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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I ride an '05 CBR600RR

I've had problems with a dead battery in the spring of this year(2006). It ended up being replaced by the dealer under warranty

read:
http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=46822

Now the bike is showing the same signs of a dead battery. When I start it, the juice of the battery dies right before the start and causes the dash to restart. It is getting worse and worse and it's only a matter of time before she dosn't start at all.

What causes a battery to die prematurely?

I have the following mods:
-VFX tailight
-Watsens signals
-Scorpio Alarm (with ignition and perimiter sensor)
-VFX flasher relay

What kind of testing can I carry out to determine the cause of the problem?
 

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the alarm is prolly causing the battery to drain slightly. You need to check your key-off draw on the battery, with an amp-meter that reads mA, and make sure its less than 30mA. Otherwise, I would suspect a faulty voltage regulator/rectifier if the bike is being ridden often, and not parked for a week or more at a time.
 

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indueng said:
I ride an '05 CBR600RR


I've had problems with a dead battery in the spring of this year(2006). It ended up being replaced by the dealer under warranty

read:
http://www.600rr.net/vb/showthread.php?t=46822

Now the bike is showing the same signs of a dead battery. When I start it, the juice of the battery dies right before the start and causes the dash to restart. It is getting worse and worse and it's only a matter of time before she dosn't start at all.

What causes a battery to die prematurely?

I have the following mods:
-VFX tailight
-Watsens signals
-Scorpio Alarm (with ignition and perimiter sensor)
-VFX flasher relay

What kind of testing can I carry out to determine the cause of the problem?
My Bike is doing the samething now and I have a 05.
 

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Test your rectifier/ regulator it is very possible that its overcharging
your battery which leads to a dead battery eventually
 

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I agree with DF and Moeman. Either the R/R is bad and causing the problem or you have a ground fault problem. My first thought was the alarm as well. Let's start with the battery. What's the voltage with it off? If it's less than 12.6v charge it until you get 13.0v or more. Once you get the bike running turn the high beams on and run the bike to 5,500rpm. Check the battery voltage again. You should have 15.5v. If the voltage is too low or fluctuates it's probably the R/R.
 

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My friend, calls himself the Honda man, said that a lot of the "05 RRs will eat batteries if you run the high beams all the time. I always run mine and haven't had a battery problem. My other friend though, red '05, is on his 3rd battery and we bought our bikes a month apart. Also, alarms need power to run...check that. If not, check the flux capacitor to make sure it is delivering 1.21 jiggawats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
TRIBALKING said:
My friend, calls himself the Honda man, said that a lot of the "05 RRs will eat batteries if you run the high beams all the time. I always run mine and haven't had a battery problem. My other friend though, red '05, is on his 3rd battery and we bought our bikes a month apart. Also, alarms need power to run...check that. If not, check the flux capacitor to make sure it is delivering 1.21 jiggawats.
funny guy.... I always run my HI-beams. In fact i added a relay to rig my low to my hi switch. I will check my battery drain amperage.


How do I check my R/R????
 

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I think running the hi-beams all the time and charging issues are a urban legend.

To check the regulator, put a volt-meter on the battery and check voltage. It should be around 12.6 with the bike off. Start the bike, turn on the high-beam and rev to 5500 rpms. The voltage should be higher than 13, but the manual says anything higher than the voltage with the bike off is normal. If its under 13.0V at 5500, I'd replace the regulator.

Again do the key-off draw test, and you never stated how long the bike sits before the battery is dead. If it sits for 2 weeks without riding and this happens, it's prolly normal. Get a battery tender if its parked for more than a week at a time.
 

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Downforce137 said:
I think running the hi-beams all the time and charging issues are a urban legend.


Downforce137 said:
To check the regulator, put a volt-meter on the battery and check voltage. It should be around 12.6 with the bike off. Start the bike, turn on the high-beam and rev to 5500 rpms. The voltage should be higher than 13, but the manual says anything higher than the voltage with the bike off is normal. If its under 13.0V at 5500, I'd replace the regulator.

Again do the key-off draw test, and you never stated how long the bike sits before the battery is dead. If it sits for 2 weeks without riding and this happens, it's prolly normal. Get a battery tender if its parked for more than a week at a time.
12.6v is too low. A good battery should be @ 13.5v when fully charged. So I would say anything under 13.5v on the R/R should be replaced. The SM actually calls for 15.5v off the R/R but few ever get that high.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Thanks. I will the test the R/R now.

