service manual)

1. Viscosity of (10W-30)
2. JASO T 903 standard of MA
3. API service classification of SG or Higher
 

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@X-treme - I see. Good to know.

I have not replaced mine either but the manual recommended it. Then again, I don't over tighten my bolt to damage the washer either.

For what it's worth, the washer that the dealer sells is copper and it's a bit thinner than the one that came from manufacture. The manufacture washer seems to be stuck near the top of the bolt and there's not a way to remove it unless cutting it.
Well, not sure what is up with yours or your dealer but:

- OEM are silver and look just like the one that came with the bike. I have about 15 of them as they work for many bikes and my dealers always sell the Honda ones to me which are the EXACT ones not he new bikes.

- If it's stuck on the bolt then it's compromised and not in great shape. It'll come off, you gotta want it but get the right one and replace yours as it's bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well I changed my oil today and put my new k&n filter on and added 3 quarts of Honda gn4 oil. I let it sit for 15 minutes and it's barely at the bottom of the sight glass. Everything I've read says 3 quarts is all it takes and it should be half way up on the sight glass, my sight glass is only 1/8 filled up. Should I run the engine and see if it fills up to half way or go tommorow and buy another quart of honda oil and add until the sight glass is half full? Thanks
 

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Did you run the engine at all yet since you filled it? Once I change mine I start it and let the engine run for a few minutes then turn it off and let it sit for a few minutes before checking the oil level (with the bike level as well)
 
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