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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys, I've reassembled my bike and filled the cooling system so i though i would start it and get the system bled...... no dice.

My bike has the HRC ECU and loom, so no safety switches etc to check but i'm still a bit lost on where to go next.
What i've done,
The kill switch works, it turns the bike on and off, it cycles the gauge cluster and primes the fuel pump, fresh fuel in the tank.
I've checked the relays, i have 3 and they all test the same.
I have 12v at the plug that feeds the coil packs and continuity from that plug to each plug that sits atop the coils.
I have no spark at the plugs, checked #4 by grounding it and nothing, at all.

I'm not thinking it's the ECU because the rest of the bike behaves as it should, my battery has been sitting around, its been charged and reads ok, when i try to start it i get between 10 and 11v under load so it doesn't appear that a cell is dead but it recharges very quickly.
Can a bad battery turn the engine over fast but not supply a signal to start the bike?

I've checked the BAS as per the many threads i've looked at by bridging the outside connectors and when i do that the fuel pump primes so i'm assuming the BAS which does the same is ok?

Where should i look next? i'm thinking i need a tech with a diagnostic tool but if there are any sensors i should check before i call one i would appreciate the pointers.
Cheers
Paul.
 

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Sounds like a bad battery. Discharges and recharges quickly. After fully charging it, turn the key on for several minutes (no start attempts), then check voltage. Should be 12.6V for standard, or 12.6-12.8V for AGM. If you can't get the 12.6V, it's probably no good. What are you getting? If you're not sure about it, bring it, fully charged, to your local auto parts store and ask if they will load test it for you. If it doesn't perform properly with a load, it's bad.
A bad battery can have enough power to crank the starter over, but, at the same time, not enough power to power the coils/spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I found it!

The Ignition Pulse Generator plug was loose, it was connected and clipped in but not tight enough to make decent contact, bastard thing!

I pulled it, cleaned it and sprayed it with CRC 2:26 the conductive one in the blue can and it fired right up, no issues.

I have the ignition on now and am seeing what my battery voltage is after 5mins....

Now i need to know how to adjust the idle.
 

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Now i need to know how to adjust the idle.
What year is your bike?

On my 03 the idle adjustment screw is on the left hand side by where your left knee would be when riding. CW increases idle speed, CCW does the opposite. You want about 1300 rpms when warm
 

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I found it!

The Ignition Pulse Generator plug was loose, it was connected and clipped in but not tight enough to make decent contact, bastard thing!

I pulled it, cleaned it and sprayed it with CRC 2:26 the conductive one in the blue can and it fired right up, no issues.

I have the ignition on now and am seeing what my battery voltage is after 5mins....

Now i need to know how to adjust the idle.
You're welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Mine is an 07, i _think_ it should have an adjustment screw or something on the bottom side of the TB's between #2 and #3 but it doesn't appear to have anything at all, there is one screw that is filled with paint or wax on the throttle cam so i have to hold the throttle open and reach the screw from the LHS of the bike with the tank up but i'm not sure that's it either so i don't want to mess with it
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sounds like a bad battery. Discharges and recharges quickly. After fully charging it, turn the key on for several minutes (no start attempts), then check voltage. Should be 12.6V for standard, or 12.6-12.8V for AGM. If you can't get the 12.6V, it's probably no good. What are you getting? If you're not sure about it, bring it, fully charged, to your local auto parts store and ask if they will load test it for you. If it doesn't perform properly with a load, it's bad.
A bad battery can have enough power to crank the starter over, but, at the same time, not enough power to power the coils/spark.

just did this test, bike off, 12.8V, on, 12.4V and after 5min on, 12.32V
 

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A bad battery can have enough power to crank the starter over, but, at the same time, not enough power to power the coils/spark.

I don't believe this at all. If the battery can keep the starter motor turning the coils will be firing no problem.

If the voltage goes low enough to drop the starter relay then yes of course, because the other relays in the bike will drop as well (engine stop and fuel pump), but if the starter relay holds the bike will fire. That's why you can easily bump start a bike that is too depleted to crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It seems from 07 on the idle speed is controlled by the ECU, mine being an ex race bike has the idle set high, i'm assuming deliberately for a smoother transition from off throttle to on while leaned over, because i have the HRC ECU i can change it with the software and cable which i don't have yet but i'm going to leave it for now and see how it rides, it's just for track use so not much idling done anyway.....

Thanks for the replies guys, appreciate the input and help.
Cheers
Paul.
 

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I don't believe this at all. If the battery can keep the starter motor turning the coils will be firing no problem.

If the voltage goes low enough to drop the starter relay then yes of course, because the other relays in the bike will drop as well (engine stop and fuel pump), but if the starter relay holds the bike will fire. That's why you can easily bump start a bike that is too depleted to crank.
Sorry. I got this info elsewhere, and believed it. Looking I to it further, I can't find any corroborating data, so I guess I'm wrong. Thanks for the correction Wibbly!
Glad you got it figured out Cropduster!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
cheers mate,

Got my coolant topped up and adjusted my throttle play so i'm happy with that, sounds very nice, can't wait to get it on the track, but i have a way to go yet.....
 
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