I have obtained a draw of 20mA with Mr. Scorpio (engaged or not) and 1mA without Mr. Scorpio.

Why is there a small current draw with the alarm off?

I did the R/R test and it's steady at around 15V. (I'm using old school analog instrumentation).

What's the next step?
 

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indueng said:
Thanks. I will the test the R/R now.

I have obtained a draw of 50mA with Mr. Scorpio and 1mA without Mr. Scorpio. Is Mr. Scorpio the cause of the problem???

I will post R/R results soon...
What do you think? I would still check the R/R though.
Downforce137 said:
the alarm is prolly causing the battery to drain slightly. You need to check your key-off draw on the battery, with an amp-meter that reads mA, and make sure its less than 30mA. Otherwise, I would suspect a faulty voltage regulator/rectifier if the bike is being ridden often, and not parked for a week or more at a time.
 

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oops, the manual states that the maximum draw is 2.0mA which you are under without the alarm, so I would get a hold of Scorpio and ask them why the alarm is drawing so much. If you park your bike in a garage for more than a couple days, I would think about disconnecting the alarm, or you could just install a battery tender and connect it for overnite parking, and prolly never have a problem again. 40mA is the spec on most cars, and Im suprised to see that the maximum draw on the bike is only 2mA.

I was looking at the manual also at the charging system test, and it says the battery should be at 13V, but most of the batteries that I've tested are usually sitting around 12.6-12.8. Manual states that when the voltage is under 12.3 the battery needs charged. Start the bike, rev to 5500 with hi-beam, and the voltage should be greater than the key off battery voltage but less than 15.5 so... yah. :D

Im a tech at a Honda powersports dealer in Indiana btw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
indueng said:
Thanks. I will the test the R/R now.

I have obtained a draw of 50mA with Mr. Scorpio (engaged or not) and 1mA without Mr. Scorpio.

Why is there a small current draw with the alarm off?

I did the R/R test and it's steady at around 15V. (I'm using old school analog instrumentation).

What's the next step?
sorry i editied this post. I actually I'm getting a 20mA-15mA draw with the scorpio plugged. And I'm doing a good 15v when the bike is running @ 2000+rpm with the high-beams on. I notice the lights dim below 2000rpm just slightly. I guess the HI really sucks the juice. So why did I experience my dash shorting while starting if all my tests are good? Should I load test the battery?
 

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I left my bike in the on position for like 40 minutes one day, and it did the same thing.. click click, and the clock and trip odometers reset. I'd say that the voltage when cranking is dropping too low, because of a battery that needs a charge.. get a battery tender..

It's not going over 15.5 at all is it?
 

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Downforce137 said:
I left my bike in the on position for like 40 minutes one day, and it did the same thing.. click click, and the clock and trip odometers reset. I'd say that the voltage when cranking is dropping too low, because of a battery that needs a charge.. get a battery tender..

It's not going over 15.5 at all is it?
I agree with this assesment. Low battery voltage will cause the gauge cluster to drop out because the starter draws so much amperage off the battery. So if the battery load test shows the battery is good then your problem is what me and DF thought in the beginning. The alarm is probably not wired correctly and is draining the battery. Check your ground wires to make sure everything is hooked up correctly.

DF, I believe you when you say you find most batteries at 12.6-12.8. I think you just verified what I've speculated for quite some time about our charging system. My thoery is that repeated cranking is slowly dropping the battery voltage over time and the alternator can't recharge the battery 100%, even with a charging system that is whitin specs. This is why I recommend that everyone charge the battery atleast once every 3-4 months to condition the battery and keep it at peak performance.
 

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Stop using your high beams all the time. If you want proof make a little search of people with battery problems and see their opinion on using the high beams all the time. My 03 is on it's stock battery still as is my 01 929.
 

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Jay, High beams have nothing to do with this problem. My switch went to "High beams" the day I got the bike and 23k miles later I see nothing that would lead me to believe the high beams are causing a problem. I still have my stock battery and R/R also. Complete urban legend IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
well then... i'll just keep tending my battery and be on the look-out for more gauge clustering. In which case I'll load-test the battery to see if a replacement is needed. Thanks guys. I learned a lot about my bike's electrical system!
 
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